fret seems to have recessed into fretboard

[b33r]

so i had a clamp on my bass to clamp my Lakland Skyline JO neck and body together while i screwed the neck back on, and it seems like i had clamped it on too tight.

apparently the 16th fret has been pushed further into the fretboard on the g-string side, and as a result i can't get a note out of it. it's like, for the 16th fret on the g-string, it's supposed to be a B note, but i'm getting a very buzzy C note instead. every other note on the other strings on the same fret is fine, though.

can anyone help me out here? maybe a way to pull the fret back out, somehow?

[Widdershins]

Originally Posted by b33r

so i had a clamp on my bass to clamp my Lakland Skyline JO neck and body together while i screwed the neck back on, and it seems like i had clamped it on too tight.

apparently the 16th fret has been pushed further into the fretboard on the g-string side, and as a result i can't get a note out of it. it's like, for the 16th fret on the g-string, it's supposed to be a B note, but i'm getting a very buzzy C note instead. every other note on the other strings on the same fret is fine, though.

can anyone help me out here? maybe a way to pull the fret back out, somehow?

By now I'm sure you've realized that a clamp was not required to attach the neck to the body. For a job such as this I would locate your nearest qualified luthier. You must know and respect the limits of your own abilities. Repairing your fret is significantly more difficult than re-attaching the bolt-on neck.

DO NOT try this yourself.

p.s. good luck and don't be too down about it. we've all made mistakes before.

[202dy]

Tools:

Fret puller
Straight edge (short)

Materials:
CA glue
Accelerator
Wax (optional)

1. Use the straight edge to determine where the fret is low.
2. Use the fret puller to gently lift the fret in the slot.
3. The fret end will tend to act as a spring when no longer held tightly by the wood on the slot sides. This is a good thing.
4. Apply a drop of CA glue to both sides of the fret.
5. Using the straight edge, push the fret down until the straight edge sets on the the frets located to the neck and bridge side of the subject fret.
6. Spray some accelerator onto the fret.
7. Hold for thirty seconds.
8. Check for level.
9. Clean up and if necessary, apply oil.

Notes:

Applying wax to the fingerboard on either side of the offending fret is suggested in many repair manuals. This is optional on unfinished fret boards because the glue can be quickly scraped off with a razor blade. On finished necks, it is standard procedure.

If the fret is seated to high after this process there are two choices. You can heat the fret with a soldering iron to release the glue bond and make a second attempt. Alternatively, the fret can be spot leveled, crowned, and polished.

Some folks will suggest removing the fret, rebending and installing, or installing a new fret. Nothing wrong with this technique. It is to be noted that pulling the fret can lead to chipping the fingerboard at the slot edges. That event will create a few more steps because the fingerboard will need to be repaired before the fret is installed.

This is a fairly advanced technique. If someone is new to glues, woodworking in general, or is still trying to figure out how a truss rod works, it is recommended that the instrument be left in the care of a skilled technician.

[b33r]

i wanted to clamp down the neck because when i screwed it back on, i would get a small gap in between the neck and the body. thanks to my OCD-ness, i just couldn't leave it alone. now there isn't a gap, but my fret is screwed.

looks like i've messed up big time, eh. i'll talk to a local luthier and pray he can fix it...and also that it won't cost too much. i have half a mind to just buy a replacement neck...

[Widdershins]

Originally Posted by b33r

i wanted to clamp down the neck because when i screwed it back on, i would get a small gap in between the neck and the body. thanks to my OCD-ness, i just couldn't leave it alone. now there isn't a gap, but my fret is screwed.

looks like i've messed up big time, eh. i'll talk to a local luthier and pray he can fix it...and also that it won't cost too much. i have half a mind to just buy a replacement neck...

Yup. That gap can be reduced by moving the neck with your hand.

Like I said we've ALL made mistakes... I superglued a nut in place once and then tried to remove it.

[Benjamin Strange]

Originally Posted by 202dy

Tools:

Fret puller
Straight edge (short)

Materials:
CA glue
Accelerator
Wax (optional)

1. Use the straight edge to determine where the fret is low.
2. Use the fret puller to gently lift the fret in the slot.
3. The fret end will tend to act as a spring when no longer held tightly by the wood on the slot sides. This is a good thing.
4. Apply a drop of CA glue to both sides of the fret.
5. Using the straight edge, push the fret down until the straight edge sets on the the frets located to the neck and bridge side of the subject fret.
6. Spray some accelerator onto the fret.
7. Hold for thirty seconds.
8. Check for level.
9. Clean up and if necessary, apply oil.

Notes:

Applying wax to the fingerboard on either side of the offending fret is suggested in many repair manuals. This is optional on unfinished fret boards because the glue can be quickly scraped off with a razor blade. On finished necks, it is standard procedure.

If the fret is seated to high after this process there are two choices. You can heat the fret with a soldering iron to release the glue bond and make a second attempt. Alternatively, the fret can be spot leveled, crowned, and polished.

Some folks will suggest removing the fret, rebending and installing, or installing a new fret. Nothing wrong with this technique. It is to be noted that pulling the fret can lead to chipping the fingerboard at the slot edges. That event will create a few more steps because the fingerboard will need to be repaired before the fret is installed.

This is a fairly advanced technique. If someone is new to glues, woodworking in general, or is still trying to figure out how a truss rod works, it is recommended that the instrument be left in the care of a skilled technician.

I have nothing to add here - this is the way.

[b33r]

is that like a standard procedure for these kind of repairs? i was thinking of sending this to my local luthier to see if he could do it.