As mentioned previously, fixing the crack is easy. Here is a few pics of a similar repair I did recently on a Gibson Les Paul (VERY common repair on Gibson headstocks btw...), and your local Luthier / Guitar Tech will probably follow the same process to repair this crack on your new Aria.
Before, simple crack, guitar still holds tune:
Using glue syringes from StewMac, I mixed original Titebond about 9:1 with water to lower the viscosity just a wee bit and injected it into the crack in multiple spots all along the crack until I got a small bit of glue coming out of the crack:
And then clamping it down:
You'll notice in this last pic that I like to put some type of thin, dense foam between the clamping block and the headstock or neck. This serves two purposes; one to protect the finish of the headstock and neck, and two to keep the glue that squeezes out of the crack from sticking to the clamping blocks, which would glue them to the headstock which would not be good! In this pic I've already wiped off the very small amount of glue that squeezed out of the crack.
It is important to put enough glue in that you do get some squeeze out when you apply clamping pressure, otherwise the crack could be glue starved and might come apart again the the future. I've had another Les Paul in recently that had this problem. It was repaired the first time somewhere else and came apart 2 weeks later. It ended up in my shop for the second repair attempt and it looked like there wasn't any glue in there at all.
Oh, and for clamping blocks on a crack in the neck like yours, the rear clamping block should be carved out hollow to pretty closely match the neck profile. And don't apply TOO much clamping pressure... you could crush some of the wood fibers and / or squeeze ALL the glue out of the crack leaving a glue starved repair.
I like to let these headstock/neck crack repairs sit with the clamps on for 3 days or so just because, then after I take the clamps off I let it set for another 4-5 days just to really ensure the glue is dried and set.
And, as mentioned above, the real work begins to blend the finish over the crack so as to keep out moisture, and make it impossible to feel it under your hands. For newer poly type finishes, I like to use CA to seal the outside of the crack in the finish. With a lacquer (nitro) finish you simply use the lacquer burn in process. This takes time to fill the crack in the finish, sand it all down level and buff it out properly.
I'd suggest talking to a few local repair shops and see which one sounds like they know what they're doing and have them do it.
