Fretboard Noob

[Bobomb]

Im sure Im going to get grilled for this as there are probably many threads dedicated to my questions, but here I go:

So Im cleaning up my yamaha bb424x fretboard, its pretty gunky as I sweat quite a lot And my frets have gone slightly green (oxidizing ill assume), I plan on using naptha and a clean rag for the fretboard, the frets I have steel wool 0000, though I have heard some very negative things regarding steel wool. And I have some lemon oil I would like to put on the neck after the cleaning. Im wondering if the steel wool is a bad idea, and after I clean the fretboard, when can I/ how long until I can apply the lemon oil after the naptha cleaning, and how long I should leave the lemon oil on before removing it ( ill assume apply with a clean rage, and rub it off with a clean rag) Thanks for the help!

[testing1two]

How to clean oxidized frets

Watch the demo video for Gorgomyte. Super easy.

[202dy]

The method you have outlined will serve you just fine. Naphtha is the standard for cleaning fingerboards in professional shops for decades. Oil choices are debated here regularly with no end or consensus in sight. As long as the oil will not turn rancid, a characteristic of vegetable oils, all will be well. (Lemon oil is mineral oil with some lemon scent added.)

The "controversy" over using steel wool has nothing to do with frets and everything to do with pickups. Be neat and vacuum when you are finished with the steel wool nothing bad will happen. If you are not careful, some masking tape over the pole pieces will serve well.

[Low Main]

Naphtha is a good cleaner, but if the fretboard is a dark open grained wood, using the straight naphtha will most likely cause the board to blanch, showing white flecks in the grain pores.

So If you use naphtha, you'll be obliged to use a fretboard treatment of some sort to eliminate the whiting out in the pores.

I am not a fan of lemon oil or anything else in the "liquid furniture polish" category, as there may be unwanted additives such as silicone in the formula, and the oil film will linger in an uncured state, attracting more grime and other contaminants in the future.

An oil may also flow under the frets, acting as a resist and making it harder to reseat a fret or do a refret that involves CA glue or epoxy.

I've had good luck with waxes - you can choose the hardness of the wax, control the amount of solvent in it, and tint it to your needs. Waxes like paraffin and beeswax are too soft and gummy by themselves. Using a preblended paste wax like Trewax that has harder waxes in it or a preformulated microcrystalline wax is good.

No matter what you use, applying it carefully and sparingly is important. Just enough to get the coverage and appearance you need. Diligence in removing the excess is also important.

[JLS]

Like what? Liberon 0000 is industry standard, for cleaning fretboards.

Another internet fairy story, like, "don't turn the trussrod more than 1/32 of a turn per day, or the neck will explode!".

[Bassdirty]

Originally Posted by Low Main

.....I am not a fan of lemon oil or anything else in the "liquid furniture polish" category, ......

I have heard about this recently as well. I heard..NO lemon oil, but to use linseed oil insted. Now, as I said, I heard this. I don't have experience with the linseed just yet..but I plan to.

YMMV and all that..

[mjac28]

Also get a routine of regularly cleaning and taking care of your fretboard since you sweat more than usual. I use Guitar Honey between thorough cleanings.

[Dredmahawkus]

I just bought some fretdoctor after reading a bunch in the les paul forums....heard it works great on rosewood!

[Bobomb]

Wow thanks for all the helpful advice guys, so I picked up some ronsonol and im gonna attempt my application of it to the fretboard. How long after applying the ronsonol can I apply the mineral oil?

[202dy]

As soon as the cleaning is done. Wipe or scrape off the schmutz. Use a tool to get the crud from where the fret crown meets the fingerboard. After it's clean and the naphtha has flashed off it's time to apply oil.

[TRyan5289]

A razor blade can be used, but ONLY IF YOU DRAG AT 45 DEGREE ANGLE, DO NOT PUSH AND CUT YOUR BOARD, another tool is a credit card.

[Growly Lytes]

The can of worms has been opened.
Everyone uses something different.
Ive read & heard NOT to use Lemon Oil or Orange Oil or any Furniture Oil of any kind.
The only real Lemon Oil is from Health Food Stores in tiny little bottles that cost $20 & im 'sure' its not meant for conditoning wood.
Mineral Oil is supposed to be o.k to use but evaporates down the track.
Going off history & experienced Luthiers ' Linseed Oil is the weapon of choice but can smell or stay oily.Boiled Linseed Oil dries & can be used but smells.It looks great after a few coats, even after one.It gets darker with age & feels smooth.
I did more research & found using a Purified or Refined Linseed Oil,the type that artists use for painting is the best of the lot.It dries & doesnt smell like Raw or BLO.Only one coat is needed to protect & seal the Rosewood pours.If you want more sheen or darker wood you will need more coats.Ive chosen Refined Linseed Oil.I tested it on scrap Rosewood first & its awesome.
Anyway dont leave the Lemon Oil on your FB for long.After Naptha right after or whenever you have time just wipe the Oil on & off.Then buff it all as much as you can.Im sure the Lemon Oil will work but it may dry the wood out later if yo keep using it.
People will say they have used Lemon Oil for 30years with no ill effects but i wont use it ?