Defret Scare

[Rock-Bassman]

I just defretted my Ibanez GSR 190, and it came out fine other than being ugly. I just read that I should radius the fingerboard, but I didn't and it buzzes a ton on certaint spots, and only on some strings. The action blows, but thats okay with me, but heres my question- should I be concerned with the buzzin I hear or will it go away once I get it set up. The neck does have a decent sized bow to it...

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Rock-Bassman

I just defretted my Ibanez GSR 190, and it came out fine other than being ugly. I just read that I should radius the fingerboard, but I didn't and it buzzes a ton on certaint spots, and only on some strings. The action blows, but thats okay with me, but heres my question- should I be concerned with the buzzin I hear or will it go away once I get it set up. The neck does have a decent sized bow to it...

Couple of things come to mind.

First of all, the empty slots must be filled for proper neck stiffness. Stiffness is important in getting the truss rod to function properly. If the slots are not filled the job is not finished. Ergo, it does not buzz. Yet.

As far as truing the fingerboard goes, if it hasn't been done, there is no way to tell if it buzzes. The job is not finished. Ergo, it doesn't buzz. Yet.

If the slots are filled and the fingerboard is trued up but it's not set up, there is no way to tell if it buzzes. The job is not finished. Ergo, it does not buzz. Yet.

If all of the work has been completed and it still buzzes, post the set up data and someone here will be able to help you.

[ehque]

Also, is your action high because you haven't recut your nut? Most fretless basses have nuts cut such that the strings are just barely off the fingerboard at the nut end.

[Rock-Bassman]

ya I haven't done anything to the nut or truss rod. Sorry my op wasn't clear, but here it is in a nutshell:
1.Frets came out
2.Filled the slots
3.Epoxy the board
4.Buzz

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Rock-Bassman

ya I haven't done anything to the nut or truss rod. Sorry my op wasn't clear, but here it is in a nutshell:
1.Frets came out
2.Filled the slots
3.Epoxy the board
4.Buzz

If you haven't trued the surface of the epoxy there is no way to tell if it buzzes. The job is not finished. Ergo, it does not buzz. Yet.

[dmusic148]

Sure you're not equating 'mwah' with 'buzz?'

[202dy]

Originally Posted by dmusic148

Sure you're not equating 'mwah' with 'buzz?'

The OP cannot equate anything with anything. As far as we know, he hasn't surfaced the fingerboard nor has he performed a setup on the instrument. The conversion is not complete. There is no base line from which to draw any conclusions.

[Rock-Bassman]

Dude cmon! Are you like a machine? Ergo, Chill out! As to dmusic148, i know what buzz is and what mwahhh is though... here's my bottom line question: Should I be concerned? 202dy if you haven't got anything helpful, stop posting in this thread you're really ticking me off!

[bassteban]

I'd suggest reading a few of the defret threads- most questions like these have been asked & answered already. Also- not to agree w/Mr Ergo but if you only coated the board w/epoxy but have not sanded it smooth & true, you need to.

[WalterBush]

You need to radius the fingerboard. It's a production step that most manufacturers don't take when they're fretting an instrument--after all, the frets are what need a radius, not the fingerboard, on a fretted bass. Not doing it saves them dough, but it means that you have to do it after defretting. Also, cut the nut lower. Better yet, buy a nut blank and take the opportunity to upgrade while you're buying a radius block.

My defretted OLP played and sounded 100% better after I properly resurfaced and radiused the neck.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Rock-Bassman

Dude cmon! Are you like a machine? Ergo, Chill out! As to dmusic148, i know what buzz is and what mwahhh is though... here's my bottom line question: Should I be concerned? 202dy if you haven't got anything helpful, stop posting in this thread you're really ticking me off!

You haven't posted any specs. Ergo, no one can help you in your quest to bring the instrument into compliance. We can only guess as to the problems.

It's sort of like hiding something behind your back and saying, "Guess what's in my hand?" and when no one guesses correctly you call them names.

