detuning a 6-string bass to A: what do i need to know?

[ideitbawx]

so i'm new to these forums but i'm looking for any input i can on this. Searching google hasn't given me much to go on. Anyways, here's what's going on:

I have a 6-string ibanez btb that i normally keep in standard tuning. For my current band, though, we have a few songs in drop D. Normally 3rd fret on the B can accomplish this, but i've opted to tune the lowest 2 strings down a full tone, making the tunung ADADGC, allowing for more keyboard-style playing and giving our 3-piece band a fuller, orchestral sound. For the sake of recording, i've been looking to get some thicker-gauge strings to emphasize the tone and take some of the clunkiness out of detuning the strings.

i need to know:

1) is there any benefit to a thicker gauge than what i already have? Right now i'm using a 100 gauge for the E and 130 for the B. D'addario makes a 110 and a 115 for the E and can go up to 145 for lower strings. If there is a benefit, what gauge is recommended for drop D and drop A tunings?

2) do i need to realign my bass in any way, shape or form? Bridge? Nut? Truss rods? Anything i haven't mentioned yet? I've only ever changed strings, i've never had to adjust anything so that every note is in tune. Is there any sort of math equation to figure out the perfect bridge height and scale distance? (i think that last question proves how little i know about the subject).

Any advice at all would be a huge benefit. A lot of the metal guys have to deal with this sort of thing, i imagine. We're more of a prog band, but our guitar player and i are hugely influenced by a lot of metal players.

Rock's not dead, it just went on vacation.
-the ideitbawx

[Fire-Starter]

I have all of my basses set that way. A Marcus Miller 5...A KSD 5 and 6. and A fretless 6. I had to re-adj the bridge and truss rod for the neck. Some change the nut, I have not had to. And I love it.

You may need a diff gage of strings, but only you and your experience will tell, or take it to a pro. I did all of mine myself.

p.s.s NOT TO MENTION YOUR NOTES ARE NOW A WHOLE STEP OFF ON THE NECK. : )

Peace.

[Mayers]

I think it kind of funny ... no one seems to try anymore ...

[knappymer]

I'm not too big on de-tuning my BTB6. It takes away from the instrument I think. If you're only going down 1 step, changing your gauge string won't really add any benefit other than giving your fretting hand some exercise and MAYBE giving you a little thicker of a sound. If you were going down like a step and a half then i'd probably say go with a thicker gauge.. but that would be silly.


+1 on what Mayers said.

[tylerwylie]

Originally Posted by Mayers

I think it kind of funny ... no one seems to try anymore ...

?

[Mulebagger]

I've detuned my Q6 on different occasions. It didn't require any different strings and still sounded great. Probably due to the 35" scale and carbon fiber neck. I liked the slinker feel to the strings. I believe I was using medium gauge DR Hi Beams at the time.

[Mulebagger]

You may also consider a couple hipshot d-tuners if your headstock can take it, unless you don't need to return to standard tuning. You may need to tweak your setup. If you don't know how you should learn because then your gear will always be in tip top shape and exactly how you like it.

[knuckle_head]

If I may suggest gauges;

.150 .112 .076 .057 .041 .023

This will give you similar tension as a .100 E string would have on each string.

There will be no more tension on this bass than your average set would subject it to and all you should need to do is have a new nut cut and tweak the truss rod a bit.

[ideitbawx]

Originally Posted by Mulebagger

You may also consider a couple hipshot d-tuners if your headstock can take it, unless you don't need to return to standard tuning. You may need to tweak your setup. If you don't know how you should learn because then your gear will always be in tip top shape and exactly how you like it.

i've actually thought about doing that. The BTB headstock is pretty beefy, so i'm sure it can be supported. Would it add a lot of extra tension?

I doubt they'd make a 1/2-step one for the rare occasion i tune the high C string to B, right?

It's good advice, to know how to tweak your own setup. Plus it saves you paying 40 bucks for someone else to do it for you. Thanks, man.

[DougD]

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

If I may suggest gauges;

.150 .112 .076 .057 .041 .023

This will give you similar tension as a .100 E string would have on each string.

