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01-30-2007, 05:42 AM
| | | | cutting pickguard material
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Hello,
I have a question and I can use your help, if it's not too much trouble. Where I live it is practically impossible to have a custom pickguard made. They sell the pickguard material but they don't cut it for you. So I guess I'll have to do it myself. What tools (preferably household tools) can I use to cut the pickguard material into the shape I want? How will I open screw holes in it?
Thanks for your help and cheers all | 
01-30-2007, 07:45 AM
| | | | Getting a coping saw with a blade that can cut plastic. But, first, make a paper template of the design that you want. Then, transfer it to the pickguard by drawing the outline of the template onto the material. Then, rough cut out the design with the coping saw then, with a file, smooth out the edges. Make another template with the screw holes then transfer that info to the material. For the screw sizes, you may have to do a search on wood screws or better yet, if you have existing wood screws, take 'em to a hardware store and let them size it for you. Then, buy a drill bit for that screw size. You may have to countersink holes so that the top of the screw is flush with the top of the pickguard. | 
01-30-2007, 09:10 AM
| | | That was very helpful! I need to find a coping saw with a blade that cuts plastic.
I think I already have the rest. Thanks so much! | 
01-30-2007, 09:17 AM
|  | Life is Tough. Laugh more. Moderator | | Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Warwick, Rhode Island, USA | | | Often, tools for these kind of projects are available from
Hobby shops that sell plastic airplane and train models.
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01-30-2007, 12:01 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Chicago | | | In addition to a coping saw, I've used a variable speed sabre saw (hand held jig saw). I rest the pickguard material on a scrap piece of wood and hold the cutting line very, very close to the edge of the wood to get good support.
Like others, I use a file to do the final shaping (a half round file allows me to get the inside corners well). Then, I add a bevel with the same file. Go easy, a little at a time and sneak up on the right amount of reveal.
Good luck!
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01-30-2007, 01:13 PM
|  | Life is Tough. Laugh more. Moderator | | Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Warwick, Rhode Island, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyB_from_LZ In addition to a coping saw, I've used a variable speed sabre saw (hand held jig saw). I rest the pickguard material on a scrap piece of wood and hold the cutting line very, very close to the edge of the wood to get good support.
Like others, I use a file to do the final shaping (a half round file allows me to get the inside corners well). Then, I add a bevel with the same file. Go easy, a little at a time and sneak up on the right amount of reveal.
Good luck! | That is fun to try on your wife or g/f as well.
__________________ Hardly Ever Sarcastic Moderator of
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01-30-2007, 02:54 PM
| | | LOL. I can attest to that
Money is a bit short at the time. Maybe next week I'll go buy me some black pickguard material and the aforementionned tools and see how it goes. I'll let you know of the results to my experiment. Again, thanks for your help
Cheers | 
01-30-2007, 02:57 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Chicago | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor That is fun to try on your wife or g/f as well. | A life skill is a life skill...
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01-30-2007, 03:25 PM
| | | | I'd use the hand held coping saw if you don't have some experience with the electric jig saws. They can get away from you easily if you're not vigilant and ruin the work. If you do use one, cut at a slower speed and make sure the material is well supported. Glenn W's method is a good one.
The hand saw is slower, but easier to get it right. I've used both methods. | 
01-31-2007, 04:39 AM
| | | | Pickguard material is pretty tough stuff. It would be unusual for it to be brittle. It responds well to being cut by power tools. The bandsaw is my tool of choice for roughing in a pickguard shape. Files and rasps come next. For the final bevel use a razor blade scraper. As far as screw holes go, regular twist drills work well but a step drill like a unibit does a better job and quicker.
If you have to make multiple pickguards then making plex or hardboard templates and using a router table is the way to go.
Last edited by 202dy : 01-31-2007 at 09:47 PM.
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01-31-2007, 08:52 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Corsicana, Texas | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 202dy If you have to make multiple pickguards then making plex or hardboard templates and using a router table are the way to go. | I was thinking this may be the most accurate way. That is, of course, assuming that you can get the template perfect.
For those of us that are lazy, does anyone have any thoughts of using a sanding station instead of files to clean up the edges? | 
01-31-2007, 10:21 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Chicago | | Quote:
Originally Posted by stubi19 ...For those of us that are lazy, does anyone have any thoughts of using a sanding station instead of files to clean up the edges? | I would think that it would work fine! I had some plastic cabinet nameplates made at OfficeMax. Since they only do certain sizes and the font was lost in a sea of background, I trimmed them down to look better.
I used a coping saw to get close to the line and then a sandpaper covered board to finish the edges. A drum sander in a drill press or a table sander would handle the curves quite easily.
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01-31-2007, 07:23 PM
| | | | Drum sanders work if you're careful. If you are not, the sanding drum will melt the plastic. Then you will have a new set of difficulties. Sanding drums aren't much faster than using files. Make sure you have one of those crepe sanding belt cleaners to clean up the drum as they tend to load up quickly. You'll also need several grits.
Generally, I prefer to work with files to refine the profile of a one-off pickguard. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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