drilling clean preamp switch holes through a poly finish - suggestions?

[fourstringbliss]

I've got a Lakland 55-01 and I want to install an Audere 3ZB preamp in it. I want the controls to be:

volume
blend
bass
mid
treble
Z-mode switch
mid frequency switch

which means I need a new hole for each switch. The body wood is swamp ash and the finish is poly.

How can I drill these holes cleanly? Suggestions?

Thanks!

[kevinmoore73]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

How can I drill these holes cleanly?

Should be easy. Drill from the top/finished side. Do not use a paddle bit.

[Curtybob]

I always mask it off, too. I've drilled cleanly without the tape, but it saves you from slip-ups, and gives you an easier writing surface for marking it out.

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by Curtybob

I always mask it off, too. I've drilled cleanly without the tape, but it saves you from slip-ups, and gives you an easier writing surface for marking it out.

Originally Posted by kevinmoore73

Should be easy. Drill from the top/finished side. Do not use a paddle bit.

I had planned on using blue painters masking tape - should that work? Do I need a drill press, or will a hand drill work? I had definitely planned on new drill bits and drill a pilot hole to enlarge with the final bit size.

[Jim Carr]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

I had planned on using blue painters masking tape - should that work? Do I need a drill press, or will a hand drill work? I had definitely planned on new drill bits and drill a pilot hole to enlarge with the final bit size.

Blue tape was recommended to me by Roy at RSguitarworks.
I chickened out and had Roy do the drilling I needed.

[kevinmoore73]

I used a hand drill on mine. A drill press would be better, but I don't have one.

[Curtybob]

Hand drills work fine. If you have a drillpress, by all means, use it. But don't sweat it if you don't. Blue painter's tape is good (I use it all the time). The rest of the plan sounds foolproof.

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by Curtybob

Hand drills work fine. If you have a drillpress, by all means, use it. But don't sweat it if you don't. Blue painter's tape is good (I use it all the time). The rest of the plan sounds foolproof.

Originally Posted by kevinmoore73

I used a hand drill on mine. A drill press would be better, but I don't have one.

Very cool! 3ZB it is!

[Rattman]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

I had planned on using blue painters masking tape - should that work? Do I need a drill press, or will a hand drill work? I had definitely planned on new drill bits and drill a pilot hole to enlarge with the final bit size.

Hey... if you DO decide to 'mask off' on your poly finish, remember that tape can most definitely pull the finish right off! .. so either use 'low tack' tape ("quick release") or to be even more safe.. each tape-piece should be 'de-tacked' by sticking it to your shirt several times before applying it to the instrument's finish. I do this every time I do a fret-leveling/recrowning job.. works for me anyway... the poly finish never pulls off with the tape after I've 'de-tacked' it

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by Rattman

Hey... if you DO decide to 'mask off' on your poly finish, remember that tape can most definitely pull the finish right off! .. so either use 'low tack' tape ("quick release") or to be even more safe.. each tape-piece should be 'de-tacked' by sticking it to your shirt several times before applying it to the instrument's finish. I do this every time I do a fret-leveling/recrowning job.. works for me anyway... the poly finish never pulls off with the tape after I've 'de-tacked' it

The blue painter's tape is low tack but I'll try it on the back of the bass first. I know there's an eve lower tack type as well. Thanks!

[Jazzdogg]

I'd use an awl (or comparable tool) to "dimple" the surface and prevent the bit from skating, followed by a sharp brad-point bit.

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by Jazzdogg

I'd use an awl (or comparable tool) to "dimple" the surface and prevent the bit from skating, followed by a sharp brad-point bit.

I've got a punch to make the dimple you're talking about and I plan on masking off quite a bit of the the top around the drill area in case of skating. What do you mean by a "brad-point bit"?

[Jazzdogg]

Here's a link to brad point bits from a reputable company:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240

The photos shows them clearly enough to make it easy to visualize the difference between a brad point bit and the more common twist drill - which I seldom use in woodworking.

Hope this helps

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by Jazzdogg

Here's a link to brad point bits from a reputable company:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240

The photos shows them clearly enough to make it easy to visualize the difference between a brad point bit and the more common twist drill - which I seldom use in woodworking.

Hope this helps

Great tip! I'll look for these locally.