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  #1  
Old 07-02-2008, 08:15 AM
brich74
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Drilling neck pocket

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I bought a Mighty Mite neck and a "build a bass" jazz body. I drilled pilot holes in the body to install the neck. One of the screws will not go all the way in flush w/ the neck plate. I am hesitant to drill much deeper. I read on here that perhaps the holes in the body should be large enough so that the screws barely grab. Is that true? I purposely made the pilot holes small in diameter. Also, I've badly stripped two of the screws in my amateur installation attempt. What type of screws are typically used? Are they stainless or what? I assume I can just take one to a hardware store and get an adequate replacement.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:08 AM
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Did you drill pilot holes in the neck? Sounds like something is binding - it shouldn't be so tight that you're stripping screws. Without pilot holes in the neck, the screw is trying to go into maple - not a good idea.

As to the "barely grab" question - that is how I do it.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:12 AM
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Seems to me that if you're stripping screw heads, you are drilling much too small. I'm not a luthier, but think about this - on a production bass, normally you can just about drop the screws THROUGH the body to reach the neck. you don't need the screw to bite in the body at all.

Also, if the screw is tightening in the body, how can you be sure that you are drawing the neck firmly to the body? You need larger holes int he body.

As for depth - why not use a toothpick to test depth of the hole in the neck? Stick it in, mark it, then hold it next to the neck and see how deep you are. There are little round objects called "drill bit stops" that use set screws to fasten on a bit and prevent it from drilling past a certain point. (However, the drill bit stop may mark the wood where it contacts it.)

Or if you have steady hands, you can measure the desired depth on a bit, wrap masking tape around the bit at the stop point to mark that depth, and drill carefully.
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2008, 09:25 AM
brich74
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Sorry. I got it backwards. I drilled holes in the neck, not the body. Perhaps I just need wider diameter pilot holes in the neck? I made them quite a bit smaller than the diameter of the screws.
  #5  
Old 07-02-2008, 09:28 AM
brich74
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I found out that the screws are probably #8 x 1 3/4". That seems to be standard. What size drill bit would you use for the pilot holes in the neck?
  #6  
Old 07-02-2008, 09:39 AM
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Most fender neck plate screws can use a 1/8" pilot hole. Others - you need to measure the width of the screw body, not counting the threads (the inner part). Drill the pilot holes that size.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brich74 View Post
I found out that the screws are probably #8 x 1 3/4". That seems to be standard. What size drill bit would you use for the pilot holes in the neck?
You should be able to hold a bit up to one of the screws and eyeball it at this point. Find a bit that is exactly the same size as the threads, and maybe go with one that is the next size down. If it doesn't work for you, you can go with the one you sized first to match the screws.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:53 AM
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YES - the pilot holes should be the size of the screw, without the threads. If you lay the drill on top of the screw, you should see the threads sticking out, not the body of the screw. Too tight of a pilot hole not only makes installation really difficult, it can cause splitting of the wood.

ALSO - an easy way to set the depth of the hole is to lay the drill on the side of the neck so you can see how deep it needs to go, and then just stick a piece of masking tape on the drill to act as a "stop". As you drill, when the tape hits the top of the wood, it's at the right depth.
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  #9  
Old 07-02-2008, 09:58 AM
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I've also heard that rubbing the screw threads over a bar of soap or wax helps it a bit, but can't confirm...
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2008, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by fretlessman71 View Post
I've also heard that rubbing the screw threads over a bar of soap or wax helps it a bit, but can't confirm...
Yes sir, no doubt about it.
  #11  
Old 07-02-2008, 10:31 AM
brich74
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Thanks everyone. I think I need to use a slightly larger drill bit and I'll be all set. I'll do the soap trick too.
  #12  
Old 07-02-2008, 11:19 AM
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For better screwing:

Heat the screw's tip and shaft with a lighter or soldering iron and firmly press it into a candle. The wax will search out and coat the hot threads.

This will make the first entry a breeze.
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Last edited by T. Brookins : 07-02-2008 at 11:20 AM. Reason: apostrophe
  #13  
Old 07-02-2008, 11:25 AM
brich74
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sounds hot!
  #14  
Old 07-02-2008, 06:47 PM
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I just keep a chunk of paraffin (same stuff used to seal homemade jam) in my tool kit - grab the screws and drag the threads across the paraffin, then use them. Eases screw installation regardless of the kind of wood you're using.
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