Can't Get Action Any Lower

sandman_96 · #1 03-16-2006, 08:15 PM

Hey everyone, long time since I've posted here.

I have a G&L L-2500 and I've never been able to get the action as low as I would like on it. The way it's setup now the strings are nearly touching at the first 3 frets but from there it just gets higher and higher. I've messed with the truss rod as much as I feel comfortable doing. From what I've heard I shouldn't trust any of the music stores around here to do it either. Just for reference, I have a Dean Edge Improv and the action on that is perfect for me and I've never had to touch the truss rod on it.

I've read that some people have had problems with the truss rod nut being stripped out on their G&L's, I think I have that problem with mine too. It turns with no resistance and the neck never moves. It does this only when turning one way, don't remember which way that is right now though. Any tips on fixing this and lowering the action a bit? Thanks.

62bass · #2 03-17-2006, 07:05 AM

You might try putting a shim under the heel of the neck in the neck pocket at the end closest to the bridge to tilt the neck back slightly. That's worked for me on several basses. I use thin wood veneer (the kind used for edging laminate) cut to size. Some guys use a piece of business card and others use masking tape. You have to take the strings off and remove the neck though. It's a trial and error thing. It doesn't take much thickness of shim to make a big difference in neck angle.

As far as the truss rod adjustment, it tightens when you turn the adjustment nut clockwise and that's when you should feel resistance. If it doesn't tighten when done that way, then something else is wrong. If you turn counter-clockwise it should feel like less resistance and eventually the nut will come right off the thread.

bannedwit · #3 03-17-2006, 07:22 AM

I had the same issue with my MIM Fender P-Bass...

I wanted some real low action for fingerstyle playing and I had to get rid of how the strings kept going higher and higher as they got closer to the bridge... Truss Rod wouldnt do it for me...
I ended up removing the neck and throwing a 1/4 of a business card at the rear of the neck to body joint and put the neck back on...
WHAT A DIFFERENCE... I can finger tap on it now!
I had to raise the strings a bit for my new band because I use a pick for that one so I had to since change things around so it is in between when I set it up and when it was left for dead.

sandman_96 · #4 03-17-2006, 12:35 PM

Thanks for the replies. I will think about shimming the neck but would be afraid to really screw it up. Anything I should look out for when removing a neck and putting it back on?

62bass · #5 03-17-2006, 01:21 PM

There's really not much to it. Remove neck screws, (after strings are removed of course) gently ease neck out of pocket, add shim, ease neck back into pocket, put screws back in tighten screws. Make sure you use the proper screwdriver tip to avoid ruining the heads. Put your bass face down on a soft towel to protect it when removing and replacing screws.

Sometimes, if the neck has been off and on many times, the screw holes in the neck get stripped out too large, but if this is the case it's an easy fix with a few toothpicks and glue.

sandman_96 · #6 03-17-2006, 10:10 PM

I worked up the courage to mess with the truss rod some more today. The action has got better but still way to high. I'm gonna let the neck settle for a good day and try to tighten the truss rod a little more. But I've heard on these G&L's if the truss rod nut is stripped it won't hold the neck in place so this may be a lost cause. Hopefully I can get it though.

62bass · #7 03-18-2006, 03:53 AM

Is the neck bowed badly? I think you'd better read up on setting up your bass in the sticky threads above. You seem to be missing something here. This is not to make you feel bad-just, when you're new at it and lack experience and some of the technical data you can get some confused ideas.

I don't think your truss rod is stripped or maxed out, It wouldn't be doing anything if it was. Just because someone said something about that's the problem with G&L doesn't mean that it's true. Where did you hear that and from who?

I've never known G&L necks to have any such problem. You can ruin the truss rod on any neck by overtightening it, but most guys don't.

Using the truss rod to adjust the string height on your bass is the wrong way to do it. So check the sticky threads, look at your bass while reading it and make sure you understand what you're reading. I think that'll clear up your confusion.

What I learned about set ups and repair I picked up mostly by experience and watching a few people who knew what they were doing. There were no books about it then and no internet to ask questions. Hell, there wasn't even electricity!

sandman_96 · #8 03-18-2006, 08:53 AM

It has too much relief, I've done that test from the sticky thread and there is way more than a credit card between the string and fret. I have looked through those links many times and this isn't the first time I've setup this bass.

The truss rod is not what I think might be stripped out, it's the truss rod nut. It is indeed a known problem with G&L, I frist heard about it on the dude pit forums. I can't find any specific threads right now but check out this forum, http://www.vintagebass.com/thedudepi...splay.php?f=45 The main reason I think the nut is stripped is cause it won't hold the truss rod in place. It's been a while since I had played this bass but the action wasn't near this bad.

The way the bass is now, if I lowered the strings at the saddles they will buzz at the first three frets. I've done this before and I know not to go too far with the truss rod. I appreciate all your tips though.

62bass · #9 03-18-2006, 11:23 AM

Okay, if it's the nut, then it's a cheap fix to put on a new one.

aarono · #10 03-19-2006, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62bass

You might try putting a shim under the heel of the neck in the neck pocket at the end closest to the bridge to tilt the neck back slightly. That's worked for me on several basses. I use thin wood veneer (the kind used for edging laminate) cut to size. Some guys use a piece of business card and others use masking tape. You have to take the strings off and remove the neck though. It's a trial and error thing. It doesn't take much thickness of shim to make a big difference in neck angle.

As far as the truss rod adjustment, it tightens when you turn the adjustment nut clockwise and that's when you should feel resistance. If it doesn't tighten when done that way, then something else is wrong. If you turn counter-clockwise it should feel like less resistance and eventually the nut will come right off the thread.

I wasn't too comfortable with taking off strings on my neck, so I loosened the strings quite a bit (very very loose) but I kept them on when I took off the neck to remove the washers from the neck pocket. Is there a chance this caused any serious problems?

62bass · #11 03-19-2006, 08:14 AM

aarono · #12 03-19-2006, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62bass

No.

Thank God.