Critique this site for defretting you bass.

Fire-Starter · #1 07-06-2009, 02:59 AM

I thought it was pretty good, but I bet it may not be as easy going as it looks. Who knows?

http://www.geocities.com/charlesarms/

Fajah · #2 07-06-2009, 06:11 AM

It covers the basic steps very well with the following exceptions. I would not defret a neck while still attached to the body. The nut should be removed to allow for proper sanding later on in the process. I would use proper fret pullers as opposed to a screwdriver as shown on page 2. I would also exercise caution the use of a hammer to tap the strips down as shown on page 6. Hardwood veneer trips are very thin and tend to split along the grain very easily. There is a chance that the split can occur below the surface of the fretboard which would require replacement or repair.

The process of defretting a bass is actually pretty easy. What's missing from the site is the subsequent setup of your bass after the job has been done. The nut will have to be reworked to compensate for the lack of frets and your neck may need a slight shim depending on the original setup of the bass. You may find that you can't get the action as low as you may like because the saddles are bottoming out.

HogieWan · #3 07-06-2009, 06:26 AM

I used that guide as one resource when i defretted my bass.

I will add this. When you start to sand the line markers, side across the board, with the grain of the inserts until you are nearly flush with the board. Otherwise the inserts will break off at the grain and it may take out some material below the fingerboard surface. I have one spot like this. It is not noticeable or worth the hassle to repair it, but I wish I would have known how to avoid it.

Fire-Starter · #4 07-06-2009, 11:35 AM

Would not it be a lot simpler to just use epoxy? same results without the drama of the strips..yes?????

bongomania · #5 07-06-2009, 11:43 AM

I'm pretty sure "chasarms" is a TB'er.

HogieWan · #6 07-06-2009, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fire-Starter

Would not it be a lot simpler to just use epoxy? same results without the drama of the strips..yes?????

not exactly

First he wood fills in the grooves so that the neck doesn't want to bow. Yes a truss rod could adjust, but why crank it more than necessary or chance running out of room later.

Second - for aesthetics. My bass has dot inlays. I would rather have a blank board, but removing the dots is out of the question, and dots with no (or unnoticeable) lines looks silly. The lines make the board look "right".

Pilgrim · #7 07-07-2009, 09:23 PM

I take major exception to using a screwdriver to remove the frets - that is NOT a good way to do it. I also think that more thought is needed before using a hacksaw blade to use to chase the fret lines - I use a craft saw with a blade .022 thick so that I can use styrene strips which are .020 thick. But most of his techniques are pretty reasonable. I like to take more care and be more meticulous than the website suggests.

Craig_S · #8 07-07-2009, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

I like to take more care and be more meticulous than the website suggests.

As you should.

Nordskov · #9 07-09-2009, 01:40 AM

I did the defret exactly as described with screwdriver, tape and superglue, and it worked like a charm. No major chip-offs and no marks on the board from the driver.
I removed the neck from the body because it was more handy.

I am at the point of filling the slots. For this I will expand the slots with a hacksaw and use a bright veneer to fill them. I will use a sharp chisel to cut the veneer flush to the board.
For coating I would like to use System Three Mirror Image, but I haven't found a retailer in Denmark, so I'll look for something similar.