Cheap Nut Files

[Robert Spencer]

What can I use to file the nut without spending a lot of money ( which I don`t have)? I do not intend to make a living at this so cannot justify spending enough to buy professional products such as those available from StuMac or other retail suppliers.

I`m sure that some guys here are using a combination of tools that are much more affordable to a one time user or beginner just starting out. Thanks & tak care. Bob

[49sfine]

Originally Posted by Robert Spencer

What can I use to file the nut without spending a lot of money ( which I don`t have)? I do not intend to make a living at this so cannot justify spending enough to buy professional products such as those available from StuMac or other retail suppliers.

I`m sure that some guys here are using a combination of tools that are much more affordable to a one time user or beginner just starting out. Thanks & tak care. Bob

I know what you mean! For a few years now, I have been using a round needle file left over from my jewelry making days. It works just fine, but since it is tapered, it takes some finesse to use, especially on the smaller diameter strings. I plan to keep it in service, but I just recently purchased (Ebay) a kool set of bass guitar nut files made by some guys doing this kind of work. Bascially, they are 4 individual serrated stainless steel rods (3" long each) that are designed to fit into a shortened jewelry-making coping saw. Since I have 3 of those saws, I designated one of them for the nut files and didn't mind cutting off the excess adjustment bar material to fit the much shorter rods. The 4 files by themselves were $16 and with the modified saw they are $38. I have not had occasion to use them yet, but will in the next couple of weeks as I have to make an ebony nut for a Wishbass I am refinishing. If you would like to learn more I can look up the name and perhaps even a link to these guys and their tools. I have bought a few things from them now.

[JumboJack]

These might work

[kurosawa]

I use letter and number sized drill bits for files. They will get you within thousandths of an inch of a string gauge. Four of these seem cheap to me. Don't settle for a slightly wrong size. I always make it a tad tighter rather than looser. The graphite lubricates, and the plastic moves to accommodate. You want to avoid nut buzz, so go tighter.

It takes a long time to cut a slot, which is good because you can't screw up in a split second this way. Nonetheless, it took a few attempts to cut my first nut to my satisfaction. Practice is important because every time I get a set of strings gauged differently from one I already have, I cut a fresh nut to fit because I want precision.

I make the nut very low. I do the final height filing so that half the string is buried in the nut and the other half is exposed. I have been buying nut blanks with the vintage Fender fretboard curvature. File the nut slot depth slowly, using automotive feeler gauges to make sure the string clearance at the first fret equals the clearance at the second when you fret at the first, like a zeroth fret would do.

I also angle the part of the nut that you see from the front of the bass parallel to the string break angle to maintain the string being half-buried. Each slot starts out parallel to the fretboard, and curves bit by bit down toward the headstock. This prevents the string from resting at a point short of the fretboard face of the nut.

Since I had the luxury, I tried cutting nuts two ways, first so that string centers were equidistant, second so that there is an equal gap between strings (in both cases, I wanted an equal distance from the string to the edge of the fretboard, so I did that). I found I prefer the second, but it is no big deal, just a little something you can do.

[Rocky McDougall]

I have used small round files, hack saw blades, scroll saw blades, serrated steak knives, old round-wound strings and anything else I can find that is the right size. I cannot justify the price of good nut files. I only cut 3 -4 nuts a year. Also, I am not paranoid about having the world's lowest action.
Rocky

[TheEmptyCell]

Originally Posted by 49sfine

I know what you mean! For a few years now, I have been using a round needle file left over from my jewelry making days. It works just fine, but since it is tapered, it takes some finesse to use, especially on the smaller diameter strings. I plan to keep it in service, but I just recently purchased (Ebay) a kool set of bass guitar nut files made by some guys doing this kind of work. Bascially, they are 4 individual serrated stainless steel rods (3" long each) that are designed to fit into a shortened jewelry-making coping saw. Since I have 3 of those saws, I designated one of them for the nut files and didn't mind cutting off the excess adjustment bar material to fit the much shorter rods. The 4 files by themselves were $16 and with the modified saw they are $38. I have not had occasion to use them yet, but will in the next couple of weeks as I have to make an ebony nut for a Wishbass I am refinishing. If you would like to learn more I can look up the name and perhaps even a link to these guys and their tools. I have bought a few things from them now.

