Changing bridge on 5 string stingray

akori · #1 01-22-2008, 11:48 PM

Hello all:
Since I'm addicted to really close string-spacing ( I've got my Warwick FNA Jazzman 5 to 16mm at the bridge), I want to do a modifiation to a Stingray 5.

I love Stingrays, but the bridge only accomodates 17.5 mm- and I want it as narrow as I can get it. There are several aftermarket bridges I could use to achieve this, but does anyone know of any problems I might encounter by putting another bridge on the Stingray? I realize that it would have to sit as low as the Stingray bridge, or else I'd have to rout out the body to lay the new bridge in, but I'm assuming I can find one that sits as low. Anybody have any warnings or experience in this area?
Thanks

SuperSnake2012 · #2 01-23-2008, 12:17 AM

I don't know if this a very good idea... besides the fact that the body would have to be carved up, the pickups are designed for the 17.5mm spacing. This may cause issues with the string balance/volume/etc. The SR5 spacing is fairly tight as it is, I think you should just leave it that way.

73jbass · #3 01-23-2008, 03:04 AM

I'd leave the SR5 alone,sell it,and get another Warwick if you need that tight of a string spacing. You'll kill the resale value of the SR5,and most MM owners prefer them unaltered.

Buskman · #4 01-23-2008, 08:04 AM

Don't do it...

For a few bucks more than a high quality replacement bridge, you can pick up an OLP Stingray 5 copy, which has slightly tighter string spacing.

Not to mention, if you ever decide to sell the EB down the line, you'd be cutting the resale value in a big way.

akori · #5 01-23-2008, 02:53 PM

Hey Guys:
You raise some good points, but I'd obviously be consigned to a lower resale value if I modified the bass...no problems there. I teach guitar/bass full time, and rehearse the rest of the day, so playability is THE issue with me always. When you have an axe in your hands 5-8 hours a day, it's about comfort and avoiding injuries. Narrow spacing is a HUGE advantage, once you get used to it. It helps you play with precision & a light touch. (Try it sometime-at first you want to go back to wider spacing, but then you get used to it, and you're exerting yourself a lot less. 19mm then feels like jumping the grand canyon)! Even the modest 17.5mm of a Stingray seems wide next to a Warwick closed down to the minimum.
I've had several Stingrays, and while I think My FNA Jazzman is sensational in sound & string height, it suffers from those wierd ergonomic issues that Warwicks have. In particular, I've noticed that it's supertanker-like neck profile (which I actually like) makes playing certain things in the upper registers hard on my thumb. Since I spend a lot of time playing Bach and all sorts of arpegio-related stuff, it just keeps my thumb bent back alot. So I'd like to return to a more "normal" neck profile, and I always thought the Stingray5 was comfy-especially because it feels like a Fenderish-size...not so long, like a Warwick. After playing a Warwick, a Fender or a MM feels SHORT. I dig that. I know they're both 34' scale, but it's that bizarro neck/body geometry of the Warwicks.
Anyway, I'm looking for anybody to tell me their experience on switching out bridges. I'd be happy to do whatever I had to to accomodate the install, again, as playability is key.
So anyone with experience in switching out bridges, chime in.
Oh, and thanks again about the admonishments not to butcher a Stingray...resale would be at a bargain.

Thanks-

ddnidd1 · #6 01-26-2008, 07:27 AM

Alongside the outer most saddles are two raised chrome pieces. Those screw into metal fittings installed in the body. You won't find a bridge that is wide enough to cover these fittings, so they will be visible.

BobXboB · #7 01-28-2008, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buskman

For a few bucks more than a high quality replacement bridge, you can pick up an OLP Stingray 5 copy, which has slightly tighter string spacing.

16.25mm center to center on mine.

akori · #8 01-28-2008, 12:28 PM

Hey BUSKMAN & Bob x bob:

Very cool to note the tight string spacing on the OLP. But...do you REALLY think these things have anywhere near the quality of wood selection, fret, paint, finish, etc., work that a stiingray does? For that matter, aren't the electronics all cheaper( I'd assume that every fraction of a penny is shaved by using components that are lower grade). True, disgustingly cheap labor in CHINA-slave labor by our standards, perhaps, is most of the cost difference, but c'mon? Is the OLP really almost the same? The main thing I'd fear, is greener wood for the neck...ready to warp and twist.
What do you think?

thanks.

