Cutting into my bass!!!

[bass4nds]

So,
I want to drop a stingray humbucker into my p-bass, in the 'stingray position' right above the bridge. What would you guys recommend using to cut the hole for the pickup (I have no router... ) the p-bass body is unfinished, so I won't be cutting through paint or anything... any help would be great!
-Jake

[tplyons]

Router. There's a reason they make 'em.

Anyone who knows what they're doing will tell you: use the right tool for the job.

It's like using a knife for a screwdriver, you're going to screw something up.

[Tony G]

You need a router to do this cleanly, so I suggest you get one.

[greenboy]

Sawzall?



Really, a router is the tool for the job. Buy, rent, or borrow one, or have someone who knows what the hey do it for you. Templates for common pups are available at Stew Mac and a few other places.

[Passinwind]

Originally Posted by bass4nds

So,
What would you guys recommend using to cut the hole for the pickup (I have no router... )

A luthier.

Seriously, if you have to ask about this, don't mess with it yourself.

[saxnbass]

Originally Posted by Passinwind

A luthier.

Seriously, if you have to ask about this, don't mess with it yourself.

I do have to agree.

[superjesus]

well, i will assume that you do not want the new humbucker to be surrounded by a custom pickguard. a router would be the correct tool to use in this case. a plunge router would be an even better idea. a pickup jig and a shaft-bearing straight bit will be needed as well.

if you are gifted with franciscian monk-like patience and a neurosurgeon's steady hand, you could get away with using:

1. a Dremel-type rotary tool with a plunge router base (and the appropriate bit) - i actually prefer the dremel to a router for smaller jobs.
2. a drill press - do not try to use a drill press as a mcguyvered overhead pin router table!!!! use it ONLY for drilling.
3. a good set of chisels. chisels are the hand tool equivalent of a router (in this case). there is an art to successfully using chisels. do not be ignorant of this.

i can't stress enough that it is important that you be skilled in using any of the above mentioned tools before actually attempting to modify your bass on your own. I have listed these ideas simply as recommendations to you. attempting to use any of these tools or techniques is at your own risk.

if you do plan on covering up your route job with a pickguard, you could scrape the wood out of the pocket with a knife. not the quickest, cleanest, or most efficient method, but sooner or later, you'll get the job done.


overall, it will be cheaper, easier and safer for you to commission a luthier or skilled repairman to route the pocket for your new pickup.

and once again, remember kids, BE CAREFUL!!!

[greenboy]

I still recommend getting help.

[All_¥our_Bass]

^ LOL

[202dy]

Originally Posted by superjesus

well, i will assume that you do not want the new humbucker to be surrounded by a custom pickguard. a router would be the correct tool to use in this case. a plunge router would be an even better idea. a pickup jig and a shaft-bearing straight bit will be needed as well.

if you are gifted with franciscian monk-like patience and a neurosurgeon's steady hand, you could get away with using:

1. a Dremel-type rotary tool with a plunge router base (and the appropriate bit) - i actually prefer the dremel to a router for smaller jobs.
2. a drill press - do not try to use a drill press as a mcguyvered overhead pin router table!!!! use it ONLY for drilling.
3. a good set of chisels. chisels are the hand tool equivalent of a router (in this case). there is an art to successfully using chisels. do not be ignorant of this.

i can't stress enough that it is important that you be skilled in using any of the above mentioned tools before actually attempting to modify your bass on your own. I have listed these ideas simply as recommendations to you. attempting to use any of these tools or techniques is at your own risk.

if you do plan on covering up your route job with a pickguard, you could scrape the wood out of the pocket with a knife. not the quickest, cleanest, or most efficient method, but sooner or later, you'll get the job done.


overall, it will be cheaper, easier and safer for you to commission a luthier or skilled repairman to route the pocket for your new pickup.

and once again, remember kids, BE CAREFUL!!!

All good advice, superjesus. A few extra caveats for the uninitiated:

1. Practice on scrap! Find some similar scrap lumber to practice on. If you have an ash body some scrap oak will give you a better idea what a router is capbable of doing and the potential damage that can be inflicted from misuse. Scrap oak can be found for next to nothing in the form of scrap hardwood flooring from a residential construction site. Just ask the guys there if you can pick through the scrap pile. Also practice on some spruce/pine/fir framing lumber. While it's not as dense as alder it will approximate the feel of moving the tool through that material. And since it is an inch and a half thick it is much like working in a guitar body. It allows you to practice making passes.

2. Unlike some lizards' tails your fingertips do not grow back. Router bits move at speeds from 6000-20,000 rpm. They also have no brains. They don't say to themselves, "Oh, that's a human finger. I can't cut that!". Unless you feature being called "Stumpy" for the rest of your life be absolutely sure you are able to concentrate on the job at hand. If you are tired, fatigued from working all day, distracted, just had an argument, etc. do not attempt this work. A good friend of mine, an able bassist closing in on age 50 took off his left index finger to the first knuckle thirty years ago during an encounter with a table saw. Said he was thinking about the gig coming up that night. He still uses that finger but mostly uses the other three because it hurts to play with that pointed stump. Also says he feels pretty stupid about the entire affair.

3. Practice on scrap! The mistakes you find that you make in the scrap will look better on the scrap wood than it will on your beloved bass.

4. If you can find a template for your pickup buy it and use it. Using a top bearing bit will allow you to cut an exact hole to the shape you want. It also gives the router base a surface to ride on rather than on the lacquered top of your guitar. If you cannot find a template for your pickup, make one.

