Go Back   TalkBass Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]
Register Rules/FAQ/CUP Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read



Supporting Membership
Thank You

Latest Supporting Member
Donate to Upgrade Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 06-11-2006, 03:52 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Germany
Send a message via AIM to phxlbrmpf
Getting rid of dings in the back of the neck?

Sign in to disble this ad
My defretted Ibanez ATK has a whole load of slight dings in the back of the neck which makes playing it not that fun and I was wondering if there's a way to get rid of those. Should I try sanding the neck down and what should I use to do this? Also, what should I use to refinish the neck afterwards? Loads of thanks in advance.
__________________
http://www.myspace.com/mainin Main In | http://www.myspace.com/popesofny My silly solo project | Endorsing Artist: Antares Auto-Tune
  #2  
Old 06-11-2006, 09:16 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Canada
I say if they bug you then fix em. My brother is the technically minded one in the family and came up with a good sollution for my neck dings. He used 1000 grit sandpaper and lightly sanded them out. Feels great and no more dings. I think if the dings aren't too deep then it's an easy fix.
  #3  
Old 06-11-2006, 09:38 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Germany
Send a message via AIM to phxlbrmpf
Sounds like a plan, so if I use sandpaper, I won't have to refinish the neck?
__________________
http://www.myspace.com/mainin Main In | http://www.myspace.com/popesofny My silly solo project | Endorsing Artist: Antares Auto-Tune
  #4  
Old 06-11-2006, 09:40 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Canada
I didn't and to be honest with you, the neck felt a whole lot faster. Don't go crazy on the sanding and shape a swatch of sand paper to the neck so it sands evenly.
  #5  
Old 06-11-2006, 10:03 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Texas, USSA
You absolutely should put something on the bare wood. Doesn't have to be an inch-and-a-half-thick layer of polyester or lacquer, a single coat of clear satin, or even tung oil should be fine. If you don't coat it, the wood will be able to absorb moisture from the air (bad thing!).
__________________
R.I.P. Adrian...you are missed.
"using this as an excuse to spazz like a bunch of toddlers freebasing pop-rocks is not gonna fly."-JT
http://ourpitchforksandtorches.blogspot.com
  #6  
Old 06-11-2006, 11:54 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vancouver, BC
A good repairman (or repairwoman) can get lots of those dings out by steaming the wood. Not something you want to try at home, but in my opinion, the results are much better than just sanding it out.
LM
  #7  
Old 06-11-2006, 12:45 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: coastal N.C.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LM Bass
A good repairman (or repairwoman) can get lots of those dings out by steaming the wood. Not something you want to try at home, but in my opinion, the results are much better than just sanding it out.
LM
That's what I was thinking too. It is so simple that anyone can do it at home.

Steal someones steam iron. Set it so it barely sizzles when you drop water on it. Wet a terry towel and put about 2 thicknesses over the dent. just touch the pointed end over the dent untill it sizzles and give it about a minute between repeats. If the grain isn't broken in the depression, most if not all will pop back out. Just don't ever let the cloth get dry.

Give a dig through the search and I'll bet somebody has posted the process so it's easier to see.
__________________
"what" we type is "who" we are in cyberspace. Not only is big brother watching you, the whole world is watching you.
  #8  
Old 06-14-2006, 01:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Olympia, WA
before all of that I would experiment with drops of water in the wood and see if the wood swells up enought to fix the dings. that might only be a short-term fix.
  #9  
Old 06-14-2006, 09:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: arlington va
The steam thing really works, and it's not a short term fix. It works if the wood fibers are compressed, not if they're cut or broken. You can put a drop of water in the dent, then touch it with a hot soldering iron till it steams away. it really works

Geez, don't take sand paper to it! If the steam method doesn't work, just take some crazy glue and patiently and carefully and slowly drop fill the dents. level it with some fine sandpaper when they're filled
__________________
Skeptical but resigned
  #10  
Old 06-14-2006, 10:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Olympia, WA
low viscocity CA glue and very very carefully.
  #11  
Old 06-15-2006, 06:54 AM
HeavyDuty's Avatar
Supporting Curmudgeon
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Suburban Chicago, IL
Supporting Member
How to steam a dent: http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luth...steamout1.html.

