Fret Buzz - Can't understand anyone, need relevant help

bhass · #1 03-01-2009, 01:10 PM

Before I start, I'd like to add that i've been searching TB and Google for hours for an answer. However, every answer seems different and I'm really confused. Please no Einstein comments like "Setup" or "Search!"

My bass has horrible fret buzz everywhere, and every time I pick hard or play fingerstyle it clacks. At first I thought that loosining the truss rod would work, however the buzz is still there and now the action is high. I want there to be no fret buzz and low action.

Also, when I pick or pluck hard on the G string, it buzzes. Even without pressing any frets at all.

Where can I go next?

4string4life · #2 03-01-2009, 01:19 PM

you could check the neck tilt, i had a problem with buzz that truss couldnt fix. Neck tilt worked.

bhass · #3 03-01-2009, 01:21 PM

Do you think I should start by completely straightening the neck by the truss rod?

tegnoto89 · #4 03-01-2009, 01:21 PM

I would take it in for repair. The frets could be poorly done, amongst other things

bhass · #5 03-01-2009, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tegnoto89

I would take it in for repair. The frets could be poorly done, amongst other things

I have absolutely no money. I have enough to live, and buy strings with.

nella · #6 03-01-2009, 01:26 PM

So is this problem happening on the P-Bass you have listed in your profile or a different bass?

Gasman · #7 03-01-2009, 01:27 PM

Several things. First, your neck is straighter than you think, but your saddles are too high. Second, your strings a too light, you might need a heavier gauge (more pertinent if you are playing any anything lower than EADG). Third, as above, bad fret work, they need to be dressed. Fourth, neck warped or incorrectly seated in body of bass, may need to be shimmed. Also, is your intonation (string length as pertains to saddle distance from bridge) correct? Numbers three and four should probably be done be a professional, but you can do the first two and the intonation yourself easily.

bhass · #8 03-01-2009, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nella

So is this problem happening on the P-Bass you have listed in your profile or a different bass?

It's happening on my P-Bass. (God I wish I had more)

Quote:

Several things. First, your neck is straighter than you think, but your saddles are too high. Second, your strings a too light, you might need a heavier gauge (more pertinent if you are playing any anything lower than EADG). Third, as above, bad fret work, they need to be dressed. Fourth, neck warped or incorrectly seated in body of bass, may need to be shimmed. Also, is your intonation (string length as pertains to saddle distance from bridge) correct? Numbers three and four should probably be done be a professional, but you can do the first two and the intonation yourself easily.

Thanks for all of that! Got any tips on how I can do any of this stuff?
Is the test for correct intonation the 12th fret harmonic sounding the same as the 12th fret? If it is, then the intonation is correct.

Gasman · #9 03-01-2009, 01:39 PM

Yes, that's how I set my intonation. Also, there are several methods to check the degree of curvature (truss rod relief) on the neck. basically, fret the first fret and the 14th fret simultaneously (use a capo for one of these if you have one, just makes it easier but not necessary). Then, look at the 6th fret. There should be just enough room to slide a credit card through.

Also, try to sight the neck and see where the fretbuzz occurs. Does it occur mostly when the first through seventh frets are fretted? If so, you probably need more truss rod relief. If fretbuzz occurs in the upper registers, then less relief.

BTW, is your P-bass MIM or MIA?

Gasman · #10 03-01-2009, 01:42 PM

Sorry, forgot to answer another part of your question. You will need a small allen wrench to adjust your saddle height, and a phillips head screwdriver to adjust saddle length. For fret work or shimming a neck, again I would refer to a professional.

Another question- are you in standard tuning?

bhass · #11 03-01-2009, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gasman

Yes, that's how I set my intonation. Also, there are several methods to check the degree of curvature (truss rod relief) on the neck. basically, fret the first fret and the 14th fret simultaneously (use a capo for one of these if you have one, just makes it easier but not necessary). Then, look at the 6th fret. There should be just enough room to slide a credit card through.

Also, try to sight the neck and see where the fretbuzz occurs. Does it occur mostly when the first through seventh frets are fretted? If so, you probably need more truss rod relief. If fretbuzz occurs in the upper registers, then less relief.

BTW, is your P-bass MIM or MIA?

It occurs on every fret. Literally. I notice mostly on the lower frets, but that's only because I play most often there.
It's a MIM.

Sorry that I can't be of more help, this setup stuff really confuses me.

Edit: Yes, standard all the way.

Gasman · #12 03-01-2009, 01:46 PM

I had a problem with a MIM jazz neck some time ago. I put heavy gauge strings on it and tuned it to EADG. BAM!- neck warped, frets buzzed except at super high action, and I had to take it to a luthier who subseqently shimmed the neck, which improved to action, but it was never the same. I hope this doesn't sound familiar. I have read elsewhere that people have had these problems with MIM's, I think it's a softer wood (not maple) in the neck.

nella · #13 03-01-2009, 01:47 PM

Was the P=bass always playing like this or did the problem recently start? Did you replace the strings and the problem started?

bhass · #14 03-01-2009, 01:49 PM

The P bass has always played like this. Although after playing a really effortless bass at a store, I realised something was wrong with mine.

I have always used the same kind of strings, the problem has always been there.

dmusic148 · #15 03-01-2009, 01:49 PM

Buzzing on lower frets usually indicates that the neck is too straight, or even back-bowed. Loosening the truss SHOULD fix that. Gotta get a little relief there, just a little. Then adjust the action at the bridge to get it playing the way you want.

bhass · #16 03-01-2009, 01:56 PM

Can loosening the truss rod be done as many times as I want a day? Is it only tightening it I want to be wary of?

Gasman · #17 03-01-2009, 02:00 PM

I would only adjust one quarter to one half a turn per day. The wood need time to adjust.

bhass · #18 03-01-2009, 02:01 PM

I'll try that then. Loosen the neck and lower the action. Thanks everyone.

dmusic148 · #19 03-01-2009, 02:06 PM

You can adjust all you want, all day long. 99% of any neck adjustment will become apparent immediately. But the neck usually will move a tiny bit more over a day or so. It's always best to loosen the strings a lot before adjusting the neck, so the rod doesn't need to work as hard when turned.

randbguy · #20 03-01-2009, 04:02 PM

You only need to loosen the strings if you are tightening the truss rod. If you are loosening the rod you can leave the tension alone as you will have to tune up a bit when you have adjusted. You probably knew that but I'm just clarifying.