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  #1  
Old 04-22-2010, 05:33 PM
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Can this be fixed?

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Check out the distance of the low B string at the nut and at the end of the neck. Same thing with the high C string. Is this a nut issue or a bridge issue? I certainly hope not a neck issue. Can it be fixed?
BTW it's a Dimavery SB 526 bass which I bought through a friend in Germany and only noticed this problem on the pic since I am still waiting for it to arrive.

Last edited by Labi : 06-14-2011 at 06:22 AM.
  #2  
Old 04-22-2010, 06:19 PM
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If it's a bolt-on neck then yes it can be fixed quite easily. Just loosen the neck bolts slightly (by 1/4 or 1/2 turn) and then shift the neck until the strings are aligned properly. Then tighten the neck bolts and you're done.
  #3  
Old 04-22-2010, 11:21 PM
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Hi.

^+1.

However, if the bass in question is a neck-through, it's a bit more difficult.

But it sure can be done, by moving the bridges.

Regards
Sam
  #4  
Old 04-23-2010, 12:34 AM
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The bass seems to be bolt-on... But, I wonder why they chose to misalign both the bridge pieces and the strings at nut... I would send it back, if it turns out to have the same prob (not sure if the pictured bass is the one you´re getting)... Might be costly to repair...
  #5  
Old 04-23-2010, 12:43 AM
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Looks like the neck slided a bit on the left, nothing bad.
  #6  
Old 04-23-2010, 01:17 AM
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If this is a bolt on, you will not have any trouble realigning the neck. However, for neck-through you're going to need an expert luthier, or lots of return postage. Check the nut, too.
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  #7  
Old 04-23-2010, 01:32 AM
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Thank you all for your replies. Yes the bass is bolt on (6 screws) and it is the actual one that I'm getting. I assume that this happened during the transportation since it was shipped in that stupid cheap card box. I will try to shift the neck as soon as I get it, but looks like the nut has to be changed as well. Maybe the single bridges have to be moved a bit as well. All in all I'm quite relieved after reading these replies. Thank you all once again.
  #8  
Old 04-23-2010, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Carr View Post
If this is a bolt on, you will not have any trouble realigning the neck.
Thanks. When you say realigning the neck are you talking about the method mentioned above?

Update:
Here's a photo of the bass from the site where I bought it. It seems that it has the same issue. So, either all of them have this problem or the bass in this pic is the same on that they sent me. How odd is that!!


Last edited by Labi : 04-23-2010 at 02:09 AM.
  #9  
Old 04-23-2010, 08:09 AM
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Yes, here is how I do it on a P-bass or Jazz. It probably applies to your bass, assuming it is a bolt-on.

1) Lay the bass on a thick towel on a stable work surface
2) Loosen strings so that there is about 1/4 normal string tension
3) Flip the bass over (pickups on the table)
4) Using a correctly sized phillips head screwdriver, slightly loosen the neck screws (1/2 turn, more or less).
Be careful not to booger the screwheads!!!
5) Pick up the bass
6) Holding the bass under your right arm with the "output jack edge" of body resting on the towel and perpendicular to the table, grab the lower horn firmly with your right hand and the neck with your left.
7) Sharply jerk upward on the neck while pulling down on the horn to reposition the neck in the pocket. Note: you might need to "jerk up" with the bass flipped (gripping the upper horn with your right hand) to get the movement in the direction you need. Check for correct position/alignment.
8) Retighten neck screws, tune, and re-check.
9) Repeat from step one, if needed.

Once it is right, it should stay put. If it doesn't, then consider a thin shim. Many have found that a slice of a paper matchbook cover or business card works well. You don't need much. All the shim is really doing is just tightening the pocket, not actually centering the neck. You still need to center it as described. Rather than use measurement, I use eye and feel. Hope this helps!!!
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  #10  
Old 04-23-2010, 10:40 AM
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Jim, thank You sir. I will save these instructions and apply as soon as the bass arrives. Will post results.
  #11  
Old 04-23-2010, 03:16 PM
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Wow, "Jerk" upward? Seriously?

The only time I have ever had to do this I took all the screws out, set the neck in the pocket correctly and evenly turned the screws back in. I realize this may not work on all misaligned necks, but it seems to me that any neck it wouldn't work on would suffer some damage to the screws and/or screw holes if you just loosened them and jerked the neck into place.