I've seen those on eBay... a review would be great after you've used them, as those guys seem to sell some other more snake-oil type products (the brass nut that's got notches between the strings comes to mind).

I think some guys have suggested needle files or torch tip cleaners (sorry if those names are wrong, it's off the top of my head).

[Pilgrim]

Drill bits with very fine wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around them have been used for this. (According to one of the posters here who knows more than I do.) As long as you account for the thickness of the sandpaper, you're pretty accurate on size.

[calebbarton]

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

Drill bits with very fine wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around them have been used for this. (According to one of the posters here who knows more than I do.) As long as you account for the thickness of the sandpaper, you're pretty accurate on size.

Not a bad idea. I pretty much use one file for bass, the big round one that comes in the package of like 40 from harbor freight. I for guitar I use the tiny nut files from warmoth


http://www.warmoth.com/Files-C215.aspx

[kurosawa]

Originally Posted by Rocky McDougall

Also, I am not paranoid about having the world's lowest action.

Cutting the nut slots so the nut is as low as a zeroth fret (which is the best idea of all) makes intonation as accurate as possible.

[SBassman]

I have used a single triangular file from a home store.

People also report success using a roundwound string to file the nut slots.

[bumperbass]

I cut my slots to be the same as the fretted first fret, which is what we're trying to achieve. Just be sure you don't have the strings adjusted too high like I did because when you lower them later, you might get first-fret buzz. Haven't made that mistake gain. I have two of those sets of twelve assorted needle files. There are only a few that are really useful but it takes a while when you have to keep using the smaller part of the tapered files.
I guess mine are the same as these but I'm looking for something better.

Originally Posted by JumboJack

These might work

[Willicious]

Originally Posted by Rocky McDougall

…old round-wound strings…

This.
And, the Harbor Freight needle files, used creatively, can do a decent job.

Liking the sandpaper-wrapped drill bit idea…

[FunkRenegade]

I dropped down the nut on my warwick, and the difference in playability is amazing! I don't even think I can pick up my fender again, before I cut the nut on it.

Originally Posted by kurosawa

I use letter and number sized drill bits for files. They will get you within thousandths of an inch of a string gauge. Four of these seem cheap to me. Don't settle for a slightly wrong size. I always make it a tad tighter rather than looser. The graphite lubricates, and the plastic moves to accommodate. You want to avoid nut buzz, so go tighter.

It takes a long time to cut a slot, which is good because you can't screw up in a split second this way. Nonetheless, it took a few attempts to cut my first nut to my satisfaction. Practice is important because every time I get a set of strings gauged differently from one I already have, I cut a fresh nut to fit because I want precision.

I make the nut very low. I do the final height filing so that half the string is buried in the nut and the other half is exposed. I have been buying nut blanks with the vintage Fender fretboard curvature. File the nut slot depth slowly, using automotive feeler gauges to make sure the string clearance at the first fret equals the clearance at the second when you fret at the first, like a zeroth fret would do.

I also angle the part of the nut that you see from the front of the bass parallel to the string break angle to maintain the string being half-buried. Each slot starts out parallel to the fretboard, and curves bit by bit down toward the headstock. This prevents the string from resting at a point short of the fretboard face of the nut.

Since I had the luxury, I tried cutting nuts two ways, first so that string centers were equidistant, second so that there is an equal gap between strings (in both cases, I wanted an equal distance from the string to the edge of the fretboard, so I did that). I found I prefer the second, but it is no big deal, just a little something you can do.

[Zooberwerx]

I just bought the real thing(s) and was done with it. However, I have had success using the micro-bits that came with my Dremel tool kit and wrapping them with emery cloth, not paper. Paper backed abrasives have the tendency to crease and create a distorted cutting surface.

Riis

[Fuzzy Dustmite]

I've always heard that super-gluing the roundwound string to the edge of a popsicle stick makes a nice cheap nut file.

[PlungerModerno]

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/...s-as-nut-files.

http://www.amazon.com/Tip-Cleaner-Us.../dp/B000ZHE46Y

I haven't used these... yet