|  | 
02-14-2009, 05:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Florida | | | Glossy Neck Fix: 400 Super-Fine Too Course?
Sign in to disble this ad
I want to "satinize" the neck of a new bass, so I went to Home Depot today and picked up the finest grain sandpaper they had. It's Norton aluminum oxide 400 grit. This stuff seems pretty fine to me. I skipped over the Steel Wool 0000 because of the whole particles in the pups thing. There was no bronze wool.
If I take it slow and easy, am I going to screw the pooch with this 400 grit paper? Has anyone used 400 for this?
__________________ Quote: |
Originally Posted by referring to the bassist from King Diamond He is 100 times the musician that Jerko was | | 
02-14-2009, 05:37 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Halifax, NS, Canada | | | I'd wet sand, & start with 800.
Ultra fine grits are used in auto body repair. I'd go 800 & 1500, probably wouldn't bother with finer than that. | 
02-14-2009, 05:40 PM
|  | America's Favorite Hot Dog! | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: CHI/NWI | | | I wouldn't even use sandpaper. Try some 00 or 0 steel wool and be patient. All you want to do is knock the gloss off, not remove any actual finish. | 
02-15-2009, 03:32 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Halifax, NS, Canada | | I'm curious on the terms here. Though I know they are in common use they seems backward to me. I didn't even get why 'satin' until I thought of satin sheets.
For me the axis from rough to smooth goes 'matte' then 'satin' then 'glossy'. I'm used to this from photographic paper & have found it also used that way for paint. It seems we use the terms backwards; we go from 'gloss' to 'satin' when we make the neck back smoother.
Have I misunderstood something or is this just one of those weird conventions that have unfortunately become firmly set in stone?
(Rant mode off, back to attempting to contribute  )
Completely taping over the pickups with electrical tape should prevent steel wool chunks from becoming part of your bass. I'm still a wet-sand fan. | 
02-15-2009, 04:06 PM
| | | | cleaned up the neck on an old preci using the rough side of a new sponge normaly
used to clean the dishes. Not talking about those wire wool(Brilo)things, man thats just plain destruction work. We just want to take the gloss off and have a kinda wood feel. Absolute perfect trust me.The sponge is also very good
for rosewood boards ,with or without frets.
Steel wool(fine) is also good,and when your concerned about pu's,cover with tape.No problem.
Woffle | 
02-16-2009, 02:05 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: NY | | | +1 on scotch brite pads
Billiard players can attest since they use the pads to strip the cue sticks clean. | 
02-18-2009, 07:36 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tampa, FL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JustDavid I'm curious on the terms here. Though I know they are in common use they seems backward to me. I didn't even get why 'satin' until I thought of satin sheets.
For me the axis from rough to smooth goes 'matte' then 'satin' then 'glossy'. I'm used to this from photographic paper & have found it also used that way for paint. It seems we use the terms backwards; we go from 'gloss' to 'satin' when we make the neck back smoother.
Have I misunderstood something or is this just one of those weird conventions that have unfortunately become firmly set in stone?
(Rant mode off, back to attempting to contribute  )
Completely taping over the pickups with electrical tape should prevent steel wool chunks from becoming part of your bass. I'm still a wet-sand fan. | When you sand the neck, you are actually scratching the glossy finish, so it will appear to be matte. The glossiness comes from the smoothness of the finish ( mirror like). The satin/ matte look comes from the disruption of the smooth finish; the light does not bounce off of the neck evenly due to the pits from the sanding. A good analogy is the finish on my fret less board. It was very glossy when I applied the finish, and as the strings ate through it became less glossy and mirror like. The satin feeling comes from your thumb not sticking to the gloss.
__________________
Alvaro Torres Fool in the Rain Beelphegor | 
02-18-2009, 12:49 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Dacula, GA | | | I used 0000 steel wool from Wal-Mart to take that gloss off my neck,
and it REALLY does some work.
__________________
Official Ampeg Club Member #385; SX Bass Club Member in Good Standing Quote:
Originally Posted by rbonner I speak in Bobisms, and I haven't wrote the book with the translation to english yet. | | 
02-20-2009, 01:13 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Colorado | | | I've done this with several guitars. Extra fine #0000 steel wool provides a fine satin feel without the apparent deep scratches in finish that exist from more coarse products- like 400g paper. If you're worried about the whole particles in the pups thing apply painter's masking tape (blue colour) over top the entire pickups. Apply steel wool to the neck till satified with the overall satin feel. Finish by wiping down neck with a lite damn cloth or paper towel then use a toothbrush to clean the steel wool particles from the hardware-bridge, knobs and tape covering the pickups. Wipe down the strings with a dry cloth towel. Be sure to fan all the wool particles off prior to polishing the body.
HD sells 400 and 600 wet/dry paper in the paint/wood stain section along with various grades of steel wools and scotch-brite pads. Scotch-brite pads and 600g wet paper work fine too but are more coarse than 0000 steel wool.
__________________ Any bass you sell automatically doubles in value. | 
02-20-2009, 11:27 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Olympia, WA | | | high grit sandpaper Go to an auto parts store for the really fine grain stuff like 1K and up. Steel wool is nice because it conforms to the shape of the neck, but it creates steel filings that get everywhere and stick to your pickups. The mico sanding sheets as described about are very nice if they have the right grit for what you want. Be sure you are taking the sheen down evenly.
EDIT: good tips above for steel wool, hadn't thought of some of those things. | 
05-24-2009, 04:55 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Tucson Arizona | | | I know at least 5 pro players that all they use is J basses witht he neck sanded down to the wook ( long process with 200 grit down to 0000 steel wool ) and then lemon oil it to death it takes about a month and you have to keep using the 0000 to smooth it out that first month but after that man they swear by it and I felt it, it was very nice. And yes after time it gets a light grey green color ( think it adds character ). | 
05-25-2009, 01:11 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by WoollyMammoth I know at least 5 pro players that all they use is J basses witht he neck sanded down to the wook ( long process with 200 grit down to 0000 steel wool )
And yes after time it gets a light grey green color . |
Use a blade of a pocket knife to scrape the finish off. Keep blade at 90deg angle to wood. Might want to practice on something else first  Follow with sand paper or steel wool.
If using wet paper, you can sand with the oil you finish with instead of water.
Back of mine turn gray /black
__________________
David
Will Funk for Cake
| 
05-25-2009, 01:34 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by bassrique I want to "satinize" the neck of a new bass, so I went to Home Depot today and picked up the finest grain sandpaper they had. It's Norton aluminum oxide 400 grit. | If you just want to knock the gloss off and not entirely remove the finish, 400 grit is fine. I just did that to my Ibanez bass, and it worked great. I followed up with a 0000 scotchbrite pad, to smooth it bit. I don't like a glossy neck, either.
Ed | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is On | | | |