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03-18-2013, 09:15 PM
| | | | Can I just adjust the Bridge Height? (First of all, I followed several links, and watched several videos on setting up a bass properly.)
My question is, can I do any one of the steps (truss rod, nut adjustment, bridge height, string length) without doing the others?
I do not have a nut file, and I just realized my capo has gone missing 
The action is far too high, and after practicing 2-4 hours a day, I'm starting to pay the price in my wrists/tendons. I have the necessary tools for adjusting the bridge, and I'd like to do so before practicing tonight. Any reason not to? | 
03-18-2013, 09:25 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Glen Burnie, MD | | | Of course you can. These days I view having a grasp on getting your own settings dialed in is like a rite of passage for a player. I remember when I started being afraid of 'screwing things up'... but now feel comfortable making any reversible adjustment. Baby steps. | 
03-18-2013, 09:33 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | | Sure but it's always best to check neck relief first. It only takes a minute and adjusting is generally easy. And no you don't have to wait for the neck to settle. If it changes in a couple days just re tweak it and leave the action alone.
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*1962 Jazz. '74ish Ampeg V4B, 115/210. * '75 Gibson G3. *Epi Tbird. *Squier: VM Jazz, CV 50's P. *Squier VM Jazz Assoc. *MBC 641. Squier owners club
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03-18-2013, 09:41 PM
| | | | Does anyone else use a credit card as your measurement? I don't have a Feeler Gauge handy.
Last edited by m0ranwad : 03-18-2013 at 10:04 PM.
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03-18-2013, 10:01 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Minneapolis | | | I do it all the time, go in small increments, then play for a while, then either stop or do it again. I all of the sudden it gets all clanky you've gone too a far and need more relief.
Honestly, I set up my bass, and formerly guitars, without measurements or capos or anything and got wonderful results. It might take some time playing around and getting a feel for it but as long as you don't turn the truss rod miles at a time you won't break anything.
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03-19-2013, 05:40 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | Quote:
Originally Posted by m0ranwad Does anyone else use a credit card as your measurement? I don't have a Feeler Gauge handy. | I use a business card. Credit card is a big gap.
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*1962 Jazz. '74ish Ampeg V4B, 115/210. * '75 Gibson G3. *Epi Tbird. *Squier: VM Jazz, CV 50's P. *Squier VM Jazz Assoc. *MBC 641. Squier owners club
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03-19-2013, 08:58 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Fairfield,Ohio | | | I use the buisness card or a pick for string height.. Just take your time. I to used to be afraid of working on them. But if you're patient you'll get it.
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03-19-2013, 09:05 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Baltimore,MD USA | | | If you're satisfied with the straightness of the fingerboard and there is no unwanted string buzzing, all you should do is adjust your string height at the bridge. Be sure to check your 12th-fret intonation as well.
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Edward G., Baltimore, MD
'You don't always get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get.' —Don King
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03-19-2013, 09:21 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Baltimore,MD USA | | | FWIW, solid-body guitars and basses are close to indestructible, by design. A modicum of interest in what you're doing is all you need to work on them. It's not like dealing with delicate sculpture or pottery. It's a stout mechanical device.
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Edward G., Baltimore, MD
'You don't always get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get.' —Don King
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