Buskman · #9 01-28-2008, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akori

Hey BUSKMAN & Bob x bob:

Very cool to note the tight string spacing on the OLP. But...do you REALLY think these things have anywhere near the quality of wood selection, fret, paint, finish, etc., work that a stiingray does? For that matter, aren't the electronics all cheaper( I'd assume that every fraction of a penny is shaved by using components that are lower grade). True, disgustingly cheap labor in CHINA-slave labor by our standards, perhaps, is most of the cost difference, but c'mon? Is the OLP really almost the same? The main thing I'd fear, is greener wood for the neck...ready to warp and twist.
What do you think?

thanks.

Hey, akori -

Is an OLP on the same level of a StingRay 5? No way.

However, it does put you in the same ballpark. Lots of good things have been said here in 'TB Land' about the Tony Levin model, for example. I feel the OLP's fall into the same category as Squier, meaning that the QC will definitely vary from bass to bass - but when you find a good one, it's a very good one. You can get a somewhat convincing SR tone from one, IMHO... And I do own a SR5 (in case anyone was wondering).

Don't get me wrong - you might have very favorable results by swapping out bridges (I'd be curious to see how it all works out for you, in fact), but I was just throwing a caution flag up, just in case you decided to sell down the line.

I mean, how many e-bay listings do you see where you say to yourself: "Sweet bass... but why did they do THAT to it?"

The resale value dropps in a BIG way. That's all I was saying.

Either way, good luck - and if you do decide on switching bridges, don't forget to share your findings... with pics, of course!

-Chris

akori · #10 01-28-2008, 01:48 PM

Thanks, Chris.
You're right about that odd Squier (or in this case, OLP) that's a real good one.Searching for one of those would be a good strategy. Of course, I could try to get an OLP bridge and put it on a Stingray (Mad scientist laughing). Stop me before I try to mod again!
Thanks again,
Alex

Eric Moesle · #11 01-28-2008, 04:21 PM

A tighter-spaced bridge will prevent the strings from lining up with the pickup's pole pieces. String-to-string balance will be uneven. Don't do it.

If this is that big of an issue for you, find another bass. Lots of high quaity tightly-spaced basses out there if you look.

akori · #12 01-28-2008, 05:55 PM

Hey Eric:
Thanks for the warning; this would truly suck...however, I squeezed the spacing on my Warwick FNA Jazzman to the minimum, and the strings are off the poles...some of them considerably. Guess what? No discernable change in tone or volume. I was surprised. My friend (and constant devil's advocate), J-rugg, said not to worry, and, indeed, the bass sounds fine. I asked a very experienced tech, and he said it often has no audible effect. So that one's not necessarily a deal -killer when changing bridges.
If only the perfect bass existed...what I'd kill for, is a Kubicki ex-factor 4 string (original 32' scale) in a narrow-stringed configuration. Too bad the Kubicki bridge is entirely unalterable.
Still, I gotta' find an alternative to my behemoth-shaped FNA neck for relief sometimes... and narrow spacing, like feather-weight string action is always a requirement for me.
If you know of other basses that set up like a dream with adjustable spacing, let me know!
PS: what I found with several Stingray 4s and 5s-like many Fenders, is that you can't get the string action as low as they might actually accomodate, because you bottom out the saddles...nowhere to go. If the bridges were recessed-or, if the necks were deeper-taller, that is, then we wouldn't have this problem. A bass like a warwick, on the other hand, with it's lower bridge, and high-thisk neck, no problem. You could lay those strings UNDER the frets if you wanted to. For all their bizarro shape issues, Warwicks are so far (IMHO) the best bass for setup versatility.
Still, I miss that totally didtinctive Stingray sound.
Thanks-
Alex

BobXboB · #13 01-30-2008, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akori

Hey BUSKMAN & Bob x bob:

Very cool to note the tight string spacing on the OLP. But...do you REALLY think these things have anywhere near the quality of wood selection, fret, paint, finish, etc., work that a stingray does?

No

But I refret mine and added Hipshot tuners & bridge, the wood is just fine and now it plays and sounds great. Before it had the worst frets I've ever seen, worse than the SX I had, so the refret was needed.

The neck is straight grained birdseye maple with a rosewood board and feels great. The bass is also lighter than most stingrays. No dead spots, no sustain issues.