Endpin Jack repair? Possible?

[ThudThudThud]

I have a threaded end pin jack in my walnut jazz (read: It was a bear to install, and getting it out is scaring me). It has recently become loose internally, and a standard 1/4" jack will crackle and short out if it moves at all. Stew-Mac don't know of any way to 'bend the tip in' - which I would assume would address the issue.

I don't want to get in there with thin tools without having a clear plan as damaging the tip will mean a huge amount of work - and this is my main player. It's a passive bass (so the wiring hasn't been accidentally dislodged during battery replacement), and all other parts are fine.

I've used the Planet Waves cables - the ones with the Compression Springs on the barrel of the jack - and this seems to work. However, this is more of a band-aid move than anything. I want my bass to work with all 1/4" jacks.

Any help/advice would be hugely appreciated.

[T-Bird]

Hi.

A modified dentist's hook and a MagLite with the fiber optic extension is what I used to "re-tension" the lug on one of my acoustics back in the day.

Didn't last too long though, so I ended up replacing the jack. I'd recommend You to do the same.

Regards
Sam

[JLS]

Originally Posted by ThudThudThud

I have a threaded end pin jack in my walnut jazz (read: It was a bear to install, and getting it out is scaring me). It has recently become loose internally, and a standard 1/4" jack will crackle and short out if it moves at all. Stew-Mac don't know of any way to 'bend the tip in' - which I would assume would address the issue.

I don't want to get in there with thin tools without having a clear plan as damaging the tip will mean a huge amount of work - and this is my main player. It's a passive bass (so the wiring hasn't been accidentally dislodged during battery replacement), and all other parts are fine.

I've used the Planet Waves cables - the ones with the Compression Springs on the barrel of the jack - and this seems to work. However, this is more of a band-aid move than anything. I want my bass to work with all 1/4" jacks.

Any help/advice would be hugely appreciated.

I roundly dislike these jacks, because they're irreparable, and expensive, compared to a good Switchcraft common-garden-variety jack.

You might try T-Bird's method, hope it will work for you, at least temporarily.

[ThudThudThud]

Thanks for the advice. I'll try the hook. Even if it's 'temporary' it will be an improvement.

I'm also, just in case, going out to buy the 'high end' (lifetime guarantee) cable with the compression springs. Fits tight as a glove. I'll just have to make sure the cable and bass don't get separated.

Stew-Mac have been real gracious about wanting to sending out a replacement too, but it's been a lot of years and I don't want to do a full replacement at this time (perhaps when I get a little extra cash and get one of them there CV Precisions in Fiesta Red).

[JLS]

"
Stew-Mac have been real gracious about wanting to sending out a replacement too, but it's been a lot of years "

That is THE ticket, with Stewmac!

[ThudThudThud]

Tried a ton of different standard jacks last night, and there's definitely some movement with all of them. The jack just doesn't seem to grip the cable tight enough.

[202dy]

Also known as a long panel jack.

The very best of these fail. If the instrument has one, it will be replaced periodically. The suggestion for "re-tensioning " the jack is a temporary fix, albeit a good one.

Replacement is not that complex. A tight control cavity may require that one or more of the lugs be trimmed to fit. Sometimes removal and replacement are a bit of an adventure, but the right tool and a good attitude will get the job done in a few minutes. If new to soldering, it is usually tight work in these cavities. Start with the bottom lugs and work up. Don't forget to practice on scrap.

[ThudThudThud]

Originally Posted by JLS

"
Stew-Mac have been real gracious about wanting to sending out a replacement too, but it's been a lot of years "

That is THE ticket, with Stewmac!

I ordered a new one, plus the special tool to screw the old one out and the new one in. Came in just a day or so (Stew-Mac promised 4-5 days and delivered in 1!). I made sure that the correct Kudos were given on their site. They really are a class act.

I'll have a go this weekend. Pucker factor for sure, but I think I'll be fine. I'm pretty sure that the hole drilled for the end pin jack does not enter the control cavity (rear rout), and there's just an access hole for the wiring. Should be fun keeping it untwisted.

[walterw]

is the stewmac jack an actual switchcraft, or a cheaper version (like much of their electronics)?

if it's the cheapie, don't bother with it, get a real switchcraft #151.

it'll still wear out, but maybe not as fast.