You admitted to doing a sloppy job then decide to insult those who are trying to elicit the details or are coaxing you to finish the work correctly. Most of the folks here are pretty forgiving of bad manners. However, if you choose to take offense with the use of aphorisms, that is your business and a waste of bandwidth.

Please post data.

No one can help you until you do.

[Beej]

Originally Posted by 202dy

You haven't posted any specs. Ergo, no one can help you in your quest to bring the instrument into compliance. We can only guess as to the problems.

It's sort of like hiding something behind your back and saying, "Guess what's in my hand?" and when no one guesses correctly you call them names.

You admitted to doing a sloppy job then decide to insult those who are trying to elicit the details or are coaxing you to finish the work correctly. Most of the folks here are pretty forgiving of bad manners. However, if you choose to take offense with the use of aphorisms, that is your business and a waste of bandwidth.

Please post data.

No one can help you until you do.

Good lord, shut it...

Rock-Bassman, there are some excellent resources in the How-To section of the Luthiers' Corner that outline considerations when defretting. You'll find them here: New "How to" section

Defretting is not rocket science, its actually pretty straightforward. In your case, it might be helpful to radius the fingerboard, but usually its not the main issue - if it came with a radiused board, it still has one.

I'd be more concerned about ensuring your fingerboard is level along the length of it, and that your relief and string height at the bridge are accurate. If its set up there, and it still buzzes, then look at working the nut (lower the slots until you have about 2-3mm string height above the board).

Never mind "truing" the board, this work is fine enough where we needn't be concerned if the board is true; you can accurately ensure its level instead. "Trueness" in the construction industry is something that is discerned by eye when accurate measurement and placement are less relevant than having it "look" accurate. Like in aligning a fireplace in your living room, or lining up the first course of tiles in your bathroom. Who gives a damn if they are actually accurately measured if they look misaligned due to improper wall framing - that's when you want to make them "true", which refers to being lined up by eye...

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Beej

Good lord, shut it...

Rock-Bassman, there are some excellent resources in the How-To section of the Luthiers' Corner that outline considerations when defretting. You'll find them here: New "How to" section

Defretting is not rocket science, its actually pretty straightforward. In your case, it might be helpful to radius the fingerboard, but usually its not the main issue - if it came with a radiused board, it still has one.

I'd be more concerned about ensuring your fingerboard is level along the length of it, and that your relief and string height at the bridge are accurate. If its set up there, and it still buzzes, then look at working the nut (lower the slots until you have about 2-3mm string height above the board).

Never mind "truing" the board, this work is fine enough where we needn't be concerned if the board is true; you can accurately ensure its level instead. "Trueness" in the construction industry is something that is discerned by eye when accurate measurement and placement are less relevant than having it "look" accurate. Like in aligning a fireplace in your living room, or lining up the first course of tiles in your bathroom. Who gives a damn if they are actually accurately measured if they look misaligned due to improper wall framing - that's when you want to make them "true", which refers to being lined up by eye...

The term "truing the fingerboard" is synonymous with "leveling the fingerboard."

The stone mason works to an eighth of an inch. The carpenter will work to a sixteenth. Both are adequate to fool the eye. Neither is good enough to fool the string when it is vibrating along the length of the fingerboard.

Fingerboard leveling in a game of thousandths. It is not about the way something looks to the eye. A couple of thousandths of a inch out of level in the frets can and does cause buzzing. The same goes for a fretless fingerboard. If the fingerboard is not true it will buzz. Coating a fingerboard with epoxy changes everything. It is the epoxy that must now be level because it is the effective fingerboard surface. This is critical. It is not about the "look."

[Rock-Bassman]

THANK YOU I finally got my answer, going to radius the fretboard. Thanks agian to every one but 202dy... I can't completely understand your posts but thats okay...still a tb'er

[Beej]

Mod edit: please reread the usage agreement.

[Joshua]

Let me note here 2 issues:

1) In case there were any questions on the validity, 202dy's advice was spot on, and
2) Let's all remember rule #1, respect.

Since the OP is happy, this is closed unless someone pm's me a good reason to open it...