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Originally Posted by deathbassist Hi
Recently I've been working on my basses on their setups and stuff, and i started working on my five string ( Rogue LX205 B II series, cheap bass my first five string.) So I straightned the neck to where it was straight but around the 1st to 4th fret feels like that its bowing a bit. Then I lowered the action at the bridge. Now the string saddles were already pretty low so I barely lowered them but i can't seem to get the action I would like. The action I prefer is really low because I play technical death metal and I tap and sweep and I just love the way it feels to play with low action. I just can't seem to get it. I even took it to my nearest guitar store back in February and it dosn't seem like they did much then. I don't know if there could be somthing wrong. I also did a setup on one of my four string basses. Neck straight and action is perfect without the string saddles being so low. So if anyone can help with how I get my action lower and if there is a problem with it or not it would be very appreciated!
Thanks.  |
Much of the guesswork can be eliminated using one simple tool: a ruler (specifically, a 6" machinist rule or "scale" with 32nd and 64th inch increments). Measure the action at the 12th fret and the last fret of the bass and compare it to the measurements of your other basses.
Now, let's talk about neck bow and relief. The bow that's caused by string tension will be the greatest at the middle of the neck (usually the 8th or 9th fret) and the truss rod will have the greatest effect on the center of the neck. So, you should not have "bow" at the 1st to 4th fret if your neck is indeed straight, assuming you are measuring your neck relief correctly. To be clear, checking the neck relief means that you hold down the first and last fret of the E or G string and measure the gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string at the 8th or 9th fret. For players that use extensive tapping styles or have a lighter touch with their plucking hand, the neck relief can be as little as .015" (that's 15 thousandths of an inch, which can be measured with a feeler gauge or you can approximate by using a business card, which is typically about .012).
Once the truss rod has been adjusted so that the relief in the middle of the neck is correct, then it is time to set the action and finally the intonation.
Regarding your saddles, if they are near bottoming out and you still need them to go lower, it's time to shim the neck. It's easy to do. Cut a 1" x 0.5" strip of .010" shim stock (or the business card you used to check the neck relief). Loosen your neck screws and slide the shim in the neck pocket between the two screws closest to the bridge. Make sure the shim is in straight before tightening the neck screws. Sometimes a little spit will help keep it from sliding around. Then readjust your action using the measurements you took from your other basses as a reference.
Other considerations:
The real keys to low action are a straight, level fingerboard, level frets, and sufficiently stiff strings. If you don't have these things then you will not be able to adjust the action to your liking without substantial fret buzz.