First off (if you haven't already) read the links in the truss rod stickies, this should give you an idea of what will need to be done and better help you understand what I and others will get to try you to do.
Also, your chances of success will be increased if you have some method of measuring with an accuracy of at least 1/64 of an inch... but lets assume you don't.
Your Fender works great? Good. That'll be your reference. Hold it like you are playing it and fret the E string at both the first and the last fret.
Check the distance from the top of the 8th (or the one in middle the between the 1st and last) fret and the bottom of the string.
That'll give you a (very)rough idea of what the relief is. Compare this to the other instruments.
Just a shot in the dark, but I am guessing you will find that they are different with the MM having much less of a gap and the Squier having a bit more (than the MM).
MM should be just an easy twist of that roller knob thingy towards the E string. I don't know what tools come with the MM stuff, but any metal rod that fits snugly in one of those holes should work. About 1/8 to 1/6 of a full turn should allow you to see some results. Try not to turn more than 1/4 turn. If you must, then give the neck a few hours (say overnight) to adjust. There isn't much worse than feeling/hearing your neck make 'snap crackle pop' sounds after you've been cranking on the rod... that sounds dirty.
The Squier sounds like there is a shim in the neck pocket that doesn't need to be there, or has moved. Try adjusting the truss rod first though before you start ripping the neck off
Seriously though, (if you don't already) you'll really need proper tools if you are going to do this. They aren't expensive and setups are safe and easy as long as you take your time.
Let us know how you made out.