Do I Need a Radius Gauge?

[selowitch]

A setup guide I'm reading suggests you cut out a set of radius gauges from plastic using a template.

Why would I need this if I'm not a repairman? I only own one bass, and it's a 2008-09 MIM Fender Jazz (so I can assume the radius is 7.25", right?). Why would I need a radius gauge? Does the radius of a bass ever change (No.)?

[Fetusyolk]

what does it say you use the gauge for...

[blackcolin]

You can use a radius gauge to set your saddles, and therefore the height of your strings in accordance with the radius of the fretboard, but you can also use a ruler to achieve the same thing.

[walterw]

(how's this for a quick reply ?)

i have never used a radius gauge for setting up an instrument. i use them all the time for fretboard leveling, nut-making and other actual repair-type stuff, but for setting up, all you need is a machinist's ruler to measure string heights off the fret. if the bottoms of all the strings are the same height off a fret, they will inherently have a radius that matches.

[Zooberwerx]

You can buy the silly things from stewmac.com. They come in handy when setting string height. IIRC, you set the G and E (or B) strings to spec. and use the radius gauge to set the remaining strings. I go by feel and my trusty pocket rule.

Riis

[Renaissance]

RTFM........and no, the radius of the neck doesn't change.

[selowitch]

I guess I should first found out for sure what the radius of my bass' fingerboard is. I *think* it's 7.25", but I wouldn't bet my life on it.

I'm using Jerzy Drozd's Ultimate Setup Guide, BTW.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by Renaissance

the radius of the neck doesn't change.

RTFOriginalPost. I said that.

[blackcolin]

I think the radius is actually 9.5.

[Renaissance]

Selowitch

In the OP, the radius comment was posted as a question - nonetheless I apologize for being so rude. It really wasn't my intent to be rude, just a quick post.

[202dy]

Need? No. You can use a rule on the last fret to achieve the same results.

If you do a lot of setups they save a lot of time. That adds up over the course of a year.

For those who want to fine tune from there it quickly establishes a base line from which to work.

[Benjamin Strange]

Originally Posted by selowitch

A setup guide I'm reading suggests you cut out a set of radius gauges from plastic using a template.

Need? Not unless want your setups to be absolutely perfect - and even then you don't need them if you don't know how to properly use them.

Don't bother cutting out a set of radius gauges out of plastic. That's a complete waste of time.

[Turnaround]

Do you need radius gauges? It depends on what you intend to do with them. Do you have a need to know what the radius of you fingerboard is? You may think so, but I would question why.

If it's a case of setting the string height to follow the fingerboard radius, I would question if this is advisable. The string distance from the fingerboard should increase with the thinkness of the string (i.e. the thicker the string, the further it should be from the fingerboard). So you don't really want to slavishly follow the fingerboard radius. By extension, if the thicker strings need to be a further distance from the fretboard than the thinner ones, the radius path of the strings will be greater than that of the fingerboard.

OTOH if you will be re-sanding it, then you need to determine the fingerboard's radius. But you probably will need radiused sanding blocks to do the job, so why do you also need radius gauges? The sanding blocks make excellent gauges.

[Benjamin Strange]

OTOH if you will be re-sanding it, then you need to determine the fingerboard's radius. But you probably will need radiused sanding blocks to do the job, so why do you also need radius gauges? The sanding blocks make excellent gauges.

No sanding block that I've ever seen, except for the $125 StewMac radiused aluminum beam, are accurate at all. Wooden radius blocks are often not true even when they are made - and since they're wood, they're prone to warping and shifting with humidity and temperature changes.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by Renaissance

Selowitch

In the OP, the radius comment was posted as a question - nonetheless I apologize for being so rude. It really wasn't my intent to be rude, just a quick post.

No problem. And I don't really think you were being rude.

Originally Posted by blackcolin

I think the radius is actually 9.5.

You see? I really do need a radius gauge, then.

BTW, don't some necks, like those made by Warmoth, have a compound radius (i.e., one that is different at different points on the neck)?

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by Benjamin Strange

No sanding block that I've ever seen, except for the $125 StewMac radiused aluminum beam, are accurate at all. Wooden radius blocks are often not true even when they are made - and since they're wood, they're prone to warping and shifting with humidity and temperature changes.

Even with a cheap sanding block that has drifted from true you will be able to distinguish between all the common radii (and lots of the uncommon ones as well). And even if I could determine very accurately what the radius of a particular fingerboard is, what good would it do me? As I said, it depends in what I want to do with the information. If what I want to do is to set my string heights, the precise number associated with fretboard radius is irrelevant. The distance of each string from the fingerboard is the critical factor, regardless of the actual number associated with the board radius.

[JLS]

Originally Posted by selowitch

A setup guide I'm reading suggests you cut out a set of radius gauges from plastic using a template.

Why would I need this if I'm not a repairman? I only own one bass, and it's a 2008-09 MIM Fender Jazz (so I can assume the radius is 7.25", right?). Why would I need a radius gauge? Does the radius of a bass ever change (No.)?

You don't. They're one of Stewmac's solutions looking for a problem, like that sillyass "Nut Slotting Gauge".

Caveat: Many, many of their tools are invaluable, the string spacing rule, nut seating files, and fret fitter, to name a few. I'm not a Stewmac basher, by any means, but I do call them, as I see them.

[JLS]

Originally Posted by blackcolin

You can use a radius gauge to set your saddles, and therefore the height of your strings in accordance with the radius of the fretboard, but you can also use a ruler to achieve the same thing.

Or, for that matter, the eyes you were born with!

[seanm]

I once made some radius gauges out of heavy poster board. Worked fine for setting strings. You just want to rough it in anyway.

[ga_edwards]

Originally Posted by Turnaround

Do you need radius gauges? It depends on what you intend to do with them. Do you have a need to know what the radius of you fingerboard is? You may think so, but I would question why.

If it's a case of setting the string height to follow the fingerboard radius, I would question if this is advisable. The string distance from the fingerboard should increase with the thinkness of the string (i.e. the thicker the string, the further it should be from the fingerboard). So you don't really want to slavishly follow the fingerboard radius. By extension, if the thicker strings need to be a further distance from the fretboard than the thinner ones, the radius path of the strings will be greater than that of the fingerboard.

What you do in this case is set the correct height for the top and bottom strings, allowing more room for movement for the lower string, then use the radius gauge to set the strings inbetween. Thus you have the same radius, just 'off kilter' so to speak. I've found this to be quicker than measuring every string, esp so when setting up an extended range bass.

The other question that remains it what type of gauge. If it the guide I think it is, there's two kind. One design for the top side of the strings, and one for the underside. I would use the latter as it more accurately set the part of the string that comes into contact with the neck (ok, frets!)