E String intonation cranked ALL THE WAY back!

MammaryVest · #1 02-06-2010, 09:19 AM

It seems that no matter what I do, the intonation on my E string must be cranked all the way back to be exactly right. It also seems that whenever I put new strings on, the intonation goes a little sharp again, which means that I've run out of space on my bridge. Is this a common problem with the Fender bridges? How could I fix this? I was wondering if maybe a lighter string gauge would effect my intonation in the way that I would like it to. I do not wish to get an after market bridge, but if I had to, which one would be best?
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LaminatedParrot · #2 02-06-2010, 09:25 AM

Intonation is also affected by string height. It's possible that each time you've changed strings the neck has moved slightly incresing the string height.

Try lowering the string a little and setting up the intonation again. If it's still too far back, you may have to adjust the truss rod to enable you to lower the action even more. This of course will require to set up the intonation for all string again.

mech · #3 02-06-2010, 09:27 AM

^^^^
How high is your action? Not only with the bridge adjustment but at the topnut? The further the string has to move to hit the fret the more it's pulled sharp.

If you don't do your own setups, check the stickies. Good info there and it's not difficult to do.

mech

202dy · #4 02-06-2010, 09:30 AM

When this occurs the problem is usually at the nut.

Nut

Search is your friend. Use it often.

FatCity · #5 02-06-2010, 09:32 AM

I have had this happen in the past but it was the result of a bad string.

bassteban · #6 02-06-2010, 09:36 AM

I cured this issue on my Jazz 5 by shimming the neck pocket- 2 bits of business card at the bridgeward end increased the neck angle slightly, putting enough additional distance between the nut & bridge to intonate the B(my particular problem)properly. Cheap, easy, totally reversable. You'll need to raise the saddles a bit to get the same action, but for me it worked out perfectly.

Tusec · #7 02-06-2010, 09:46 AM

If new strings curve over the saddle, they will intonate long, especially the lowest strings. You need to squash them flat so they're perfectly straight all the way back to the "witness point" where they contact the saddle.

Flattening a curved string can easily shorten its intonation setting by 1/4" or so.

JAGGL3S · #8 02-06-2010, 09:48 AM

Wow Thats Wierd.

bassteban · #9 02-06-2010, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAGGL3S

Wow Thats Weird.

What, specifically?

MammaryVest · #10 02-06-2010, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tusec

If new strings curve over the saddle, they will intonate long, especially the lowest strings. You need to squash them flat so they're perfectly straight all the way back to the "witness point" where they contact the saddle.

Flattening a curved string can easily shorten its intonation setting by 1/4" or so.

This seems helpful. How shall I squash the string though?

bassteban · #11 02-06-2010, 10:13 AM

Press down firmly on the string in front of & behind the saddle.

Zooberwerx · #12 02-06-2010, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassteban

Press down firmly on the string in front of & behind the saddle.

Same holds true for the nut provided the slot is dressed correctly. Set your witness points and re-intonate.

Intonation of tapered strings requires that the saddles be advanced a bit forward. This may be an option but I've seen cautionary notes about going the string-thru-body route with tapered strings, particularly the E and B. I've seen pics of a "hybrid" set-up where the G, D, and A are thru-body but the E and B are top-mounted.

Riis

dystopiate · #13 02-06-2010, 11:28 AM

What kind of bass is this?
What gauge strings?
How high is the relief?
How high is the action?

Good chance this is a simple fix.

MammaryVest · #14 02-06-2010, 12:26 PM

I really appreciate all the input, by the way.

These are Ernie Ball regular slinky strings (50,70,85,105)
This is a brand new (this week) Fender American Standard Precision.

The relief is like this (8th fret with first and last fret depressed)

The action is like this.
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and like this.
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Zooberwerx · #15 02-06-2010, 12:40 PM

Thanks for the pics but I can't make out s*** with the exception of the last photo. Looks like your action is sky-high.

Riis

MammaryVest · #16 02-06-2010, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassteban

Press down firmly on the string in front of & behind the saddle.

Worked like a damn charm, thanks.

Tusec · #17 02-06-2010, 01:27 PM

So that fixed the problem? How far did the saddle move forward?

I just learned about straightening the strings a week or so ago on this forum. I couldn't believe how big a difference it makes. It's important and IMO doesn't get emphasized enough in the various setup FAQs you see.

MammaryVest · #18 02-06-2010, 02:52 PM

You know, to be honest, I didn't notice any forward movement of the saddle. All I know is that when I went to re-intonate it, it was well flat of where it originally was. Immediately fixing my problem.

9mmMike · #19 03-19-2010, 06:37 AM

Good thread. Love this place!

ehque · #20 03-21-2010, 01:39 PM

MammaryVest, I know you have fixed the intonation problem, but your relief seems to be way too much.

A business card thickness between the string and 7-8th fret is generally recommended when fretting at the first and 20th fret. From your photos it seems like it's way higher than that, and i'd suspect that was the cause of the intonation weirdness in the first place.