5. Practice on scrap! Just because a bit is brand new doesn't mean that it will do the job the way you think it will. Once, many years ago, a brand new bit from Stew-Mac was chucked up in one of my smaller routers. I was adding a J pup to a P bass that belonged to one of my students. When the new cavity was completed I moved the router out of the work only to find that the bearing had destroyed itself during the session. The damage to the bass cost several hours and a new paint job on his bass, all gratis. Stew-Mac sent out a new bit and offered to pay for the work. They were then and still remain some of the best guys.

6. When routing, stop occasionally and vacuum out the chunks and dust. That will allow you to inspect the work you have performed.

7. Practice on scrap! If you do not have a plunge router it will give you the opportunity to figure out how to start a blind hole by tilting the router into the work piece.

8. Work in steps. On the first pass only set the bit depth so that the bearing is guided by the template, no further. After the first pass make another one at greater depth. It will take three or more passes to complete this project.

9. Pratice on scrap! It just may be that once you've practice that you will decide to take it to a pro. That will still be cheaper than taking it to one after screwing up the job.

10. After fininshing the routing and removing the template take a fine cut file and slightly chamfer the edge of the new hole. This will prevent the paint or clear coat from chipping.

11. Practice on scrap!!!

[Scott in Dallas]

Originally Posted by 202dy

If you do not have a plunge router it will give you the opportunity to figure out how to start a blind hole by tilting the router into the work piece.

Do people actually do this? Is drilling a hole for sissies?

Forstner bits are cheap, especially when compared to a new guitar body or a visit to the hospital.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Scott in Dallas

Do people actually do this? Is drilling a hole for sissies?

Forstner bits are cheap, especially when compared to a new guitar body or a visit to the hospital.

Yup. They sure do. It's standard ops for a number of router tasks including mortising. Drilling a hole just adds another step to the procedure. Especially considering the amount of real estate available on a Music Man pup for the maneuver. Nothing wrong with using a Forstner bit for a starting hole. For many folks it is just the ticket to insure a clean, problem free job. Ergo, good advice.


BTW, posession of a Forstner is truly a mark of one's virility. ; )

[pkr2]

If you have to buy a router and a bit just to install one pup, it's not cost effective. Even with a low end router, at around $100.00 plus a bit that costs $35.00 and up, that's $135.00 before you start.

If it's your first time with a router it's absolutely essential that you get some one on one instruction. Unless you are luckier than most, your first attempt probably wont make you happy.

An electric router is not really a primary tool for mortising. It becomes more a mortising tool when it's a plunge router. by the way you are making a "mortise" when you cut the cavity.

The reason it's not the primary tool is because it can't make the square corners. If you are skillful enough with a chisel and mallet to square the corners, you are skillful enough to chisel the cavity.

A chisel goes slowly enough that accidents to the wood are minimized, not to mention fingers.

What you may think of as a long tedious job with a chisel goes really quickly if you hog most of the wood out with a forstner or even cheaper, a bradpoint bit.
A collar stop on the bit keeps each hole the exact depth.

With a well sharpened chisel, You could easily do it in 45 minutes and stop for a cup of coffee while youre doing it.


You know, there weren't any power tools used on the Strads.

[Trevorus]

Originally Posted by pkr2

If you have to buy a router and a bit just to install one pup, it's not cost effective. Even with a low end router, at around $100.00 plus a bit that costs $35.00 and up, that's $135.00 before you start.

If it's your first time with a router it's absolutely essential that you get some one on one instruction. Unless you are luckier than most, your first attempt probably wont make you happy.

An electric router is not really a primary tool for mortising. It becomes more a mortising tool when it's a plunge router. by the way you are making a "mortise" when you cut the cavity.

The reason it's not the primary tool is because it can't make the square corners. If you are skillful enough with a chisel and mallet to square the corners, you are skillful enough to chisel the cavity.

A chisel goes slowly enough that accidents to the wood are minimized, not to mention fingers.

What you may think of as a long tedious job with a chisel goes really quickly if you hog most of the wood out with a forstner or even cheaper, a bradpoint bit.
A collar stop on the bit keeps each hole the exact depth.

With a well sharpened chisel, You could easily do it in 45 minutes and stop for a cup of coffee while youre doing it.


You know, there weren't any power tools used on the Strads.

I did a battery box in a guitar with chisels. It turned out very nicely. I do recommend this if you have a nice SHARP set of chisels. You still must be cautious of your hands, but it doesn't have that whole spinning shaft of digit death going on. And again, practice on scrap. For real. You can even get blocks of kiln dried woods at some hardware stores cheap that will give you some idea of what it's like to chisel into ash, or alder, or what have you.

I would still use a template, and use a forstner bit to remove most of the material, as it makes the whole job a TON easier. Just go slow, and be really patient.

[pkr2]

Originally Posted by Trevorus

I did a battery box in a guitar with chisels. It turned out very nicely. I do recommend this if you have a nice SHARP set of chisels. You still must be cautious of your hands, but it doesn't have that whole spinning shaft of digit death going on. And again, practice on scrap. For real. You can even get blocks of kiln dried woods at some hardware stores cheap that will give you some idea of what it's like to chisel into ash, or alder, or what have you.

I would still use a template, and use a forstner bit to remove most of the material, as it makes the whole job a TON easier. Just go slow, and be really patient.

+1 on the chisel being sharp. A dull chisel is a abomination to work with.

There is a method called "scary sharp" that uses progressively finer grades of emory cloth to sharpen hand tools. I recommend it highly. I would think a google search would turn it up.