Crack on back of headstock

[zoltank8]

Hi Everyone,

I have a crack on the back of the headstock on my 8-yr-old Höhner B-Bass IV. It starts from the tiny screw of the E-string key.

I noticed it a week or two ago. I do not know how it started. I do not remember hitting it against anything. I've been handling it with care. Keep it in a padded bag all the time, etc.

This is my first bass so I have no idea what to do. I bought it off a friend 2 months ago. It's a very touchy issue as I have already paid for it and most probability it was not visible when I got it.

I'd like to know if I am to despair or just look at it as a defect in look. I bought this so that I can sell it later maybe but probably it is no longer sellable. Have any of you had any experiences like this? If it use will not be affected then I can live with it and keep it till the end.

Please comment. I'm eager to hear your opinions.

Thanks a lot in advance.

Take care,

Zoltán

[Mon Rominee]

At the very least, you can wick in some water-thin superglue in an attempt to stop the crack from spreading. It appears to be a stress crack (if infact not from an impact to the tuner) this has happenned to older Fenders too...as I'm sure others as well, I've seen it on a few basses.

Detune the string, remove the tuner screw and tuner body, get some water thin superglue and let it run down a toothpick onto the tip, aiming the glue at the widest point of the crack and let gravity do the work. May take a few applications.

Not saying this will cure, but it can keep the crack from spreading.

[kyral210]

sounds like a good plan there! But remember to clamp the head together with a vice of some sort after the application, and to leave it 48 hours after application before adding tension again.

This allows for a tight bond to form in the headstock, and for the glue to cure. If you don't do this then you risk doing no good.



P.S- If this is your first bass, its not like you forked out £1000 (thats $2000 folks) for a genuine Fender Jazz!

[202dy]

Repairs to guitars made of wood are best made with wood glue. Liquid thin super glue may wick into a wood crack but generally will not penetrate far enough before hardening to do any good other than to seal up the top portion of the crack and frustrate any further legitimate repair. Clamping an instant set CA glue is also unnecessary. By definition, once the glue sets any clamps that are used may be immediately removed. Since the glue sets within five to ten seconds clamping is neither needed nor recommended. In addition, CA glues have poor resistance to shear which in this case is exactly what is needed.

Remove the tuners on the headstock. The crack should be forced open a bit using clamps and cauls. Put some woodworking glue in a small container and dilute it roughly ten percent with water. If a syringe is available shoot a some glue into the deepest part of the crack and work your way up to the top. If a syringe cannot be obtained lay a good bit on the surface of the headstock and work it into the crack as best as can be done. Apply clamp(s) to close the crack tight. When designing the clamping rig it is best to make some cauls that are angled opposite the angles of the headstock so as to allow the clamps to get purchase on parallel surfaces. As to the choice of wood glues, yellow glues tend to be a little stronger than white glues. White glues have a little bit longer open time, seven minutes as opposed to five depending on temperature, humidity, and planet alignment. There is no free lunch. When the clamps are applied there will be some glue that will squeeze-out of the crack. That can be cleaned up with some towels and water. When you are cleaning the glue line the glue will continue to appear after the first few wipes. Keep cleaning until very little appears. Any residue can be cleaned up with water after the glue sets. Woodworking glues generally set in eight hours. The clamps can be removed at that point or can be left on overnight. Leaving the clamps on any longer will not make the joint any stronger. Set is set. Everything else is superstition and Voo Doo. After the clamps are removed do a final cleanup, reinstall the hardware and strings. You are ready to play. BTW, the newly repaired joint is stronger that it was before the break.

[zoltank8]

Thank you for all the advice. I'll get wood glue and set to repairing it.