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Originally Posted by zvone  Well I'm not absolutely certain that it is nitro, but I'm pretty sure as he prefers nitro (although you can't get it any more in shops as it's forbidden for import).
So, spraying over existing finish is not a good option?!
Well, than I'll live with it as it is  |
We are talking nitrocellulose lacquer here as butyrate-'nitro' lacquers are not in the same pot - well, not quite - but be careful what you think is 'nitro' can be a few different products!
The unknown is the biggest problem - nitro is an oft bandied about term and if you knew for a fact that it was indeed a nitro finish, then yes - you can prolly put a coat over it - but the old caveat jumps up that you and I are not sure what he used.
Let me drag a few copy/pastes in here for you so you can see some of the intricacies that are involved:::
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(ibid) ....if it's Nitrocellulose your looking for, the most consistent supplier I've been able to find is a company out of Ohio called Stewart MacDonald.
They carry everything from the high end Lawrence-McFadden line used by OEM's such as Fender Guitars, right down to spray cans of ColorTone brand for hobbyists. I live in Canada but Stew-Mac has always been good to me. Decent prices yes, but they always seem to have what you want in-stock.
You can check them out at stewmac.com.
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............Nitrocellulose paints are manufactured in India by M/s.
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............If you want Nitrocellulose lacquer in CA try here:
www.douglasandsturgess.com/product/CC-1022.html
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............Nitrocellulose lacquer is available from Bill Hirsch products, just "google" them on the internet. It will also require a special thinner and other additives available from Dan's Distributing in Sonora, Ca. a county that allows lacquer painting.
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............ML Campbell makes a 550 VOC, legal in the SF bay area, and a 275 VOC legal in the LA area, Nitrocellulose Lacquer. Louis and Company distributes it locally from their Fremont, CA location for the wood working industry. They also have other locations throughout the US.
ML Campbell has more information on their website.
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............I use nitro all the time to finish guitars. The only people I know making it are cabinet maker suppliers. That is where I get mine here in Canada. None of the auto paint places have it nor are they allowed to use it in Canada. I believe it is the same in California if not the entire USA. Canada has gone a step further and only waterbourne paint will be allowed for autos starting 2009.
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............You cannot get it shipped from other countries legally without a lot of headaches. You should be able to find at least one place that makes nitro cellulose in your area. The auto places will be no help, look for cabinetmaker suppliers. Deft clear lacquer is nitro so if you find a can of deft in your hardware store read the label and see who actually made it. There is a website for guitar finishers called reranch.com that sells it in spray bomb form US only. Perhaps they can hook you up.
WATCH OUT FOR THIS PROBLEM THOUGH:: "where can I find nitrocellulose refin paint? ReRanch doesn't work. Thanks"
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............Arcal Chemical makes an 031 Nitrocellulose Lacquer
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So - as you can see there's a lot of discussion on this very problem:
Compatibility and Availability.
Compatibility factors are always a risk when you re-coat something that is fairly new and has just been applied within a reasonable amount of time. If this finish is truly cured and not gassing, then the chances of crazing or going Atzei to the surface is lessened - but not totally removed.
REAL nitro never forgets it is nitro and can be remelted and reflowed after 30-40 years if it's allowed to get 'wetted' again with thinner. So you've got to be careful.
The secret to not re-flowing and harming the original nitro is to never use a thinner that is equal to whatever thinner the original nitro was thinned with - if you can follow that sentence.
For the next coat to
not attack this so-called: 'nitro' is where the problem is; you're not even sure he's using real nitro in the first place. That's the situation.
99.99% of all paint jobs is in the preparation - and if you can see old color or tint through the new - then he's taken your money and given you less that what you paid for here.
Shooting - although it requires skill and technique - is NOT the real part of the job where you are shoving the money - it's the labor to get the old surface ready for whatever one is charging the customer.
I'd squawk if it were MY money going out or gone on a failed job.
Yeah --- I say 'failed job' - since that's my assessment if you're not happy.
You DO know that everyone has a BILABIAL FISSURE and that my opinion is the same thing - in that everybody has one - right?
For anyone who wants to try it -
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Supply might be able to help you. I used their products all the time when I built and flew 1920s replica pylon racers.
