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07-18-2011, 11:11 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Georgia, United States | | | Do I need a new neck?
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My Warmoth body came in today. I popped my Warmoth neck that I bought (from eBay) in, and well... it seems a bit too tall. Is this okay?
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Last edited by bellis1 : 07-18-2011 at 11:16 AM.
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07-18-2011, 11:30 AM
|  | Everybody Wang Chung Tonight | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Houston Tx | | | I think its fine, it looks tall because there is no pickguard.
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07-18-2011, 11:42 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Quebec | | | You don't need a new neck, but you need to finish that bass as soone as possible to show us some pictures ! | 
07-18-2011, 12:02 PM
| | | Sorry for taking on the subject,but since we're talking about necks...
During my last performance a day or two ago,I noticed a gap between the fretboard and the neck of my 5-string,as you can see below.Can I do anything to fix this? how serious is it?  | 
07-18-2011, 12:11 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | I don't see any problem.
I just measured my all-Warmoth Jazz bass, and there is approximately 0.125" of space between the bottom of the fingerboard and the body, measuring from the bass-side of the neck pocket, just above the pickguard. Yours look to be about the same. | 
07-19-2011, 03:29 PM
| | | | Its only a problem if this results in fret board sitting too high for the bridge. I cant quite tell from the pic, but is it sitting with slight rearward tilt like it has a shim in ir or pocket was cut for same effect? This slight rearward tilt helps with low string action in my experience. And can also help when the bridge sits in such a way relatoive to neck that its impossible to get real low action. Spec what I mean about too high for bridge is that if you have to have the bridge saddles way up high so strings arent resting on the fretboard, then its a problem. A bridge with thicker bottom plate might be needed.
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07-19-2011, 03:33 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Albuquerque, NM | | | Looks just like every Warmoth bass I've built (about 5). I wouldn't worry about it at all. If it's a Warmoth neck on a Warmoth body, it WILL work just fine. | 
07-19-2011, 03:38 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Albuquerque, NM | | Quote:
Originally Posted by leonardobass Sorry for taking on the subject,but since we're talking about necks...
During my last performance a day or two ago,I noticed a gap between the fretboard and the neck of my 5-string,as you can see below.Can I do anything to fix this? how serious is it?  | What kind of bass is that?
A gap is not good, but is fixable if you can get glue into it. I'd probably use a thin superglue (available from Stewmac) with a needle syringe to get into the gap, then clamp it down for a day.
If you're not comfortable doing it, take it to a luthier. Either way, fix it before it starts lifting farther up the neck. | 
07-19-2011, 03:58 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lighthouse Point, FL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by bellis1 My Warmoth body came in today. I popped my Warmoth neck that I bought (from eBay) in, and well... it seems a bit too tall. Is this okay? | Looks good. This is why your bridge is adjustable. Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfreqgeek What kind of bass is that?
A gap is not good, but is fixable if you can get glue into it. I'd probably use a thin superglue (available from Stewmac) with a needle syringe to get into the gap, then clamp it down for a day.
If you're not comfortable doing it, take it to a luthier. Either way, fix it before it starts lifting farther up the neck. | Superglue is not reversible. I'd never encourage its use by an amateur. ONLY hide glue or Titebond #II. | 
07-19-2011, 04:30 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Albuquerque, NM | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebop Superglue is not reversible. I'd never encourage its use by an amateur. ONLY hide glue or Titebond #II. | I agree, but it depends entirely on the instrument and situation. Superglue isn't ideal, but I've used it with good success on an acoustic guitar who's fingerboard split near the nut when it was knocked over many years ago. The guitar is more or less worthless (a nearly 30 year old laminate Ibanez), so the thought of a reversable fix is kinda silly. That joint has held for well over 10 years. Super thin superglue was the only thing I could work deep into the joint without completely pulling the fingerboard and starting over.
However, I've also used Tightbond II on a bass neck who's fingerboard I later removed with heat and a butter knife. It came off rather well, but I had to be very careful.
If the bass has some value, it should be fixed properly. If it costs more to fix than it's worth, then superglue is a fine option that will fix the problem and not cost a lot. But you have to be extra careful to make sure the fingerboard is properly clamped down to the neck.
That's how I'd approach it, anyway.
Last edited by lowfreqgeek : 07-19-2011 at 04:32 PM.
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