Crack in neck

[DeivoxCarnal]

I got a CIJ 1960's Victoria Short Scale bass on CL today.
I knew it would be a project and it was dirt cheap, so I'm not surprised that it's in such rough condition.


It didn't play when I got it home, so I opened her up and replaced one of the pots, now it plays fine.
It's got two rocker switches that turn each pickup on and off.

I love the look of this bass, and I was happily surprised to find out that it was a short scale. (30")
(The only reason I measured was because I tried to put a fresh set of flats on it, only to find out that my strings were way too long.)

But here's the bad news.





So how bad is it? Could I fix it with some epoxy and clamps?
If not, how much might a luthier charge to fix it?

I haven't put any tension on the strings other than the minimum I needed to hear the pickups
I guess if it's not fixable my next option is to get a replacement neck, but I have the feeling that might be difficult to find given the measurements.
The neck pocket measured a little over 1.75"

Any tips or information would be great.

[Turnaround]

Epoxy is not a good solution. The only thing I would trust is hot hide glue worked well into the crack and properly clamped. If you are not experienced in working with hot hide glue, find a luthier that is.

[Hopkins]

I would force some titebond into the split and clamp it overnight.

[Vincent P]

Agreed, or Lepage Carpenters glue, or Gorilla glue with a good set of "C" Clamps using some wood to protect the neck when clamping. A good tight clamp and allow to dry for a full 24 hours, and then to sit for 2 more days, a total of 72 hours to cure. I know this sounds like overkill but well worth the wait.
Hopefully the neck is not weakend somewhere else. Good luck.

[john grey]

"Gorilla glue" produces bubbles in the curing.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by john grey

"Gorilla glue" produces bubbles in the curing.

Yep! Those bubbles indicate that the glue expands during cure. Nasty cleanup, too.

The idea is to have a thin layer of glue in the joint. Gorilla glue won't do that. It is also nice if the glue will allow the joint to be disassembled and cleaned if necessary.* Epoxy will not allow for that.

White and yellow glues work well in this application. White glue has an open time of approximately seven minutes. Yellow glue is more like five. Both clean up with water.

Hot hide glue is probably the best choice as it is a bit stronger, penetrates better, and disassembles easier than the synthetics. The downside to hide glue is that speed is important. The open time is at best two minutes. That means the joint should be warm; the clamps, cauls, and clean up materials should be at hand. It is important to do a couple of dry runs to make sure that the order of operation is quick and correct.

*For example, the clamping rig slips and causes a misalignment during cure.

[96tbird]

Hide glue or Carpenter's glue (Titebond) (aliphatic resin). White glue as in school glue is not a good choice, too soft.

[JLS]

should this garbage be used in musical instrument repair.

[Pilgrim]

Originally Posted by JLS

should this garbage be used in musical instrument repair.

^^^ +1,000,000

[mongo2]

I've used Superglue, Titebond II and Elmers Carpenters glue for such repairs.

[DeivoxCarnal]

titebond it is!
thanks for the tips guys.