Of course I'm just some guy and not a professional luthier so......
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  #12  
Old 04-24-2010, 04:09 AM
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Now I'm confused!!!

Floyd Eye I appreciate your input which BTW is a very valid one. I too was very sceptical about this method, but since people who are suggesting it have done it in the past with results, I tend to trust them. While of course still hoping for more suggestions especially from someone who is a pro in building and repair.


Update:

I've decided to try it on another bass first, so I checked my Aria Pro which I haven't played in a long time, and it had the same issue but slightly less. Here are two pics to show the results. I had to loosen the bolts more than it was suggested here tho'. The results are obvious aren't they.
So, thank You testing1two, Jim Carr and everybody else who replied on this thread.

Before:


After:

Last edited by Labi : 06-14-2011 at 06:22 AM.
  #13  
Old 04-24-2010, 06:40 AM
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I was thinking that with only the picture it may just be an optical illusion.
  #14  
Old 04-24-2010, 06:43 AM
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Like I said, I am not a professional luthier. I'm glad it worked for you. I have to say, I would have SERIOUS reservations about doing any kind of "Jerking" on an expensive instrument. Just me.
Jerking the neck with the screws still attached will certainly wallow out holes and/or bend screws. I am a professional carpenter and you don't need to be to realize this fact.
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  #15  
Old 04-24-2010, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvertones View Post
I was thinking that with only the picture it may just be an optical illusion.
That's what I was thinking too, especially if it has really high action the B string would look like that from the angle the picture is taken.
  #16  
Old 07-20-2010, 07:00 AM
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Hi all

Sorry for bringing an old thread back to life.
The earlier mentioned bass has finally arrived today and I found out that the bridge pieces need to be repositioned and the nut needs to be replaced. There are no neck issues. Here's a pic of the routing underneath the bridge pieces, and a pic of the nut. I'm not worried about the nut since I believe I can make a new one, but what worries me is the bridge. It has to go to the right for a milimetre or so. I was thinking of filling the actual holes and do a new routing. But that sounds quite daring. I might also leave the routing as it is and just ad a milimeter to the right of each hole with sanding paper. Any advice would be helpful.
Did I mention that the bridge is made out of 6 single pieces.

Last edited by Labi : 06-14-2011 at 06:22 AM.
  #17  
Old 07-20-2010, 08:43 AM
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Hi.

Oh crap.

The nut is a no-brainer of course.

Moving the bridges can be done as You described, but that's a lot of work right there.

Unless You're already attached to this bass or you got a killer deal (because of the defects) one word comes to my mind: Warranty. Send it back.

If I was in Your shoes and wanted to keep the bass, I'd probably halve the misalignment between moving the neck and filing offset grooves on the saddles.
Or I'd trim the neck pocket to allow more sideways movement and leave the saddles alone.

Regards
Sam
  #18  
Old 07-20-2010, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd Eye View Post
Like I said, I am not a professional luthier. I'm glad it worked for you. I have to say, I would have SERIOUS reservations about doing any kind of "Jerking" on an expensive instrument. Just me.
I absolutely agree. GENTLE force, applied gradually, is plenty to shift a neck. Jerking can crack the wood at the side of the neck pocket, take the adjustment far past the point you need it, or possibly enlarge screw holes.

It's really not difficult to re-align the neck on a bolt-on. Aside from the "jerking" aspect I think the process outlined is OK.

I'm not seeing the problem with the bridge. 1mm ought to be something you can live with. I doubt it's possible for most people to locate a bridge closer than 1mm +/- of a desired location. (I'm sure I will be corrected if this is in error.)
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Last edited by Pilgrim : 07-20-2010 at 09:42 AM.
  #19  
Old 07-20-2010, 08:22 PM
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aligning a bolt-on neck is no big deal, and takes even less steps than mentioned so far;

(while still tuned to pitch):

loosen the screws a quarter turn

push (don't "jerk") the neck over until it's lined up

re-tighten screws. done.
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  #20  
Old 07-20-2010, 09:10 PM
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Wrong cut nut and wrongly positioned bridges? I'd send it back; it's bad workmanship.
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