Can I fill/recut a *brass* nut slot using crazy glue & baking soda??

srsteve · #1 09-16-2010, 01:37 PM

I've done this successfully on Corain and plastic nuts but not sure if it would adhere to the brass? Yes I know it would look stupid, so do I

Thanks

FunkMetalBass · #2 09-16-2010, 01:55 PM

It can probably be done, but it will be a weak joint. You'd be better off starting over.

millsbass5 · #3 09-16-2010, 02:15 PM

If you don't want to (or can't replace the whole nut),I would suggest getting it filled in by using a method of welding called,"brazing".
Brazing,is basically using a brass rod,preferably with flux (on the rod),it's MUCH easier to work with,and it will also adhere better to the nut (in your case),along with a small torch to heat the rod AND the nut,just enough for the brass to adhere to the nut.

If you get someone that's good with a torch (and,also mechanically inclined),and has some knowledge about metals (HINT: A welder!),it can be done without it even looking like it's been worked on.

Just my 2 cents...

Zooberwerx · #4 09-16-2010, 02:18 PM

How badly overcut is it? Two addt'l options:

*Remove the nut and insert a beer can aluminum shim. Its near-perfect in terms of thickness.

*Remove the nut and glue a thin hardwood shim to the bottom (my wife has hardwood rectangles in her studio). Once the glue has cured, run the base across a sheet of med. grit sandpaper on a flat surface. This "eraser" motion will tweak it to the desired thickness. Check progress frequently.

Riis

srsteve · #5 09-16-2010, 07:29 PM

Hmmm, don't know about brazing although it does make sense. If I can remove the nut to shim it, I might as well just replace it with bone. Food for thought though, thanks.

walterw · #6 09-16-2010, 09:06 PM

unless you have one of those wierd "tension-free neck" arrangements where the brass nut is integral with internal brass supports in the neck, you can remove it. (holding a soldering iron on it is an easy way to soften the glue and finish holding it in.)

at that point, shimming it, reinstalling it, and re-filing the slots is a heck of a lot easier than making a new one.

JLS · #7 09-17-2010, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by srsteve

I've done this successfully on Corain and plastic nuts but not sure if it would adhere to the brass? Yes I know it would look stupid, so do I

Thanks

You're screwed. Best thing to do would be to pull the nut, shim underneath, recut as necessary.

JLS · #8 09-17-2010, 12:18 AM

Now you're talkin'!

James Simonson · #9 09-17-2010, 12:25 AM

I've used copper shielding tape as a shim because it is sticky on one side. Works great. Use the nut as a cutout guide.

+1 on the bone nut start over.

Zooberwerx · #10 09-17-2010, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walterw

unless you have one of those wierd "tension-free neck" arrangements where the brass nut is integral with internal brass supports in the neck, you can remove it. (holding a soldering iron on it is an easy way to soften the glue and finish holding it in.)

at that point, shimming it, reinstalling it, and re-filing the slots is a heck of a lot easier than making a new one.

Slight correction: the Bunker-esque tension-free nut is actually an asymmetrical plate which screws to the buttend of the neck. They can be removed / replaced by simply removing the string retainer or headstock; no need to remove the internal steel rod. Problem is that there's no way to shim it once removed. Dave Bunker does sell replacements, though.

I like the idea of the self-adhesive copper shielding. I would guess it kicks the nut up just high enough so extensive re-filing is not necessary.

Riis

mongo2 · #11 09-17-2010, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLS

Best thing to do would be to pull the nut, shim underneath, recut as necessary.

I've done this several times for Fender style brass nuts.

srsteve · #12 09-17-2010, 11:01 AM

It's a non-OEM nut. I'm hoping whoever installed it didn't super-glue it in.

JLS · #13 09-17-2010, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by srsteve

It's a non-OEM nut. I'm hoping whoever installed it didn't super-glue it in.

If so, heat it with a soldering iron, if it won't break free from rocking it back and forth a little.

walterw · #14 09-17-2010, 05:06 PM

i use superglue all the time for installing nuts. (a little goes a long way.)

it dries quick, hard, and brittle; good for tone, and easy to break loose again.

JLS · #15 09-17-2010, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walterw

i use superglue all the time for installing nuts. (a little goes a long way.)

it dries quick, hard, and brittle; good for tone, and easy to break loose again.

I remember the bad old days, pre-superglue...