First attempt at relicing

bassgod76 · #1 08-01-2009, 04:17 PM

If you dislike relicing, please read no further. I've seen relicing and I wanted to give it a try. I had some spare parts and a few hours. This is how they turned out.

Attachment 135102

Attachment 135103

Mazatleco17 · #2 08-01-2009, 05:15 PM

How did you do it?

bui · #3 08-01-2009, 08:32 PM

Subscribed...I've been reading up on relicing chrome parts, and it seems that steel wool+water or Lime Away is a common method. Let me know how you did it though, I like how they turned out.

IdealWay · #4 08-01-2009, 08:46 PM

Looks authentic to me. Great job for your first time!

bassgod76 · #5 08-01-2009, 10:57 PM

Thanks for your compliments.
I started by placing the hardware in a shell casing tumbler with a bunch of metal odds and ends. Waste of time! It slightly etched the surface, but not enough to look aged.

After consulting a DIY website about the issue, I grabbed a bucket, a cup of pool acid, and a respirator. Here's a step by step
1. Get a bucket with a closeable lid
2. 1 cup of myriadic acid (the kind you pour in pool)
3. Plastic cups for the parts and acid
4. Safety gear (goggles, respirator, gloves)
5. A plastic tray with holes that can be suspended above the cup of acid
6. Pour a small amount (1/2 cup) of acid in a plastic cup
7. Wipe off parts, and keep them free of finger prints
8. Place a the plastic tray, in the bucket, above the cup of acid
9. Place hardware on top of the tray. Be sure NO pieces are submerged in the acid
10. Close bucket lid and wait
11. Waiting depends on the amount of relic desired. I would check in two hour increments. In my case, the bridge and neck plates were left in for 12 hours
12. Be sure to remove screws from saddles. They will rust together
12. Small pieces (springs, screws, etc.) will not need as much time as larger hardware (tuners)
13. When opening the bucket, be aware that there may be fumes
14. Remove parts
15. Soak with water
16. Dry parts
17. spray down with oil (WD-40)
18. Dry parts
19. Done!

I have also tried PCB Etchan from Radio Shack. This stuff is awesome... if you have nickle hardware. It doesn't work with chromed hardware.

I will post pics of the tuners I'm relicing. Hopefully they look as good as the bridge and neck plate. They are taking longer due to their heavy chrome finish.

bui · #6 08-01-2009, 11:13 PM

Awesome! I remember reading about muriatic acid somewhere, but the step-by-step is useful.

Here's another possible method I found while searching the interwebs:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocas...instantly.html

bassgod76 · #7 08-02-2009, 08:08 PM

I will post pics of the aged string retainer, tomorrow.

UncleBalsamic · #8 08-02-2009, 08:16 PM

Is HCl still generally called muriatic acid?

bassgod76 · #9 08-03-2009, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleBalsamic

Is HCl still generally called muriatic acid?

I'm not really sure. I know you can find the acid at any pool store.

Attachment 135224

Here's the string guide, courtesy of PCB etchant and steel wool.

On a sad note, I learned that if you get the tuners finish down to the copper base coat, you've ruined it. These were spare parts and I only destroyed one tuner. So, I have 3 more chances to perfect tuning key relicing. Wish me luck.

bui · #10 08-03-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassgod76

I'm not really sure. I know you can find the acid at any pool store.

Attachment 135224

Here's the string guide, courtesy of PCB etchant and steel wool.

On a sad note, I learned that if you get the tuners finish down to the copper base coat, you've ruined it. These were spare parts and I only destroyed one tuner. So, I have 3 more chances to perfect tuning key relicing. Wish me luck.

Thanks for the heads up, this is my project for tomorrow. I plan on dremelling (with the steel wool bit) some of the chrome off, hitting it with PCB, rinsing with water, then coating with silicone spray (per some youtube video's instruction). Going to start with the neckplate, something easy and cheap to replace.

bassgod76 · #11 08-03-2009, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bui

Thanks for the heads up, this is my project for tomorrow. I plan on dremelling (with the steel wool bit) some of the chrome off, hitting it with PCB, rinsing with water, then coating with silicone spray (per some youtube video's instruction). Going to start with the neckplate, something easy and cheap to replace.

Can't wait to see how you do. Start with the underside of the neckplate or bridge. Any mistakes won't be visible. I tried some dremel work on my tuners, and sometimes the marks left by the tool make it look fake. Either way, have fun, experiment, learn from my mistakes, and most importantly; POST PICS!

bassgod76 · #12 08-04-2009, 10:07 AM

So, I tried, once again to relic bass tuners. This time, I just exposed the tuners to 40 mins suspended above the acid cup. Ageing chrome is a b*tch. For some reason, I can't get that same dulled silver like the neck plate and bridge. The tuner is either bright chrome or copper. Sigh. I used a dremel tool on low speed and it works slightly, but it's like the chrome finish is too hard for it to leave micro scratches. I will post pics, but I'm not happy with the results. I hear nickle is way easier to age. God, I hope so.

bui · #13 08-13-2009, 10:45 PM

Any pics of the tuners?

I've been sidetracked, and never got to start on my project. Hopefully I'll get some of it done this weekend.

bassgod76 · #14 08-14-2009, 07:36 AM

I'm at a loss with tuners. I've tried several methods and they all look like crap. I have another set of tuners to mess with, so I may try something different. I will keep u posted.

TonyFranklinFan · #15 08-16-2009, 02:59 AM

Try 320 grit sandpaper {about a 3 inch piece} folded in two and rub the tuner machine heads in a swirling circular direction for about a minute or so and pt WD-40 or grease on your fingers {not too much} and rub it into the etched metal..it should give it a cloudy murkey look like any old 60's bass..the tiny scratch marks should go away with enough contact after you use the sand paper.