Fretboard peeled off!

RDY2RMBL · #1 10-12-2007, 01:34 PM

Well I did it this time. I bought a cheapo 60's bass in the classifieds here, and when I went to take off the strings, I discovered that the top part of the fretboard (the nut and the up to the fifth fret) is pulling away from the neck itself. The trussrod works and I got the neck straight, but the fretboard is still hanging off. It is a Tempo MIJ bass from the 60's, the little info I found about it was on harmony central. So anyways, the guy who sold it to me said the neck was fine when he sent it, or that he didnt know about it, so how do I fix this? Regular wood glue? Also one of the tuning machines lacks the silver part (washer?) that keeps it from moving around in the hole, and since it was tuned up this way when I got it, the machine was bent a little. I think it will be fine but I need another washer thing and I don't know where or how to find parts. Someone please help me with this lemon! Thanks in advance.

Bass Kahuna · #2 10-13-2007, 03:18 PM

For this type of repair, I will mix regular Titebond wood glue with just a bit of water to lower the viscosity (ie: make it thinner...), and then put a good amount of it in a glue injection syringe (stewmac sells `em, as do other woodworking stores.... woodcraft, rockler, etc...). You're also going to want a block of wood cut with a trough in it to kinda match the back of the neck profile for clamping, and a radius block to match the arch of the fingerboard

Take all of the strings off of the bass, and adjust the truss rod to where it is not putting any tension on the neck.

Next, remove the nut, and using a utility knife blade as a wedge, and GENTLY push it under the fingerboard where the nut was to open the crack up just a bit.

Using the syringe, inject glue into the crack at both sides of the neck. A decent amount of glue will be needed, but not TOO much!

Place the block of wood with the trough to match the neck profile behind the neck at the crack, and also place the radius block on top of the fingerboard. Using "C" clamps, clamp it all up with decent clamping pressure, don't muscle it down though. You should get glue squeezing out of the crack. Using a dampened rag, wipe off all of the glue squeeze out.

Let it sit for several days while clamped up to ensure the glue is dried. Take the clamps off, and wait about a week before putting strings back on to ensure that all of the moisture introduced into the neck with the glue is pretty much gone.

Put the nut back on with a dab of superglue (just a dab, only need enough to hold it in place), restring the bass, adjust the truss rod for proper relief, check and adjust the intonation if necessary, play it and check it all again in a week or so and make any fine tune adjustments to the truss rod and the rest of the setup if needed.

Pilgrim · #3 10-13-2007, 03:23 PM

Hey, that could be very fun instrument. Don't get upset, you can deal with it.

If you don't have the tools, skills or area to work on the neck as described, the best way to get that fretboard repaired is to take it to a luthier. It will be a simple repair for him, and shouldn't cost much. Since the fretboard will mave a huge influence on the playability of the instrument, I wouldn't try to fix it if I were a beginner. You also could really screw things up by using the wrong glue, not to mention improper clamping technique.,

The other part you refer to is called a ferrule, and they are available online from Stew-Mac and various guitar parts vendors. You will have to do some measuring (exterior diameter and inside diameter) but they're cheap and available. If you are smart and have the luthier fix the freatboard, he may have one or can provide one.

DO NOT get an oversize ferrule and hammer or force it in - you may split the headstock. You can buy sets of ferrules that will replace the missing one. If the tuner is just a bit bent. don't worry about it.

RDY2RMBL · #4 10-17-2007, 03:18 PM

A couple questions guys-

If I do this myself, do I need to clamp the entire fingerboard? Or just where it is pulling away? Also, about how much water do you use to dilute the glue? A ratio would be nice. Oh, and when you say adjust the trussrod to where it is not putting tension on the neck, that means loosen it right? Turning it counter-clockwise? Why is this necessary? And will it effect the clamping precedure since the neck will not be straight? Thanks in advance.

Oh and I picked up a set of fender bass tuner ferrules which should work fine, as the radius is the same.

202dy · #5 10-18-2007, 06:32 AM

One of the big issues is getting the old glue out of the crack. There is existing glue on both the fingerboard and the neck. Glue does not glue glue very well. The fingerboard is clamped off near the end of the crack. A very small wedge is inserted to open it up. Then there are choices to be made. Attack the glue with solvents or heat? Water will dissolve ordinary wood glues and hide glues. But there is no way to limit it's travel in the joint. And it will also swell the wood slowing the repair. An alternative is to gently heat the fingerboard under a strong light. Then a thin palette knife is heated and inserted in the joint. It will melt some of the glue and and the resulting residue can be cleaned from the knife. The process is repeated until the knife comes out clean. Then proceed with selected gluing technique.

There is truss rod information in the sticky at the top of the page. However, if you are asking which way to turn the truss rod to bring the neck to a neutral position it may behoove you to seek the services of a professional to make this repair.

RDY2RMBL · #6 10-19-2007, 10:27 PM

Ok thanks, I took it to our schools wood shop teacher who just happens to be a luthier hobbyist. So he took care of the neck. Now, I tried to tune it up with the new ferrules I put on, but the damn bent tuner broke. So I can't find any tempo bass parts out there, and now I have no g string. So how do I tell what kind of new tuning machines I need? I don't see many of the same style out there. Is there a way to tell if certain open gear ones will fit? The machines are pretty narrow and are close to the edge of the headstock. They screw in with four holes. Any suggestions guys?

RDY2RMBL · #7 11-06-2007, 09:20 PM

Ok well the project is officially done. The neck is fixed, I installed a set of peavey t-40 bass tuners which I had to do some drilling for, I sort of fixed the switch and fixed the butchered wiring, I got a lot of the relief out of the neck, the action is a good height, theres no fret buzz, the intonation is all good, and I installed a set of DR lo riders today which sound sweet. Pilgrim was right, this has become a fun instrument. It took a lot of work though, and I still need a switch to make it perfect, but that switch is impossible to find. Thanks for the help guys.

I'll post up some pics later...

RDY2RMBL · #8 11-07-2007, 03:59 PM

check out the mojo on this mother:

RDY2RMBL · #9 11-07-2007, 04:03 PM

more mojo: