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05-05-2008, 09:49 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Baltimore | | | First adjusment for a fender jazz??
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I recently traded for a fender jazz and wanted to lower the action. I looked on the fender website but it doesn't really say which step to do first. Should I adjust the truss rod first or the saddles? |
05-05-2008, 10:05 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toronto, Ontario | | | Truss rod first. Saddle movements make for rather insignificant differences in tension (assuming the same tunings between the two saddle positions). Changes in relief, however, can have a huge effect on intonation and string height (which is what saddles adjustments, well, adjust).
HOWEVER! Don't play with the truss rod to lower your action. Get a reasonable amount of relief (about the thickness of a credit card), then make any adjustments to action using the saddles. Repeat: The truss rod is not used to adjust action, it is used to adjust relief. |
05-05-2008, 10:10 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Baltimore | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Kay  Truss rod first. Saddle movements make for rather insignificant differences in tension (assuming the same tunings between the two saddle positions). Changes in relief, however, can have a huge effect on intonation and string height (which is what saddles adjustments, well, adjust).
HOWEVER! Don't play with the truss rod to lower your action. Get a reasonable amount of relief (about the thickness of a credit card), then make any adjustments to action using the saddles. Repeat: The truss rod is not used to adjust action, it is used to adjust relief. | Thanks for the info! I bought a little set of feelers, you wouldn't by chance know the neck radius of a 2000 american jazz would you? |
05-06-2008, 12:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toronto, Ontario | | | I'm not exactly sure, but I'm thinking 7.25". I know it's under 8" for the regular Jazz basses, while the 5 strings and some other models are close to 10". Of course, this is coming from a guy that's never owned a Fender Jazz, so you might want to take that with a grain of salt. |
05-06-2008, 01:29 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Big Island | | | 2008 American Standard has a 9.5” Radius according to Fender's spec sheet. Look on their website for your particular model if it is alot older or a special production model.
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05-06-2008, 05:32 AM
| | | | Loosen the strings before adjusting the truss-rod. It's a pain to keep retuning, but if you adjust the truss-rod with the strings at full tension, you could strip/break the truss-rod. |
05-06-2008, 05:54 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by dbcandle Loosen the strings before adjusting the truss-rod. It's a pain to keep retuning, but if you adjust the truss-rod with the strings at full tension, you could strip/break the truss-rod. | kmk42019
Personally, I tune to pitch before I adjust the truss rod & never had any problems. If your instrument allows you make adjustments with the neck on it won't cause problems... it's a personal taste thing. dbcandle makes a great point however, be careful with your adjustments. I have heard that you aren't supposed to turn more than 1/4 a day, but I have never had to turn more than a 1/6th of a full turn... it's usually much less. Step by step from Fender's site
Don't be afraid to experiment with setups. If you have their suggested tools, you can always set it back to 'default'.
Oh, yeah. Don't follow Fender's string wind directions exactly. Add another 2 - 3 inches to your A string so it winds down the post farther. This will give it a sharper angle across the nut and possibly eliminate potential buzz/rattling problems.
Last edited by Widdershins : 05-06-2008 at 06:03 AM.
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05-06-2008, 03:21 PM
|  | Paid to be here | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Orange County, California | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Kay Truss rod first. Saddle movements make for rather insignificant differences in tension (assuming the same tunings between the two saddle positions). Changes in relief, however, can have a huge effect on intonation and string height (which is what saddles adjustments, well, adjust).
HOWEVER! Don't play with the truss rod to lower your action. Get a reasonable amount of relief (about the thickness of a credit card), then make any adjustments to action using the saddles. Repeat: The truss rod is not used to adjust action, it is used to adjust relief. | This is good advice, thanks. I was going to do this very thing tonight when I got home from work. |
05-06-2008, 07:09 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Brier, WA, 98036 USA | | | If you want to adjust your action, here is what I suggest:
First, play notes in the higher register (12th fret and above), and adjust the saddles to get it to play as low as you want for the upper frets without too much fret buzz. Then, play the lower frets and adjust the truss rod to get the action as low as you want without fret buzz. At that point, it should play how you want it to play, and only need some fine tuning to perfect it. |
05-07-2008, 11:15 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pittsburgh, PA | | | i have 2 sets of instructions for truss rod adjustment. one says tune the bass forst, one says loosen the strings. What's up with that? I usually adjust with the strings close to in tune. easier to judge the relief that way, IMO |
05-07-2008, 11:34 AM
|  | mix-tape legend
builder: Baddy 1 Shoe Pedals | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Durham, NC | | | I assume it's not MIA because if it were you'd have to loosen your strings regardless because you can't adjust the truss rod without taking the neck at least partially off.
I've always got to do that with my Jazz, but my G&L adjusts from the headstock. Regardless I loosen the strings some because I stripped the crap out of a truss rod once and now I'm nervous.
Last edited by jimmy rocket : 05-07-2008 at 11:39 AM.
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05-07-2008, 04:32 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Anaheim, Ca. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Widdershins kmk42019
Personally, I tune to pitch before I adjust the truss rod & never had any problems.
Oh, yeah. Don't follow Fender's string wind directions exactly. Add another 2 - 3 inches to your A string so it winds down the post farther. This will give it a sharper angle across the nut and possibly eliminate potential buzz/rattling problems. | I like that .. definitely agree with the "winding down the post further".. The sharper angle (at the nut) does help, as I discovered this helpful detail quite by accident.. and have been doing that way ever since. |
05-07-2008, 04:44 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Seweracuse, NY | | Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy rocket I assume it's not MIA because if it were you'd have to loosen your strings regardless because you can't adjust the truss rod without taking the neck at least partially off.
I've always got to do that with my Jazz, but my G&L adjusts from the headstock. Regardless I loosen the strings some because I stripped the crap out of a truss rod once and now I'm nervous. | Not all. I have a 93 MIA that adjusts at the headstock.
I also don't de-tune to adjust.
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