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  #1  
Old 12-10-2007, 05:12 AM
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cutting a new scratchplate from a blank??

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hi

any tips / tricks for cutting a new shape scratchplate from a blank -

I'm guessing a fine toothed saw??

what about achieving the bevelled edge? any way of doing this??


s
  #2  
Old 12-10-2007, 07:36 AM
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Some background:

In a pro shop setting the pickguard material is fastened to a template with double sided tape and cut on a router table outfitted with a bearing bit. It is then beveled the same way on a table with a bevel bit installed. The template has cutouts for the pickups. A hand-held router is employed to remove the material.

It is a doable project by hand if the pickguard does not have a cutout for a pickup. Trace the shape onto the blank. A number of different tools can be used. A favorite of many is an Exacto knife. Use a coping saw with a 20 TPI blade installed for a relatively smooth cut. Install the blade so that it cuts on the pull stroke. This way will allow for greater control. The material is most easily cut if it is moved to the edge of the bench so that only a half an inch or so is overhanging. This decreases the amount the material will flex. Chucking the material up in a vise with padded jaws with the same idea in mind works even better. Work as closely to the line as possible.

When the shape is completed is time to refine the curves and make the bevel. This is done with a scraper. Regular, sharp woodworking scrapers can be employed. A fine, sharp scraper can be fabricated from a single edge razor blade. Take the blade and run it across a hard burnisher so as to form a micro J hook from the edge. This is the working edge. Fair the curves down to the line using the scraper. When the curves and edges are done the bevel is installed using the scraper the same way.

N.B. If this is the first time you are using a scraper on plastic material it is best to practice on scrap to get the feel of the tool moving through the material. Repeat the mantra. Practice on scrap.

The pickup cutout complicates things. Pickup cutouts are tricky. A hole can be drilled in the pickguard material and the coping saw blade inserted in the hole. The profile can be cut out and refined with a files and a scraper. However, it is very difficult to finish the hole and have parallel lines at the proper dimensions for the pickup. Unless one has very good hand skills it is likely that the results will look less than professional.

The easiest way to do them is with a commercial template and a router or Dremel tool. This is expensive for a one-off pickguard. It can be done by hand but the time and frustration make purchasing the pickguard from a supplier very attractive.
  #3  
Old 12-10-2007, 08:39 AM
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I agree. Unless you are going to buy the right tools, it's probably more practical to send the original guard or a tracing/template to a custom pickguard maker and select the material you want.
  #4  
Old 12-10-2007, 08:56 AM
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I did a tutorial on this subject and posted it to the Luthier's Forum

all the best,

R
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  #5  
Old 12-11-2007, 06:27 AM
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cheers guys

I'm just experimenting at the moment - nothing too serious

I'm just exploring different pickup options for my two cheapo basses (Bronco and EB0) and want to produce some new scratchplates for them

alternatively - if anyone knows of EB and Bronco scratchplate suppliers - please save me a lot of work!

s
  #6  
Old 12-11-2007, 06:33 AM
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If you have an original pickguard you can send a tracing to WD and they will quote the price and fabricate it the material of your choice.
  #7  
Old 12-11-2007, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodent View Post
I did a tutorial on this subject and posted it to the Luthier's Forum

R
Got a link? It doesn't seem to be a sticky.....
  #8  
Old 12-12-2007, 07:30 AM
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I detail my steps for the new pickguard in this thread

making a custom pickguard - how to steps

this was for a bass I assembled in this thread

Building a bass from parts - customizing a pre-finished body/neck

all the best,

R
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  #9  
Old 12-12-2007, 11:56 AM
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Thanks for the links!

I also note that you use a Shopsmith - I have the Shopsmith my dad originally bought at Carr Hardware in Ames, Iowa in 1954. Cost him $276 including the optional rolling casters. Those Shopsmiths are pretty incredible tool! I inherited some nice Forstner bits from him as well.

My, how prices have changed!

And I just picked up a Shopsmith bandsaw on Ebay - haven't gotten it set up yet.

Last edited by Pilgrim : 12-12-2007 at 03:43 PM.
  #10  
Old 12-12-2007, 01:01 PM
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Great job, Rodent.
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