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  #1  
Old 08-18-2008, 08:23 PM
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filing a brass nut?

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Maybe this has been asked before (I did a search before posting but couldn't find any info) but what is the best thing to use when filing notches in a brass nut? I hav a pre-slotted one for one of my P-basses but due to the fact that I tune low and use huge strings, I need to make them pesky slots bigger!
Prior to this, I've always had a plastic nut and have used old strings to open the notches up. I know I'll most likely be told to simply use a file, so I guess my question is what type of file is best to use?

Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 08-18-2008, 08:35 PM
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I got a set of rotary tool diamond bits at Menard's for about 5 bucks.
It has a variety of cyliner bits in guages from.048 to .138 in diameter..
(Tool Shop brand-- item 242-3193)
I use them like a file by hand (or on a Dremel) and they cut nice and smooth..
If you use a Dremel--- make sure you put something metal, like a dime, under the slot so you don't go too far.
Get it close, and dial it in by hand..
  #3  
Old 08-18-2008, 08:41 PM
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Right on, John. Thanks. I was actually thinking of dusting off the trusty ol' Dremel but wasn't exactly sure what type of bits I would need. I'm in Massachusetts and have never even heard of Menard's but I'm sure I could find something at Home Depot.
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  #4  
Old 08-18-2008, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrodzilla View Post
Right on, John. Thanks. I was actually thinking of dusting off the trusty ol' Dremel but wasn't exactly sure what type of bits I would need. I'm in Massachusetts and have never even heard of Menard's but I'm sure I could find something at Home Depot.
Yeah-
they might have 'em...
I don't know if you can order on-line or not.
The brand name at Menard's is "Tool Shop"..
but you know how it goes..might be a different name at other outlets..
might try a search on the part # 242-3193
good luck---It's a 20 peice set with other types of bits also--I use them all the time..
  #5  
Old 08-18-2008, 08:57 PM
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With brass, my vote is with the Dremel carbide grinding bits. Just go slow with these fine adjustments.

(Yeah really. What the heck is a Menard's?)
  #6  
Old 08-18-2008, 09:31 PM
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Found it! on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/R66---(-20PC-)-R...0808161116r722
  #7  
Old 08-18-2008, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wentzien View Post
Holy crap...this guy's good. Thanks!
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  #8  
Old 08-18-2008, 09:36 PM
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No Problem- good price too!
  #9  
Old 08-18-2008, 09:50 PM
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Golf applause.
  #10  
Old 08-19-2008, 09:27 AM
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Dang! I think I have that same set of bits hiding somewhere in my tool box. Thanks for the reminder!
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  #11  
Old 08-19-2008, 09:52 AM
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I done this just the other day, I just used a standard rat tail file, same as I use on graphite, delrin or plastic. Flew through the brass at just the right speed.
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  #12  
Old 08-19-2008, 09:17 PM
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Alright...so I ended up finding a set of those rotary bits at Lowe's, came home and made those notches bigger to accomodate my strings (I tune B-E-A-D and use a heavy 5-string set, discarding the highest). I was pretty stoked that it took all of ten minutes to file and install my new brass nut. However, I ended up pretty bummed to find that my bass is now a complete buzz factory. Open strings, fretted notes, buzz, buzz, buzz. I hate it. What would have caused this? I was extremely careful not to file the new nut's existing slots any deeper than they already were...I simply made them a little wider. I even checked to make sure the slots on the new nut were comparable in depth to the plastic one that came off (which they were). My fingers tend to thump my bass pretty hard so I already have quite a bit of relief in my neck and I actually prefer my action to be a little on the high side as well (I know...I'm a caveman), so I'm unsure just how to correct this. Anyone?
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Last edited by scrodzilla : 08-19-2008 at 09:45 PM.
  #13  
Old 08-19-2008, 09:39 PM
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Can you shim the existing nut? If not, you may have to replace it. A good temporary fix is to put a little corner of business card under each string. While the strings are under full tension, one at a time pull them up and out of their slots. Place the corner of the business card in the slot, put the string back in its slot. While pressing the string into the slot (hold firmly), tear away the remainder of the card. A piece just big enough to do the job should be left behind. You can trim off any unsightly edges if they bother you.

Last edited by Rebop : 08-19-2008 at 09:45 PM.
  #14  
Old 08-19-2008, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebop View Post
Can you shim the existing nut? If not, you may have to replace it. A good temporary fix is to put a little corner of business card under each string.
Would I be able to I place a shim beneath the entire nut in order to keep the sustain of the brass?
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  #15  
Old 08-19-2008, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrodzilla View Post
Would I be able to I place a shim beneath the entire nut in order to keep the sustain of the brass?
That's usually how nuts are shimmed unless you go for the road-dog method of using a business card.
  #16  
Old 08-19-2008, 10:23 PM
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Right on...thanks. Sorry for the seemingly dumb question. I've never run into the issue of needing to shim an entire nut before, so I wasn't 100% sure. I'll try it, hopefully it'll work!
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  #17  
Old 08-20-2008, 11:46 AM
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If your fretted strings are buzzing, the adjustments have to be to be at the bridge and the neck relief to make a difference.
  #18  
Old 08-20-2008, 12:19 PM
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The business card idea is always a good standby in my experience. I'm not quite sure how to shim an entire brass nut though...

It sounds like you might be getting some "back buzz". That is, the strings may be buzzing against the frets that are behind the fret you are fretting, due to a nut that is too low. I know it sounds wierd and it is a pretty rare problem. But, it seems to fit the circumstances, as long as you are positive that your relief and saddle heights didn't change during the nut change-out. In which case, stubhead may be absolutely right.

You can test this theory by playing a fretted note on about the 9th fret, then having someone else put their hand over the portion of the string that is behind the 9th fret, effective muting the buzz. If the buzz goes away, it's probably back buzz.
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  #19  
Old 08-20-2008, 05:31 PM
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"Back buzz" (never heard that term) was indeed the problem, so I'm assuming the notches in my brass nut that I widened were too deep to begin with. I decided that if I would be shimming the entire nut and have it be more than a temp fix using a business card, that I would attempt to do it right. I decided on using some sort of wood for my shim...preferably hardwood (in my head, I'm fixed on the notion that this would be best for keeping the sustain of the brass nut). There's an odd little woodworker's supply store nearby so I figured I'd take my chances and see what they had to offer or even if they had some scraps lying around. I'm glad I went, because they had an array of very thin strips of rosewood (I suppose you can't get better than to make a shim using the same wood as your fretboard!), varying in thickness. I picked out a piece that was 3" long, looked to be about the same size as the nut and was about the thickness of a credit card, figuring I could always file it down if need be. After cutting it to length, the little thing matched the size of my nut precisely. It seemed a little thick but I decided not to fiddle with it and went for it...I super-glued it to the underside of the nut, then used a few drops of wood glue to affix it in it's home on my P-bass (with fingers crossed). Tuned up and was stoked to find no buzz at all. $0.45 well spent.

Thanks again to everyone who has been helpful with this matter. My apologies for the long-winded post...I just wanted to share in case anyone reading ever runs into the same troubles!
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Last edited by scrodzilla : 08-20-2008 at 06:06 PM.
  #20  
Old 08-20-2008, 05:53 PM
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You went about it like a sensible human being. Glad it worked out.
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