Fender Headstock pull

[dragoon419]

Hey,

I've got what might be an issue with my Jazz headstock. It appears as though its pulled forward slightly. I've never owned a Fender before, and am not sure how they're headstocks react to string tension.

Here's two pics.





Should my headstock be pulled forward ever-so slightly, or should it be straight as an arrow?

Thanks for any help.

[Trevorus]

That looks more like a little bit of difference in how the neck was carved/sanded...

[dragoon419]

Originally Posted by Trevorus

That looks more like a little bit of difference in how the neck was carved/sanded...

Is it something to be concerned about?

[warwick.hoy]

Originally Posted by dragoon419

Is it something to be concerned about?

I don't have that great of an eye, but I don't really see anything wrong.

EDIT: It may not be too much of a concern, but I would consider not cutting the strings so short next time around. This may be splitting hairs, but there should be more than two wraps around the tuning pegs.

[Oric]

yea, pretty similar to my bass. They are headstocks are solid.

[bassybill]

Originally Posted by warwick.hoy

It may not be too much of a concern, but I would consider not cutting the strings so short next time around. This may be splitting hairs, but there should be more than two wraps around the tuning pegs.

Really? I'm not sure about that. When I string up my Fender basses, I don't trim the G string at all and there's only two wraps around the tuning post when it's up to pitch. I trim the D string - the length I cut off is about the distance between the G and D machines. Then I trim the A string by twice that distance and the E string by three times that distance. Effectively, this means that all four strings have the same excess length as the untrimmed G string. The end result is pretty similar to what you see in the pic above. This seems okay to me.

[KarateKid25]

I usually have about 2 wraps around the pegs.

In regard to the original question though, it does look like the head is slightly angled forwards. I don't have my Fender handy at the moment to compare with though.

[Jaco who?]

I think the strings that get pulled down by the string tree create sort of an optical illusion of sorts. Iow, I think it's normal.

I get 5 wraps around my tuners with DR strings, but if yours stays in tune, it stays in tune, so don't worry about it.

[PilbaraBass]

I don't think it's your headstock pulled forward so much as that you have a WHOLE LOT of relief on that neck of yours...


show me the neck side-on @ the 12th fret...not to close...I'd like to see the whole neck...

[scootron]

I think you'll put less pressure on your headstock if you have a few more wraps and finish them up closer to the bottom of the tuning shaft. JMO.

[fourstringdrums]

I usually get 3 wraps around each tuner. I usually will cut the string two tuner peg distances. So the E gets cut at the D, the A gets cut at the G, the D gets cut at the end of the headstock, and the G gets pulled past the headstock and I just eyeball the length and cut it. That usually gives me 3 wraps, sometimes more depending on the string.

[monkeyland]

yeah it looks to me like you have next to no break angle over the nut on the A string. does it get clanky when you dig in?

[phoenix742]

This is one thing that bugs me about straight headstocks. To me, they always look this way. I think it's just an optical illusion due to the string tree.

[dragoon419]

Well, I measured 7.5 cm (bout 3 inches) past the string post for each string. How much should I measure next time? 9.5 cm (bout 3.7 inches)?

[Turnaround]

For Fender-style instruments, I measure about 4.5" past the post I will be binding to, then bend a right angle in the string before cutting it about 1" past the bend. This generally gives enough windings on the post (winding DOWN the post) so that there is a good break angle at the nut.

If you have a bass with smaller-diameter tuning posts, then you don't need to cut the string so long.

Next time you change strings, take a permanent marker and draw a vertical line over the string windings at the post. Then when you remove the string, straighten out the post windings and measure between the marks you created. From that you can determine what length of string you need to create the desired number of windings on the post. For E and A strings on Fender-style basses, I would say that 2 wraps is not enough.

[69nites]

that's normal you have nothing to worry about.

[monkeyland]

i always measure what would end up being the distance between two tuner posts plus maybe 1/2 inch for the E,D and G strings. on the A i put enough on there to make sure that the wraps go to the bottom of the post for maximum break angle.

[seanm]

Wow, I cut my strings 6" past the tuners and get a good three plus wraps. Especially on the E string I feel this helps get a good break on the nut.

[warwick.hoy]

I read in 101 Bass Tips by Gary Willis that for fender style headstocks; don't cut the strings at all.

Tip #23; Page 18

For Older Fender style tuners, you can basically leave the string intact since the extra wraps around the post help provide the grip to keep the string secure. To save time, before you start winding, insert the end of the string into the peg and wrap the extra around the post until there's just enough room to bend the string down over one of the slotted edges.

[fourstringdrums]

Originally Posted by warwick.hoy

I read in 101 Bass Tips by Gary Willis that for fender style headstocks; don't cut the strings at all.

Tip #23; Page 18

I wouldn't follow this advice. It really depends on the length of your strings. I accidentally cut my E string about 2-3" too long and it wouldn't fit on my tuner because there were too many wraps. The string actually slipped because the bottom wrap didn't hold. You might be able to get away with it with thinner strings, or thicker D & G strings, but for the most part you're going to have to cut.