Can You Dremel a 3-ply pickguard???

[OldSchoolBass]

Sorry it's not an incredibly techincal question, but a question nonetheless.

I got a pickguard for my Fender P-Bass and went to swap it out last night. My bass hass Bassline PU's on it, and the PG won't fit over the PU's..

I compared the existing one and the new one, and indeed, the holes for the PU's are indeed a tad larger on the old one. Why????? ARGH!! NO idea. I figured standard. But this is ME - there is no such thing as standard and easy.

I contemplated selling it on Ebay, but I like the new guard. Then it dawned on me, my wife being a sculptor, she has a nifty dremel tool with tons of attachments, one would/should be able to file/rout the holes just that much bigger to fit.

But then again, I figured I would ask the masses here at Talkbass....

Is this going to work?

One way to find out??

[mjolnir]

Yeah, it should work no problem. I've never done 3 ply, but I dremeled the hell outta some pickguards in my day and they held up.

[jrfrond]

As to WHY this happens, it's pretty simple: Fender's pickguards are die-cut on a punch press using extremely accurate and expensive tooling. A stack of blanks is inserted, and the pickguard shape and holes are cut cleanly in an instant. The new pickguards are then beveled and the holes countersunk by hand.

Custom pickguards are cut with routers and templates. It is a good system, but due to small inaccuracies of working with templates and tracings, inside holes will be a hair too small, and outside curves will be a hair too big. Most aftermarket pickguards need the holes opened up and neck pocket area trimmed.

It is not economically feasible for accessories companies to purchase tools and dies for each of the countless models of pickguards they turn out. Places like WD, Pickguardian, etc. are to be commended for the fine work they do. The inaccuracies are small and workable.

Can you use a Dremel? Hell yes! That's what I use all the time, plus some files. Just go SLOW, because the Dremel, even with the finest sanding drums, cuts REAL fast, and it is easy to lose control.

The Dremel is a GREAT tool, and it gets a lot of hang time on my bench. All of the attachments work great too.

[Pilgrim]

I like using files because you can keep lines straight much more easily, and you can control how much you take off. One slip with something as aggressive as a Dremel, and you can have a big hole. But files work best for small alternations - if I had a lot of material to move I'd use a Dremel until I got close, then go to a fine-tooth file.

[T-Bird]

Hi.

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

I like using files because you can keep lines straight much more easily, and you can control how much you take off. One slip with something as aggressive as a Dremel, and you can have a big hole. But files work best for small alternations - if I had a lot of material to move I'd use a Dremel until I got close, then go to a fine-tooth file.

+10.

Even though Dremel looks like a toy, the damage one can do in a heartbeat is truly amazing. With a decent file, only a couple of passes is needed to correct any manufacturing errors.

If You're handy with the Dremel, go for it, but I'd advice against it.

Just my 0.02€
Sam

[BillyB_from_LZ]

It's probably easier and faster just to use a file and do it by hand.

A file will cut the plastic with almost zero effort...go slow and sneak up on the proper size holes!!!