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  #1  
Old 12-16-2011, 11:41 PM
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Confessions Of A Mexican Stripper

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Took the paint off a mexi j body yesterday. After everything I'd read I expected it to be a real chore, but it only took me around an hour with a heat gun and a couple homemade tools to get it done.

Heat it up and it comes off clean, how much simpler can it be?

I had a little trouble around the upper strap button where the finish had busted off and someone put black sharpie and CA or some kind of epoxy in the void. It still needs a bit of work there, but not much. I've also got a knot hole in the upper rear bout that will need a little rework.

I'm still reading up on what to do next so I may yet realize what a mistake I've made if there is going to be a ton of prep before it can be repainted. It's several dark slabs topped (and bottomed) with a white wood of some kind so there's no need to try to show the wood, I just want something easy to work with and would prefer something I can get locally.

Tools and stripped...
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:16 PM
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Looks fine to me. A little sanding, application of wood sealer, and you'll be ready for a base coat.
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  #3  
Old 12-17-2011, 11:24 PM
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I'm hoping so.

Oh, and here's a before pic, and one of the knothole. Some of the filler is missing so I've got to find out what to fill that back with.
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Old 12-18-2011, 01:56 AM
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Thats cool that a heat gun can remove paint cleanly like that. Did you try graffiti remover for the sharpie stain?
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  #5  
Old 12-18-2011, 04:13 PM
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I'm less concerned about the sharpie than I am the roughness left behind by whatever was used to fill the areas where the original finish had chipped out. I figure I'll just work it down to match the rest of the body then cover it with whatever sealer I wind up using.

Not a very good pic, but it shows the rough area. Second pic is the back piece of white wood.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:01 PM
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If you're patient, a good quality wood filler can cover a lot. If the wood is really rough, you might end up removing some and filling the area.
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Last edited by Pilgrim : 12-18-2011 at 06:05 PM.
  #7  
Old 12-18-2011, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
If you're patient, a good quality wood filler can cover a lot. If the wood is really rough, you might end up removing some and filling the area.
+1 I would fill in the screw holes too and sand it down smooth. Then after you finish painting and curing drill a new screw hole for the strap button.

Looks pretty good so far.
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  #8  
Old 12-18-2011, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
If you're patient, a good quality wood filler can cover a lot. If the wood is really rough, you might end up removing some and filling the area.
I'm looking at wood fillers trying to decide which is going to be the best bet. I think I'm OK on every thing else but the knothole and the glued area. I was lucky when removing the finish and didn't put any marks in the wood. There are a few marks in whatever was used as a base coat for the poly finish, but I'm thinking those will come out when I sand.

I looked at some krylon products today and they offer several types of primer/sealer and even have a combo primer/finish coat paint. I'm leaning toward their brush on primer and thinking I can use it as both primer and sealer. Brush on a few heavy coats, then use it for spot filler if I get any sand through while working it back down.
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