Flexible Polishing Paper Vs Micro-Mesh Finishing Pads

[azfryguy]

I cannot decide which one to get. Maybe you guys can help me out. I will be buying one or the other and maybe later down the road when I have money both! Lets go to the tale of the tape!

Flexible Polishing Paper/Micro-Mesh Finishing Pads

Cost: $11.90/$10.39

Varity: 6/9

Amount: 9" x 11"/2" x 2" (two sides)

Wet or dry: Yes/Yes

Pros: Flexable/Squeezes out water

One of the only things I can find that people do not like about the Flexible Polishing Paper is that it needs a color coding system. Well, that is not a big deal if you pay attention to what you are doing. On the Micro-Mesh Finishing Pads reviews say that if you use mineral spirits instead of water it lifts the sandpaper from the pads. That is ok because I do not plan on doing that anyways. So what do you suggest getting?

[walterw]

uh, what are you wanting to use it for?

[azfryguy]

Everything!

[azfryguy]

bump

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by walterw

uh, what are you wanting to use it for?

Let's say removing or minimizing very fine scratches in clearcoat.

Riis

[Growly Lytes]

I ordered some of the Micro Mesh Pads in a Craft Kit & its got grits from 1500grit to 12000 plus about 3 very fine double sided nail files & also a bottle of some liquid Micro Mesh abrasive & a 100% flannel cloth for the wipe up.After watching vids & reading reviews im confident it works & i should get it in a day.
Il let ya know how i go.

[Bruce Johnson]

Over the last 20 years, I've bought several sets of the Micro Mesh abrasive pads and nail files. I've read all of these glowing reviews. But I've never found them to be useful for anything. I've tried them for polishing plastics, metals, and various kinds of finishes. In all cases, the Micro Mesh abrasives were incredibly slow and tedious, as compared to more conventional techniques. They seem to cut poorly and immediately clog up. I've tried all the techniques that they recommend. I don't get it. Does anybody here actually use Micro Mesh abrasive pads and truly like them?

For sanding and polishing out a finish, the best and fastest technique I know of is this: First, use standard 3M wet/dry paper, starting with 1000 grit and finishing with either 1500 or 2000 grit. Use water with a bit of dishwashing liquid in it. Hold the paper on a small rubber block and sand in straight lines only, not in little circles. Sand with the 1000 grit all in one direction, then sand with the 1500/2000 at a different angle. This allows you to watch as you are removing the 1000 grit scratches, and make sure they're all gone. Don't flood the area with water, just dip the sanding block in the water, shake off the excess, and sand with light pressure. Keep wiping the surface dry to check your progress.

From the 1500/2000 level sanding, I go right to buffing. My favorite buffing compound is Meguiar's #105, which is available at most auto parts stores. I haven't yet found anything that works better. I do the buffing with a 6" unsewn cotton buffing wheel, mounted in an arbor, and chucked in a variable speed electric drill. Personally, I like to have the instrument stationary and do the buffing with the hand-held electric drill. Others like to build or buy a stationary buffing machine, and hold the instrument in their hands. Either will work. I apply the Meguiar's #105 compound to the surface and work the buffing wheel over it, continuously changing directions. I work a small area at a time, about a quarter of the body. Usually twice over with the #105 will take out all of the 2000 level scratches.

For a super fine gloss, particularly on dark color paints, I'll finish up with Meguiar's #205 compound, rubbed in by hand in a circular motion.

[Billy Low]

I use micro mesh to polish frets after crowning. Works extremely well for me.

[Bruce Johnson]

Originally Posted by Billy Low

I use micro mesh to polish frets after crowning. Works extremely well for me.

Really?? Which grits do you use? And it's taking out all of the file marks? Are you sanding dry, or using any kind of lubricant? How long does it take you to sand/polish a whole neck, assuming that you've finished crowning?

These days, I'm using stainless frets on all of my new instruments, so it may not be a fair comparison. But, after crowning, I go over the tops of the frets lightly with a #4 Swiss file, followed by an oilstone, followed by a Dremel tool with the Gray and Pink polishing wheels from Stew-Mac. That whole process takes me about 20 minutes per neck; about a minute per fret.

A few years back, with nickel-silver wire, I used to hand polish them. I used a small shaped rubber block with strips of 600 and 1500 grit paper, then finished up with 0000 steel wool. That's what I think of as the traditional method of fret polishing. It takes maybe 2 minutes per fret.

I don't think I've ever tried Micro Mesh on frets, but I have tried it on small brass and aluminum parts. My impression was that the cutting action was very slow, as compared to the same grit of regular 3M wet/dry paper. So, I'm really curious how you're using it?

[Billy Low]

My fault. I actually use the Micro Mesh sheets, not the pads. I was sleepy when I read the OP!

I use all of the sheets dry, from 1500 to 12000. I actually start with 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper before moving to Micro Mesh. I make sure NOT to use a diamond fret file when working. While they make quick work of fret leveling, the aggressive profile makes it a bit more work for removing file marks. While I have never timed myself, I am sure it's pretty closer to ten minutes than twenty. I tape off the neck, and just make between 10 to 20 passes with each sheet and I'm done.

[joeyl]

I use the Mirka Abralon pads used for bowling balls. Works great, the sponge backing is nice for delicate sanding, and it holds water for wet sanding. I buy mine from that guy but there could be cheaper places. No affiliation with that ebay seller.

MIRKA/ABRALON OR SIA PADS FOR BOWLING 6 PK 6 " COMBO YOU PICK FREE SHIPPING | eBay