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  #1  
Old 08-16-2009, 06:18 PM
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Crack in headstock of AllParts neck!!! Help!

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I've been working on this active P Bass for quite some time, and was working on the neck recently. I put the bushings in, seemed to go in fine with a little hammering. Then I put the tuners on and marked the places for the screws. I drilled holes for the screws and put them in, and they went in really easy and smooth, I actually thought for a moment I had drilled the holes too big, but they were fine. 2 days later, I pick up the neck and the headstock is CRACKED. There is a fault line on the back of the headstock and it passes through 2 of the screw holes. It does NOT extend to the edge, and it does NOT go through to the front of the headstock.
It seems functional the way it is, but I'm worried that a little pressure from the strings will make the crack bigger, what to do?
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2009, 07:19 PM
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If it were me, I'd:

1. Remove the tuners and bushings.
2. Inject a little glue into the crack (you might have to spread it open a tiny bit to do this effectively.
3. Clamp it up and let the glue cure for 24 hrs.
4. Carefully and slowly, with a little sandpaper on a dowel rod, enlarge the tuner holes just a bit. Try to avoid sanding the holes out of round.
5. Reinstall the tuners.
  #3  
Old 08-16-2009, 07:24 PM
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It should be glued or it can keep going. Never ever hammer in tuner ferrules (aka: bushings) - they can easily split a headstock. Enlarge the holes instead. I know it's easy to forget, but it's important.
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  #4  
Old 08-16-2009, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
It should be glued or it can keep going. Never ever hammer in tuner ferrules (aka: bushings) - they can easily split a headstock. Enlarge the holes instead. I know it's easy to forget, but it's important.
Indeed apparently. I enlarged the holes as much as I thought I needed to, not enough I guess. Thank you guys for your help.
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  #5  
Old 08-16-2009, 08:42 PM
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You can use insulin syringes from the drug store for the glue. You'll probably bend a couple plungers, but they will work and are pretty cheap.
  #6  
Old 08-16-2009, 08:53 PM
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buy a good clamp. I would personally use a couple of small strap clamps (put a cloth of some kind between the wood and the strap). That way you make sure you are applying even pressure to the headstock.
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  #7  
Old 08-16-2009, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennW View Post
You can use insulin syringes from the drug store for the glue. You'll probably bend a couple plungers, but they will work and are pretty cheap.
+1 on this technique. Super glue will work but can easily get smeared in places you don't want it. You can also thin Titebond glue slightly with water and it will work - and you have more working time, and it can be wiped off with no sign! Much safer. Just remember to clamp the headstock overnight and pad the jaws of the clamp so as not to leave marks.
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  #8  
Old 08-16-2009, 09:11 PM
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+1 on the Titebond. Don't use superglue for this one.
  #9  
Old 08-16-2009, 10:33 PM
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This is one of the circumstances in which dial calipers pay for themselves; measuring the OD of the bushing and the ID of the hole in the headstock, and comparing numbers before attempting a test fit can prevent these kinds of splits. For these kinds of tasks I use a dial caliper that can measure to within .001" and cost only $40; if you prefer digital calipers, they can be had for about the same price.

Good luck!
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  #10  
Old 08-16-2009, 10:33 PM
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Rad guys, thank you all again!
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