Defretted, epoxied bass with a heap of buzz.

905 · #1 08-21-2010, 10:06 AM

I have a Washburn 5-string bass which I bought a couple of years ago. It was not buzzing at all.

I defretted it, and put two layers of epoxy on. It was buzzing a bit, and I figured that comes from the neck being uneven (especially at the fretlines I could see small gaps in the epoxy coating). I thought I would sand it down a bit and fix it quickly.

Now, after sanding it, you could call it Buzz Lightyear. It's buzzing to the point where it's unplayable, and to be honest I would much prefer chopping it up with an axe and burning it in the fireplace, over repairing it.

However, I was thinking that I sanded down too much, and that maybe I should put on another layer of epoxy, to make the neck a little bit thicker (and sand it down with like 22,000 grit to make sure I don't screw it up).

I tried raising the action, but it is of no help. I also tried adjusting the saddle, but that does not help either.

I am thinking about slapping another layer of epoxy (or two...) on it, but I am very unsure about even touching this beast right now.

Any thoughts, tips, tricks, anything that might help, would be GREAT.

deliciouspesto · #2 08-21-2010, 11:29 AM

did you do the epoxy/sanding with the truss rods totally disabled? Can you tell where the buzzing happens?

905 · #3 08-21-2010, 11:49 AM

I've never touched a truss rod in my life; the buzz happens pretty much everywhere. Where one might usually have a slightly dead note, I'll have a note that's slightly not dead.

deliciouspesto · #4 08-21-2010, 11:58 AM

I could be totally wrong here... but I think you kind of missed an important step.

I would take the neck off (if applicable), remove all tension from the truss rods, wait for the neck to get flat flat flat, and then do the work. When the work is done and the result is a flat epoxied neck when it is supposed to be flat, I would re-string and then re-tension the truss rods.

Pilgrim · #5 08-21-2010, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deliciouspesto

I could be totally wrong here... but I think you kind of missed an important step.

I would take the neck off (if applicable), remove all tension from the truss rods, wait for the neck to get flat flat flat, and then do the work. When the work is done and the result is a flat epoxied neck when it is supposed to be flat, I would re-string and then re-tension the truss rods.

Yes.

Until you create a perfect surface with no tension on the truss rod, I doubt that you will get satisfaction. You also need to do the board sanding with a correct radius sanding block - available from Stew-Mac. Don't try it with a flat piece of wood as your block.

905 · #6 08-21-2010, 01:22 PM

The bass is neck-through, so I will not be removing it (although it is a bit tempting).

So assuming that I can muster up the courage to adjust the truss rod (I have this image of a horribly warped neck coming to mind), how do I know if the neck is flat?

Yeah it sounds silly, but the neck seems pretty flat already. :s

Schlyder · #7 08-21-2010, 01:28 PM

You may need a new nut. The slots may now be too close to the fingerboard now that you have added epoxy.

Hookus · #8 08-21-2010, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 905

So assuming that I can muster up the courage to adjust the truss rod (I have this image of a horribly warped neck coming to mind), how do I know if the neck is flat?

If you don't have the courage to adjust a truss, then you most certainly have no business trying to epoxy coat the board.

Check to make sure it is flat with a straightedge.

Applying epoxy has a much higher screw-up factor than loosening a truss rod, and tightening it to setup specs. That won't damage anything.

Hookus · #9 08-21-2010, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schlyder

You may need a new nut. The slots may now be too close to the fingerboard now that you have added epoxy.

Would not matter once a note is fretted. Nut problems show up with intonation and open string issues. If it buzzes when a note is fretted, I would look elsewhere first.

Jazzdogg · #10 08-21-2010, 08:28 PM

To solve a problem, the first step is to objectively assess the situation. So far all we have is descriptions that are too vague to be helpful.

At minimum, you'll need a high-quality straight edge at least 18" long, and a precision ruler. A set of feeler gauges can be helpful.

Place the straight edge on top of your fingerboard and see if it's back-bowed, flat, cupped, twisted, etc. If you can see daylight between the straight edge and the fingerboard, measure it and write it down.

Don't forget to measure the distance beneath each string.

Let us know what you find.

panama · #11 08-21-2010, 08:34 PM

Sounds like you've gone muckin' in a place you shouldn't been muckin in

draftsmann · #12 08-22-2010, 04:28 AM

Did you fill the fret slots with wood veneer or thin plastic?

If you did so, did you by any chance tap in fill pieces that were thicker / a tighter fit than the original fret tangs?

That would cause a back-bow - the opposite of relief - which would definitely cause buzzing.

JLS · #13 08-22-2010, 10:48 AM

then you most certainly have no business trying to epoxy coat the board."

Agreed! Analogy: "My car won't start, but I'm afraid to put gasoline in the tank".

That fingerboard has got to be worked on when it's flat. It's very likely that with all the messing around you've done, it's going to need some serious leveling, by someone who knows what he/she's doing.

JLS · #14 08-22-2010, 10:53 AM

"I defretted it, and put two layers of epoxy on. It was buzzing a bit, and I figured that comes from the neck being uneven (especially at the fretlines I could see small gaps in the epoxy coating). I thought I would sand it down a bit and fix it quickly.

Now, after sanding it, you could call it Buzz Lightyear. It's buzzing to the point where it's unplayable, and to be honest I would much prefer chopping it up with an axe and burning it in the fireplace, over repairing it.

However, I was thinking that I sanded down too much, and that maybe I should put on another layer of epoxy, to make the neck a little bit thicker (and sand it down with like 22,000 grit to make sure I don't screw it up). "

Ay yi yi, you're in way over your head. Stop digging the hole that you're at the bottom of. Really.

Hoffman6000 · #15 08-22-2010, 11:05 AM

Although I agree with everyone here, that you may be over your head, if you don't mind losing the bass (i.e. burning it), then look up the correct way of doing things, experiment, and try to fix it yourself...but don't be disappointed if you have to buy a new bass...otherwise, take it to a pro.