There will be no more tension on this bass than your average set would subject it to and all you should need to do is have a new nut cut and tweak the truss rod a bit.

One of my favorite bassist Andrew Gouche tunes down to A and he uses standard gauge strings (or so he says). The only real difference it will make is that your strings will be a littler floppier but it actually feels good because you don't have to work as hard to play. I've done this and had good results, but I found out that I only needed the A tuning on occasion and it made standard stuff harder to play. So I went back to standard.

[ideitbawx]

Originally Posted by tylerwylie

?

that's kinda what i thought, too. But not a lot of mainstream players seem to, not a lot that i've noticed anyway.

Wait, i mean using alternate tunings. Everyone detunes these days.

one thing i've wanted to try is putting it in an open tuning like BF#BDF#B and playing 2nd guitar parts using the open strings. Listen to a song like Overemphasizing by Big Wreck and you'll hear what i mean.

[DougD]

Originally Posted by tylerwylie

?

I think he is trying to say just do it and find out what is what.

[Mayers]

Originally Posted by DougD

I think he is trying to say just do it and find out what is what.

You got it

[knuckle_head]

Originally Posted by DougD

One of my favorite bassist Andrew Gouche tunes down to A and he uses standard gauge strings (or so he says). The only real difference it will make is that your strings will be a littler floppier but it actually feels good because you don't have to work as hard to play. I've done this and had good results, but I found out that I only needed the A tuning on occasion and it made standard stuff harder to play. So I went back to standard.

The real difference in using 'normal' gauges to downtune is that you end up with strings at pitch with less tension than they were made with - you will get poor performance and tone out of your strings if you choose that direction.

The better part of using larger gauges is that you can play low/deep with the same technique you've always used. That they will have tone, definition and won't pitch dive on resolve are pluses as well.

[El-Bob]

I do this all the time. The only change you should need is slightly heavier gauges on the downtuned strings. Just go with what Knuckle Head posted

[DougD]

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

The real difference in using 'normal' gauges to downtune is that you end up with strings at pitch with less tension than they were made with - you will get poor performance and tone out of your strings if you choose that direction.

The better part of using larger gauges is that you can play low/deep with the same technique you've always used. That they will have tone, definition and won't pitch dive on resolve are pluses as well.

I guess that would depend on what kind of strings you are using. With the strings I use, they actually play and sound good tuned down. Actually they feel better because of the tension. But most of the stuff I do now is in standard so that's primarily what I use. IMHO.,YMMV

[knuckle_head]

Originally Posted by DougD

I guess that would depend on what kind of strings you are using

It really won't - a .105 is a .105 is a .105. Or whichever gauge you care to slug in there.

There might be differences in feel based on how the string was made but tension will be near-identical if gauges are the same even if made by different companies.

I understand if your preference is 30 pounds of tension or less - not a thing wrong with that and there are alot of guys that really dig it.

Conversely, there is nothing wrong with the tonal and tactile expectation of a low A string that feels and sounds like the .100 E string you're used to playing.

[greenboy]

I've played quite a few sets at that tuning, most of them "graduated balanced tension", as low as maybe 24-28 lbs per unit, to maybe 36-40 pounds per unit. Once you are close to balanced tension it's a lot easier to be technically consistent with the plucking hand, and then it's just fine-tune the bass setup and play a lot with that particular set so that it's second nature.

I seem to go back and forth between very light sets and medium sets, with a couple of stops in between - because just when I think I understand where I want to be, something else tugs on my coatsleeve. I like 'em all, and have no trouble getting deep but detailed sound out of any of 'em.

I'm just about done with all my string collection though and need to get some more from Knuck.

[Elrend]

Eh, you shouldn't really need to do anything, it's just a whole-step.

[DougD]

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

It really won't - a .105 is a .105 is a .105. Or whichever gauge you care to slug in there.

There might be differences in feel based on how the string was made but tension will be near-identical if gauges are the same even if made by different companies.

I understand if your preference is 30 pounds of tension or less - not a thing wrong with that and there are alot of guys that really dig it.

Conversely, there is nothing wrong with the tonal and tactile expectation of a low A string that feels and sounds like the .100 E string you're used to playing.

I've no idea of what you are talking about, but OK?