Feeler Gauge

[selowitch]

I know I'm going to sound like a total doofus, but how the heck do you use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between a fret and a string? To me, each one in the set fits under the string just fine. So how do I tell which one reveals the correct measurement?

*Sigh* OK, bring on the snark. I can take it.

[warnergt]

It's a simple concept but I agree it is easier said than done.
There must be some point where you can't add any more height
to the feeler gauge without lifting the string away from the fret board.
That's your height.

I've had my eye on this String Action Gauge.
However, I'm not sure it would be any better than feeler gauges as it
can be difficult to see exactly where the bottom of a string (particularly
big diameter or obstructed strings) lines up with the rules.

[Alvaro Martín Gómez A.]

I have a set of feeler gauges but honestly, I prefer to measure relief just by "feel" following this method.

[cb56]

We all measure relief by feel.
If it doesn't feel good to us, we will change it! Measuring with a feeler gauge just allows us to document where that feel good point is, and quickly get us back to that feel good setting quickly when doing a setup. And of course it's all flexable, it can change, be adjusted differently from bass to bass, or even on a whim. Nothing is written in stone. It's just a tool to help us.

[Solarmist]

Originally Posted by cb56

We all measure relief by feel.
If it doesn't feel good to us, we will change it!

+1 - You don't really need any gauges - there's room for error - most can guess that distance pretty accurately. Just a very slight gap at the 8th fret (usually) about the same clearance as the thickness of a business card < credit card.

[seanm]

Originally Posted by selowitch

I know I'm going to sound like a total doofus, but how the heck do you use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between a fret and a string? To me, each one in the set fits under the string just fine. So how do I tell which one reveals the correct measurement?

That *could* mean your action is very high. Also, you generally combine feelers to get the size you want.

For example, Fender recommends .014". On my feelers that means I use a .006" and a .008" together.

Measure between the top of a fret and the string. It should just go under without lifting the string.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by seanm

Fender recommends .014". On my feelers that means I use a .006" and a .008" together.

I've been using .012" as my goal because my bass has a 9.5" fingerboard radius, and I've been using a single feeler gauge, the .012" one. I just can't tell if it fits or not.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by selowitch

I know I'm going to sound like a total doofus, but how the heck do you use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between a fret and a string? To me, each one in the set fits under the string just fine. So how do I tell which one reveals the correct measurement?

*Sigh* OK, bring on the snark. I can take it.

no snark necessary, this is important stuff. you are slapping a capo on the first fret and holding the string down at the last fret, right? the feeler gauge in question should basically touch both the top of the (7th or 8th) fret and the bottom of the string, but without pushing the string up at all.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by walterw

no snark necessary, this is important stuff. you are slapping a capo on the first fret and holding the string down at the last fret, right? the feeler gauge in question should basically touch both the top of the (7th or 8th) fret and the bottom of the string, but without pushing the string up at all.

Yes to the capo. Maybe I need to put the bass up higher on a table or something to get a good view.

[202dy]

Actually, you want to take all measurements in the playing position. Gravity will affect the neck, action, and measurements therein. Placing the guitar on a a bench in the open heart surgery position is a great way to work on them but all adjustments are made just off vertical.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by 202dy

Actually, you want to take all measurements in the playing position. Gravity will affect the neck, action, and measurements therein. Placing the guitar on a a bench in the open heart surgery position is a great way to work on them but all adjustments are made just off vertical.

Good to know.

[vejesse]

If you're going to measure relief don't look at the gap between the first and last fret. Look at the relief between fret one and twelve. Most necks have a 'rising tongue' at the last few frets and this rise at the end of the fingerboard will skew your reading. If you want to measure this rising tongue look at the gap between the ninth fret and the last fret.

For the true measure, press the string down at the first and twelve fret and eyeball the gap. Or, put a strait edge between the first and twelve fret and use your feeler gage set.

By the way, changing relief only affects the neck up to the ninth fret or so. If you have buzzing past the ninth, adding relief will raise the overall string height but it won't really solve your problem.

[Pilgrim]

Originally Posted by warnergt

I've had my eye on this String Action Gauge.
However, I'm not sure it would be any better than feeler gauges as it
can be difficult to see exactly where the bottom of a string (particularly
big diameter or obstructed strings) lines up with the rules.

I just received that string gauge from Stew-Mac. It looks MUCH easier to use than the machinist's pocket rule I have been using (marked in 64ths but hard to read next to strings). I think that string gauge is going to be a considerable help. For $18.95 I think it's a worthwhile tool.

[seanm]

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

I just received that string gauge from Stew-Mac. It looks MUCH easier to use than the machinist's pocket rule I have been using (marked in 64ths but hard to read next to strings). I think that string gauge is going to be a considerable help. For $18.95 I think it's a worthwhile tool.

I use a machinist's rule that is measured in 1/32". Then I guesstimate for odd 64ths. Works great for me and easier to read. YMMV

[selowitch]

Drat, this is frustrating. I really feel like I should be able to do this myself, but it seems to get more complicated the more I read about it. I'd love to avoid taking my bass to a tech every time I want to adjust it, but now I'm just feeling a bit bewildered by all this info.

[seanm]

Originally Posted by selowitch

Drat, this is frustrating. I really feel like I should be able to do this myself, but it seems to get more complicated the more I read about it. I'd love to avoid taking my bass to a tech every time I want to adjust it, but now I'm just feeling a bit bewildered by all this info.

We are blathering to ourselves. To measure the relief:

1. Put a capo on the first fret
2. Hold the string down on the end of the fretboard
3. Measure using the feelers at the 8th fret.

Measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. The string should not move when you insert the feelers, but there shouldn't be a gap either.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by seanm

Put a capo on the first fret

This part is no problem.

Originally Posted by seanm

Hold the string down on the end of the fretboard

You mean after the last fret where there's no actual note to finger but the fingerboard terminates?

[seanm]

Originally Posted by selowitch

This part is no problem.
You mean after the last fret where there's no actual note to finger but the fingerboard terminates?

Yup. You want to turn the string into a straightedge. So capo at the first fret and then push down after the last.

If you have a second capo, you could probably capo just before the last fret, although I have never tried this.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by seanm

If you have a second capo, you could probably capo just before the last fret, although I have never tried this.

On a Fender, the upper horn would probably interfere with a second capo, no? That and the portion of the body forming the floor/back of the neck pocket. I think that's why few if any people do that. Even with a contoured heel, it's kind of thick unless you can find a "bass capo" designed for this purpose.

Or am I mistaken?

[Joshua]

At the top of the forum there is a sticky thread entitled:

ALL BASIC SETUP QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE

In it there are links to a number of excellent setup guides. My fave is Mr. Gearhead.

If you choose to work on your own instrument, all I can say is:



Learn it. Know it. Live it.