curved or flat nuts is a reference to the bottom shape of the nut slot - not the top shape of the physical nut. Fender (and several other companies) typically cut a non-flat bottom when they slot the fretboard due to their manufacturing methods
here's one example of a company radiusing a fretboard (sanding belt method) and then slotting the frets and nut (see tool right behind)
here's a nut pre-cut for a curved Fender style nut slot - notice the slight radius on the bottom of the nut
when installing a radiused bottom nut, you need to know the slot bottom radius. Stew-Mac sells nuts precut for both 10" and 7-1/4" radii
a flat bottom nut fits a slot that was cut with a different manufacturing method, or even possibly by hand. here's an image of what these look like
this nut is designed to sit tight against a flat bottomed nut slot
in either case, you're going to need to dress the top side of the nut after you have properly slotted it to fit and space your strings. you will need several small files, and a vise that has small enough jaws to allow you to work freely in fine detail.
be sure to buy a couple extra nuts - your first one usually doesn't turn out well, and you can then make corrections on your second (or third) one. unless you plan to renut several basses, it might just be less expensive to have a local tech do the job for you. not only will you get a job done right, but you won't have spent all of the $$ on tools/files/nut blanks only to learn you have a lot of practicing to do before you can make a playable nut ... and you pay the tech to make you a nut until such time as your skills are up to the task
all the best,
R