Fixing clearcoat chips on the neck?

rojo412 · #1 10-16-2011, 11:58 PM

A friend of mine just gave me a mission:
Fix the chipped clearcoat on his Aria Pro SB1000's neck.

There's just 2 small spots, only on the ebony on the board. He doesn't care if it looks a little off, but wants it to feel better.

I've never actually done anything like this. I've stripped finishes and TruOiled them... but never tried this repair.
I have seen 2 options that sound easy enough:
1) CA (super glue)
2) Nail polish (clear or black)

Any tips or tactics that could be recommended?
Any "don't do's"?

TimmyP · #2 10-17-2011, 12:03 AM

You mean on the edges of the board, not the playing surface of the board?

rojo412 · #3 10-17-2011, 12:04 AM

Yes I do. I posted a pic just now...

RedLeg · #4 10-17-2011, 12:05 AM

I used super glue (the thick stuff) to repair a very similar problem on my old modulus. I used steel wool to buff it out. could hardly tell afterwards.

Turnaround · #5 10-17-2011, 06:32 AM

Start with thin super glue. This will wick under the edges of the chip and bond the finish that is lifting a bit around the edges. Then you can apply the thicker cyanoacrylate.

I would build up the finish until it was mounded a bit higher than the existing finish. Once fully hardened, I would dress it down close to level with a very fine flat file, then take it to level with sucessively finer sandpaper, starting with 400 grit. Then I would polish with a rubbing compound to brign up the right amount of shine. The repair will be nearly invisible.

RedLeg · #6 10-17-2011, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turnaround

Start with thin super glue. This will wick under the edges of the chip and bond the finish that is lifting a bit around the edges. Then you can apply the thicker cyanoacrylate.

Brilliant idea! I wish I thought of it first

rojo412 · #7 10-17-2011, 08:50 AM

Awesome! I have a plan of action. Just have to get to the CA store

I'm familiar with the basic, super-thin CA, but what's a good thicker one?

I'll post progress pics as they get made.

rojo412 · #8 10-22-2011, 08:47 AM

I applied the CA last night and am waiting for it to cure nicely before I mess with it. I think there may be some bubbles or discoloration underneath, so I may be sanding it back off and starting again.

FWIW, though, it's pretty easy to do this. I'm thinking of attempting some ding repairs on my other bass. It's black paint, but I think a drop of glue and a little smoothing could make it go bye-bye!

Pics tonight...

fhm555 · #9 10-22-2011, 05:53 PM

Do yourself a favor and go to a hobby shop or guitar repair supply house for your CA. Hobby shops carry several brands of CA in thin, medium, and thick. Stick with the same brand for different viscosities. Another thing that will make your work go much faster is to get a bottle of accelerator, but only use it for the initial thin coats and make sure it's fully set before you add more. It will allow you to quickly tack down the lifted edges so you can move on to adding layers of medium or thick to fill the remaining void. Don't use the accelerator on the build layers as it will only flash the surface and leave you with a zit-like puddle of glue that can (and will) burst and squirt CA if you put enough pressure to pop it. Accelerator will also leave layer lines so it's best to just let it flow out and cure naturally. The only thing you can do to speed up cure on thicker CA is a little heat. If you have some kind of lamp you can set the bulb close to the repair, the heat will shorten curing time. Don't get too close or you will smoke the CA and it will yellow and not stick as well.

If you make any mistakes, keep a paper towel handy and wipe up immediately with a single pass, without stopping, across the CA you want to remove. Stopping will stick your paper so if you need to make multiple passes do it in single swipes changing to a fresh pickup surface for every swipe.

Last of all, you can also get a bottle of CA remover which can be real handy if you spill or over do a layer and need more cleanup that a quick swipe with a rag can deliver.

202dy · #10 10-22-2011, 07:10 PM

Accelerator applied to liquid thin CA will cause the glue to foam. It will grow and look like styrofoam.

If the medium or thick glue is applied in a thick layer accelerator will cause the glue to skin over and leave a liquid pool inside. However, the glue will continue to cure over a few hours. To avoid this problem, apply the medium or thick viscosity CA glue in thin layers and use accelerator before drop filling each layer. Accelerator may be applied after the layer begins to harden, too. It may pit but that will be ground away by the file.

Turnaround · #11 10-22-2011, 07:37 PM

^^^^ - What he said!

rojo412 · #12 10-22-2011, 08:23 PM

Well, I kept it simple...

Snagged some Loctite Liquid with the fine applicator on it. It wasn't as thin as I'd hoped it would be, so it didn't completely wick into the edges of the chips.

I put on a few coats and let them dry overnight.
I hit them with some files to get them close, then finished with some 1200 grit paper.
After I got it nice and smooth, took some Mother's Billet Polish and went over the area about 5 times.

The results:

You can see the outline of the chip, but you can't feel it. From 3 feet away, you can't see it. And my buddy was THRILLED with the results.

I'm going to experiment more on my own dinged up instruments now...

fhm555 · #13 10-22-2011, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 202dy

...Accelerator applied to liquid thin CA will cause the glue to foam. It will grow and look like styrofoam...

Never heard of or seen this. Are you perhaps using some incompatible accelerator with the CA you are using?

I've used Mercury Adhesives thin CA hundreds of times and have never had it foam when accelerator was applied.

Mercury Adhesives ~ Scientifically Engineered CA hobby glues, adhesives, foam compatible adhesives, debonder, accelerator, and thread locker

202dy · #14 10-22-2011, 09:21 PM

Happens with every brand. Maybe Mercury is doing something different with their glue or accelerator. In an open forum where general information is given and there is no control over the products used, universal solutions to potential known problems serve the greatest number of readers.

fhm555 · #15 10-22-2011, 10:42 PM

Strange, I know plenty of other people who have been using thin CA and accelerator from Mercury, Bob Smith Industries, etc, for years and have never heard of it foaming until I saw it posted here.

Used it to bond several types of raw wood, painted wood, plastic, carbon fiber, foam, metals, you name it, no foaming.

Used it to polish wood, no foaming.

Never seen it, heard of, or read of it happening until tonight.

202dy · #16 10-23-2011, 06:37 AM

It is odd that you have never seen this reaction. It happens with virtually all thin CA products. Works great on thicker varieties, though.