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12-23-2006, 10:16 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Northeast, US | | | Buying bridge intonation screws
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I have a bass where the E and A saddle intonation screws are shorter than the D and G ones. I don't know why a manufacturer would bother doing this.
Well, I need those E and A screws a little longer to get my intonation from very good to perfect. Where can I buy bridge saddle intonation screws?
Thanks.
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Frank
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03-15-2007, 09:12 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by SBassman I have a bass where the E and A saddle intonation screws are shorter than the D and G ones. I don't know why a manufacturer would bother doing this.
Well, I need those E and A screws a little longer to get my intonation from very good to perfect. Where can I buy bridge saddle intonation screws?
Thanks. | I'm having the same problem. One of the scews on my bridge is extended all the way out and I still need just a litte more. a longer screw would do just nicely. | 
03-15-2007, 09:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA | | | I don't know where you can get the screws, but you could always put something under those saddles to raise them higher. | 
03-16-2007, 08:21 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: SoCo Rhode Island USA | | | Errr, Hardware store?
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03-16-2007, 01:47 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Northeast, US | | | I really don't think you'd find long bridge saddle intonation screws in a hardware store.
The answer is:
Yes, for some reason I still don't swallow, some bridges have E and A screws that are shorter than the D and G screws.
The thought is that in a typical setup, the saddles make a diagonal, positive slope line, and so the E-A lower part of this line needs less length then the D-G part. In reality, there are many variables affecting intonation, and you really can have situations where you want those E and A saddles extended closer towards the nut than those screws will allow.
Anyway, some suppliers Do sell saddles+screws separately, so you can buy two to replace the two shorter ones on the bridge.
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Frank
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03-22-2007, 10:00 PM
| | | http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attach...1&d=1174621653
This is a picture of the bass I'm talking about. As you can see the D string is adjusted all the way out.
I have been playing for 20 years and I have several basses that I have set up myself and this is the only one that i have this problem with.
All the other strings on this bass are in perfect intonation except the D And its still needs a couple more turns. It's almost there but not quite. Unfortunatly the screw has no more adjustment.
Does any one know why its like this? The action is set up fairly normal and the neck has the average amount of relief.
Last edited by Booneman : 03-27-2007 at 05:11 PM.
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03-23-2007, 06:28 AM
| | | | The problem is at the nut. The string is not breaking at the bridge edge of the nut. Think of it this way. The slot that the string is sitting in should be flat and ramped slightly down toward the tuning machine. Instead of having a flat bottom relative to the plane of the string, this nut has a hump in it somewhere that is causing the string to break somewhere in the ramp rather than the front. If you have nut files it is and easy fix. In lieu of nut files, take it to a pro and they will straighten (literally) your nut out in short order. | 
03-23-2007, 02:26 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 202dy The problem is at the nut. The string is not breaking at the bridge edge of the nut. Think of it this way. The slot that the string is sitting in should be flat and ramped slightly down toward the tuning machine. Instead of having a flat bottom relative to the plane of the string, this nut has a hump in it somewhere that is causing the string to break somewhere in the ramp rather than the front. If you have nut files it is and easy fix. In lieu of nut files, take it to a pro and they will straighten (literally) your nut out in short order. | Thanks! I hadn't thought of that! Is any body else having this problem? | 
03-23-2007, 03:16 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Northeast, US | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Booneman Thanks! I hadn't thought of that! Is any body else having this problem? | Yes - thus, the purpose of the original thread.
I definitely learned something. The explanation of this being at the nut makes total sense.
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Frank
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03-23-2007, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by SBassman Yes - thus, the purpose of the original thread.
I definitely learned something. The explanation of this being at the nut makes total sense. | Of course I knew you were having this problem SBassman. I was wondering if others had run into the same thing.
upon closer inspection of the nut on this bass, I found that my strings are a larger gauge than intended for this nut and a couple of strings were not seated all the way.  | 
03-26-2007, 06:43 PM
|  | just a BassGuy! Endorsing Joiner & Ben Lindsey Basses - Maker: XB Custom Cables | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Twin Cities, MN | | | If it is the size (6-32) that works in a Fender style saddle I can help you. I have a bunch of longer (3/4) screws - BLACK finish with a HEX SOCKET Drive (sometimes called Allen) with the proper oval point.
I had to do this sub on my early 80's solid brass Fender bridges and needed to buy 100...but I'm in the screw-biz by day, so the cost was minimal.
PM me and we can work something out.
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