Go Back   TalkBass Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]
Register Rules/FAQ/CUP Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read



Supporting Membership
Thank You

Latest Supporting Member
Donate to Upgrade Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 06-27-2009, 03:02 PM
Livewire's Avatar
Unst unst unst unst
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Supporting Member
Fret Cleaner?

Sign in to disble this ad
Hey guys, the frets on my bass are pretty dirty, can anyone recommend me something that can clean/ make them like new again? Thanks a lot
  #2  
Old 06-27-2009, 03:56 PM
Registered User

Endorsing: Ampeg
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Apopka, FL
0000 steel wool and elbow grease.
__________________
Ampeg Portaflex Club #1
  #3  
Old 06-27-2009, 06:35 PM
Dirk Diggler's Avatar
Fan Fret Fan and Builder
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Anytown USA
Supporting Member
Yep that's what works best, but I'm not sure they still sell Elbow Grease anymore. And while your at it don't forget to condition your fingerboard.
Dirk
__________________
My bass build gallery:
Various Fan Fret Basses and Other Curious Builds
  #4  
Old 06-27-2009, 06:36 PM
Supportive Fender
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyM View Post
0000 steel wool and elbow grease.
+1, it has to be the "4x0" kind, and just keep it away from your pickups.

also, on rosewood/ebony boards you can use it to clean the whole thing, but on maple, you'll need to protect the finished wood from the steel wool with tape, or by using a piece of thin plastic with a fret-sized slot in it to let you shine the fret without scratching up the finished fretboard.
__________________
Walter Wright
Guitar Repair Gnome
Alpha Music, VA Beach
  #5  
Old 07-15-2009, 07:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Bowie, MD
Supporting Member
Dremel with a cotton wheel and flitz will make it look better than new! But you will have to tape off the board.
__________________
SX: Ursa2 6, 3 SJB75C 4+1, 3 SJB62, 2 SJB57, SPJ62, 2 SB301, Douglas:WVEB, WOB826, WPB955(fretless), 2 WPB980 (4 & 5),Yamaha BB404, Fullerton Ventura NT, Brice Z6, Squire Deluxe Jazz V
  #6  
Old 07-16-2009, 07:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
I use Brasso with a cotton cloth. Gets a mirror shine.
  #7  
Old 07-16-2009, 08:07 PM
Craig_S's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyM View Post
0000 steel wool and elbow grease.
Exactly what I was going to say.

Make sure you tape off the fretboard, regardless of the wood type, first. Put tape over the body, where the neck joins, and over your pickups, as well. When you are through, carefully remove the masking tape, so you dont dump the steel wool particles back onto the pickups. If it's a bolt on, you can always remove the neck.

Last edited by Craig_S : 07-16-2009 at 08:12 PM.
  #8  
Old 07-16-2009, 08:13 PM
ghiadub's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Auburn, CA
Supporting Member
another + for 0000 steel wool and tape on the wood

and another tip; hold a magnet behind the wool to catch the small wool hairs that fall off.
__________________
Play the music, not the instrument.
  #9  
Old 07-16-2009, 08:18 PM
Craig_S's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghiadub View Post
hold a magnet behind the wool to catch the small wool hairs that fall off.
Good tip, but I have slight OCD and I'd be bothered by the steel wool particles on the magnet, every time I looked at it. I'm serious...
  #10  
Old 07-16-2009, 08:45 PM
doktorfeelgood's Avatar
layin' it down like pavement
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: North Kingstown, Rhode Island
Supporting Member
I've always used 0000 steel wool along with the aforementioned elbow grease, and taped off the fretboard but stew-mac sells these and I've always wanted to get one...
Looks like the cat's meow... )-(

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting...rd_Guards.html
__________________
Fender Jazz Bass Club #187
Blues Bass Players Club #53
Traynor/Yorkville Club #16
Rhode Island Bass Players Club #6
  #11  
Old 07-16-2009, 09:00 PM
Craig_S's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by doktorfeelgood View Post
stew-mac sells these and I've always wanted to get one...
Looks like the cat's meow... )-(

