Cracks in Neck - Cause for Concern?

[jaywa]

I have a bass with cracks on both ends of the neck. I’m hoping some of you experts can look at the attached pics and tell me if I should be concerned.

The bass is a 1978 Precision, black/black with maple neck. I am its original and only owner. The frets, nut, string tree and tuners are all 100% original. Until a couple of months ago the bass was strung with roundwounds (alternating between medium and heavy gauge), now it wears medium gauge GHS Precision Flats.

The crack extending from the nut (1st picture) does not appear to be deep, i.e., if you run your fingertip over it you won’t feel it but if you drag your fingernail it does "click" slightly. This crack appears to be slowly lengthening over time (i.e. extending further around the back of the neck), however the nut is still secure.

The crack over the truss rod nut (2nd picture) is deeper. You can feel it with your fingertip and it will catch your fingernail passing over it. It is not extending, essentially having been stopped by the bottom-most fret.

I don’t recall when these cracks first appeared but they’ve both been there for several years by now.

Thoughts? Any actions I could/should be taking at this point?

[Pilgrim]

The one at the bottom of the neck doesn't bother me, but I don't like the one behind the nut. However, the direction is directly across the grain (as far as I can tell from the picture), and wood just doesn't normally crack like that, so logic tells me that it is highly unlikely to actually be a crack in the wood. My guess is that it's a finish crack, not something that extends into the wood. But I'd sure keep an eye on it.

Maybe someone here has seen one like it...I'll keep watching to see if a more helpful reply comes in.

[jaywa]

Pilgrim -

I had been thinking the one by the nut might just be a finish crack... which would explain why it is more easily seen than felt. The neck is definitely lacquered (or whatever they did to those necks back in the day) so maybe that's all it is.

Thanks for your thoughts, hope to hear from others as well.

[walterw]

i'm thinking the one by the nut is just finish (don't sweat it), while the one at the end is real, maybe created by pressure from the truss rod nut.

[jaywa]

So, is the one over the truss rod something to worry about or am I OK as long as it doesn't go any further up the neck?

[202dy]

Originally Posted by jaywa

So, is the one over the truss rod something to worry about or am I OK as long as it doesn't go any further up the neck?

Worry? No.

Address? Yes.

It could get worse. Or not. If it does, it will cause the last fret to hump.

This is a pretty simple repair. The idea is to stabilize the crack. CA glue is the adhesive of choice.

1. Remove neck from body.
2. Wax off anything that you do not want glue to stick to.
3. This does not include the area between the last fret and the end of the neck.
4. Wick liquid thin CA glue into crack.
5. Allow to cure.
6. Scrape and/or file the excess glue on the fingerboard.
7. Finish leveling and rub out with sandpaper. Start with 400-600 depending and move to 2000 grit. Do not skip grits!
8. Buff out with automotive rubbing compounds.
9. Reassemble, set up, and play.

This repair will be invisible under normal light.

A razor blade scraper is the best tool to use for leveling the excess glue. Take a single edge razor blade and run the edge along a very hard surface. Screw driver handles are sometimes hard enough. Carbide rods are excellent. The idea is to draw the edge into a "J" shape. The blade is used with two hands to scrape little sheets of finish or glue to level a surface. It is handy and quick.

A last comment. The images do not show the end of the neck. We assume that the crack is actually in the wood. If the crack is merely a finish crack, none of the above is really necessary.

[RustyAxe]

Neither one would bother me in the least. The one near the nut looks like finish checking. The one at the truss rod adjuster looks like the wood may have been stressed (someone use the wrong tool for the job?) but if it stops at the fret then it's not very deep.

[jaywa]

202, thank you for the tips.

I have to admit, I am very reluctant to take off the neck. It has only been off the bass once in its life, for an "overhaul" done by a professional 10 years ago and at that time I know he put in some shims. I would hate to get the shimming wrong on re-assembly and screw up what has been a rock-solid perfect set-up. I will give it some consideration, though.

Is there any reason I couldn't do the repair you described without removing the neck?

[MglMatador]

Is there any reason I couldn't do the repair you described without removing the neck?

Given the viscosity of thin CA, if not removed the neck will probably become permanent that that point.

[jaywa]

I see.

[giacomini]

The one close to the headstock looks like a finish crack. The other I can't tell, pic is blurry!

my .02

[202dy]

Originally Posted by jaywa

202, thank you for the tips.

I have to admit, I am very reluctant to take off the neck. It has only been off the bass once in its life, for an "overhaul" done by a professional 10 years ago and at that time I know he put in some shims. I would hate to get the shimming wrong on re-assembly and screw up what has been a rock-solid perfect set-up. I will give it some consideration, though.

Is there any reason I couldn't do the repair you described without removing the neck?

Basic premise: Set ups on guitars are like tune ups on cars. They're meant to be done periodically. And before computers were in cars, anyone could do them. There is no computer on a a guitar that controls set up. Everyone who plays at the intermediate level or better should know how to do it. Sometimes a car will run for a hundred thousand miles without needing that tune up. Most won't.

Can you do it without removing the neck? Absolutely. Is it advisable? Probably not. The chance of a little bit of CA seeping into the neck pocket and making a "permanent" bond is low. The chance of it seeping on to something else that you don't want it on is great. What ever it touches will have to be cleaned. It won't be fun. And it could have a negative effect on the value of a cool vintage piece.

So on balance, if you need to do a set up you'll need a couple of screw drivers, some feeler gauges, a ruler, and some patience. None of which will affect the value of the guitar. If you have a CA glue mishap, you'll need scrapers, files, abrasives and polishes. And the possible loss of value.

Choice is yours.

One last caveat: If you haven't worked with CA glue, be advised that it bonds just about anything to anything else. That includes you to what ever is heavy or immobile. When you buy the glue, buy a bottle of solvent, too.

[bassbully]

Both IMO look minor. The neck one is finish only and the second lower one i would keep an eye on but don't think its going far.

[Chasarms]

Originally Posted by jaywa

. . . I don’t recall when these cracks first appeared but they’ve both been there for several years by now. . .

That tells me all I need to know. I'd leave it alone.