He also has pages on how to drop fill (using lacquer, but the concept's the same) and other fixes.
__________________
Ken

If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to serve as a horrible warning.

As I cuddled the porcupine he said I had none to blame, but me.
  #12  
Old 06-15-2006, 07:52 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: conditional upon harmonic Hz
Use a solidering iron and cotton cloth. Saturate the cloth with water, and press it down on the dent with the tip of the solidering iron. It works, but it depends on the finish porosity. To wit, its an old gunsmith's technique and it work's SUPER well on oil finishes ( very porous ), but not so much on poly as the neck on one of my T40's. Raised them up though.

I finsihed with some 1500/2000 wet/dry sandpaper from an automotive supply place. Crocus cloth would be OK and not cut through the finish entirely.

Its the steam action that does it, so I wonder if chipping a small pice of finsih off the ding would help the steam enter the "wound".. try it and see.

If you sanded the poly finish off the neck for speed, they would totaly pop out. stem works well for those ding/chips around the headstock. again, the finish is chipped, so the steam can swell the wood fibers back easily.

HPH.

Peace. Out.
__________________
"With the power of Soul, anything is possible." JMH

Valenti 067 J5 w/NJ5 AudereZ6 "The Rainbow"
Lakland JO5/ Aero T1/passive "Blood" (raw magnetic mojo)
  #13  
Old 06-15-2006, 08:17 AM
guy n. cognito's Avatar
Secret Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Nashville, TN
GOLD Supporting Member
I used to work in an unfinished furniture store. To remove dents in wood, we would wet the dent, and then dry it slowly with a hair dryer, being careful not to scortch the wood. Sometimes it would take several applications, but the fix was permanent. A little sanding after raising the grain made the dent dissapear.
__________________
Fender / EBMM / Lakland / Ampeg

www.theresistanceband.net
www.facebook.com/resistanceband
  #14  
Old 06-15-2006, 08:27 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipndub
low viscocity CA glue and very very carefully.
CA glue = super glue?? I've fixed a couple of neck dents with super glue. Take your time and it's a good repair. No refinishing required, no accidental burns/scorches.
  #15  
Old 06-15-2006, 09:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: coastal N.C.
Absolutely no doubt that a soldering iron will work but I prefer a regular laundry iron because its lower temperature is much less likely to damage the finish.

If the finish develops a "blush", or whitening of the finish, it will usually disappear when everything cools down and dries out. If it doesn't completely go away a little polish will completely clear it up.
__________________
"what" we type is "who" we are in cyberspace. Not only is big brother watching you, the whole world is watching you.
  #16  
Old 06-16-2006, 11:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
When I defretted my atk 300 I sanded the back of the neck as well as the fingerboard because of the same issue - didn't have to take off much, and then I used the same polyurethane I finished the fingerboard with. Worked well.

Steve
__________________
Ibanez ATK305 & defretted ATK300(ATK club #10), Washburn Status 1000(Washburn club #8), Dean Rhapsody 12 string.
  #17  
Old 08-30-2008, 04:06 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Philadelphia
Resurecting this old thred to ask if any of these tips apply to an unfinished neck... I have a Warwick with an unfinished ovangkol neck. Can I use the steam repair? I'm not worried about cosmetics nearly as much as feel.
  #18  
Old 08-30-2008, 06:36 PM
HeavyDuty's Avatar
Supporting Curmudgeon
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Suburban Chicago, IL
Supporting Member
Steaming should work even better without a finish!
__________________
Ken

If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to serve as a horrible warning.

As I cuddled the porcupine he said I had none to blame, but me.
  #19  
Old 09-01-2008, 01:38 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wellington, Ontario, Canada
Send a message via MSN to Bass_masta16
Use a hammer and for your finish use some duct tape!

But on a serious note;

The sandpaper should work just fine
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannybuoy View Post
Kick your speakers in until they're trashed and turn your amp up to 11.
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Follow TalkBass on Twitter   Visit TalkBass on Facebook  

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:45 AM.




Copyright 2011 Talk Music Group Inc. All rights reserved.
Play guitar? Visit our new sister site TalkGuitar.com [beta]
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.12
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.