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting...rd_Guards.html
Go buy yourself a draftsman's eraser shield for less than a buck. I prefer taping off the fretboard, personally. The shields are good for spot work, though.
  #12  
Old 07-16-2009, 09:12 PM
Registered User

Owner; Cody Electric Basses
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: bartlett illinois
[quote]Good tip, but I have slight OCD and I'd be bothered by the steel wool particles on the magnet, every time I looked at it. I'm serious.../QUOTE]


if you forget tape will get the particles off, at least most of them.

Mr Clean magic eraser will work, but you'll want tape the board.....

I prefer steel wool 0000
__________________
Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure
_______________________

C.P.&W club member
Dude Pit club member (davec)
  #13  
Old 07-17-2009, 01:12 PM
joeyl's Avatar
Quatre-cordes
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA /El Paso TX
Supporting Member
I don't understand why people use steel wool still, I use the synthetic wool, which is more like scotchbrite from Norton, it is just like 0000 wool without the metal dust, but that's just me
  #14  
Old 07-17-2009, 01:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Supporting Member
It all depends on how your shop is set up and what you're used to doing. A roll of sign makers tape is handy for quickly masking off the pickups, both from metal or abrasive particles. Steel wool is a bit less expensive than Scotchbrite. Servicing many guitars per year, that can add up.

The thing that is best about steel wool is that it actually burnishes metal and wood. Abrasives and chemicals just can't do that.

However, each method is a valid way to polish frets. Choose the one you like and master the technique.
  #15  
Old 07-17-2009, 01:52 PM
WarriorJoe7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Syracuse, NY
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by walterw View Post
+1, it has to be the "4x0" kind, and just keep it away from your pickups.

also, on rosewood/ebony boards you can use it to clean the whole thing, but on maple, you'll need to protect the finished wood from the steel wool with tape, or by using a piece of thin plastic with a fret-sized slot in it to let you shine the fret without scratching up the finished fretboard.
put masking tape (preferably double-sided) over the pickups completely.

And when using steel wool on the frets put masking tape on both sides of the current fret you are working on. The reuse the tape for the next fret. It's quick and easy to move it if you use masking tape. This protects the wood from scratches.
__________________
Joe G

available parts: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f129/f...s-list-757907/
  #16  
Old 07-17-2009, 01:54 PM
WarriorJoe7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Syracuse, NY
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig_S View Post
Good tip, but I have slight OCD and I'd be bothered by the steel wool particles on the magnet, every time I looked at it. I'm serious...
better on the magnet than on the pickups, on the floor, or in your nose...
__________________
Joe G

available parts: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f129/f...s-list-757907/
  #17  
Old 07-17-2009, 01:57 PM
WarriorJoe7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Syracuse, NY
Supporting Member
why is burnishing better?
__________________
Joe G

available parts: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f129/f...s-list-757907/
  #18  
Old 07-17-2009, 03:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Bowie, MD
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarriorJoe7 View Post
And when using steel wool on the frets put masking tape on both sides of the current fret you are working on. The reuse the tape for the next fret. It's quick and easy to move it if you use masking tape. This protects the wood from scratches.
I actually use this method when I'm Flitzing my frets. In fact I do 3 at a time (i.e., I tape off 3 frets spaced by 7).
__________________
SX: Ursa2 6, 3 SJB75C 4+1, 3 SJB62, 2 SJB57, SPJ62, 2 SB301, Douglas:WVEB, WOB826, WPB955(fretless), 2 WPB980 (4 & 5),Yamaha BB404, Fullerton Ventura NT, Brice Z6, Squire Deluxe Jazz V
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Follow TalkBass on Twitter   Visit TalkBass on Facebook  

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:39 AM.




Copyright 2011 Talk Music Group Inc. All rights reserved.
Play guitar? Visit our new sister site TalkGuitar.com [beta]
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.12
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.