Which glue for bass wood body / strap button?

[bass player 48]

After my last rehearsal I noticed that one strap button has become very loose. Close call! Bass wood is so soft, I'm not even going to bother tightening the screw without adding some glue. I play hard and don't want to risk a failure.

Super Glue? Carpenters wood glue? Gorilla Glue? Other?

I know I've used Super Glue on a strap button / bass wood body for my step son, and on any other bass, I'd just do that - but this bass is just my absolute favorite ("nicer" basses sit while this one get's played)...so I want a long lasting, proper repair.

What is the best glue for a strap button in Bass Wood?

[kingquasar]

The proper way to do this would be to drill out the strap button hole with like a 1/4" bit and plug that with a dowell (just using wood glue would be fine). Then redrill the strap button hole in the dowell plug.

-kQ

[bass player 48]

Originally Posted by kingquasar

The proper way to do this would be to drill out the strap button hole with like a 1/4" bit and plug that with a dowell (just using wood glue would be fine). Then redrill the strap button hole in the dowell plug.

-kQ

Actually, you are mistaken. A dowel will still give you end grain and the screw will eventually strip being that it’s screwed into the end grain of the dowel. Really, the proper way is to drill the bass as you described and then use a plug cutter to cut the plugs out of a solid piece of wood with the grain oriented correctly to avoid screwing the strap button into end grain.

BUT, It’s a moot point because either way – it ain’t gonna happen. I’m not a wood worker and it’s not a high dollar bass.

I AM GOING TO glue the strap button in and tighten it up (the hole isn’t even stripped yet)… the question, again, is:

what is the best glue to bond with a strap button screw and bass wood?

[patman01]

I'm no luthier

I put a very small piece of toothpick in the hole--with some titebond.

YMMV

[Ric5]

Originally Posted by patman01

I'm no luthier

I put a very small piece of toothpick in the hole--with some titebond.

YMMV

That is a good trick ... I've used it a few times ...

[Mr-Wunderful]

Originally Posted by Ric5

That is a good trick ... I've used it a few times ...

ME too. Works fine.

[edbass]

Originally Posted by patman01

I'm no luthier

I put a very small piece of toothpick in the hole--with some titebond.

YMMV

I've also done this several times, but I coat the toothpick piece with plain old Elmers.
I have basses with strap buttons that still are tight after 20 years using this method.

[Caca de Kick]

For this I have always used 3M superglue, because it wicks into the wood and makes it harder.
Just becareful not to let any glue "spiderwebs" string across the finish, or you're screwed.

[kingquasar]

Originally Posted by bass player 48

Actually, you are mistaken. A dowel will still give you end grain and the screw will eventually strip being that it’s screwed into the end grain of the dowel. Really, the proper way is to drill the bass as you described and then use a plug cutter to cut the plugs out of a solid piece of wood with the grain oriented correctly to avoid screwing the strap button into end grain.

Not to split hairs here BUT... the strap buttons are always screwed into end grain. I've never seen a bass body constructed w/vertically oriented grain.

Form the original post I was under the impression you wanted to do this correctly. The dowell thing would take you 10 minutes max (+drying time) and next to no woodworking skill.

If you are dead set on just shooting some glue in there I might recommend mixing in a healthy dose of saw dust into just some standard wood glue (titebond, etc) to give you a little extra "tooth".

-kQ

[Jim Breece]

I've used dowels and made plugs and have gone back to the toothpick and whatever wood glue is around. They all work equally well in my experience. The one thing I don't do anymore is use felt washers. Those seem to increase the likelihood of the screw loosening up, which leads to stripping.

[HogieWan]

I've used toothpicks and wooden matchsticks, but never used any glue - they held just fine

[Steveaux]

Standard Elmer's Wood Glue, the tan stuff, sets up harder than any wood to which I've applied it. The wood will splinter and split before the glue.

Since yours isn't worn-out yet ...

Get a drop of glue in the hole, put a little on a cleaned screw (alcohol works fine), don't forget the button. Install the screw with proper torque. Let it set over night.

The glue fills in the "wiggle room" that allows the screw to wear out the hole. They last a long time.

If you ever have to remove the screw, heat it with a soldering iron.

[Earthquake]

Gorilla glue works great for holding a screw into wood. It expands a lot so use just a drop. Also make sure to wet the inside of the hole with water with a q-tip because it is required for gorilla glue. The expansion of the glue makes for a tight fit because it fills in around the threads on the strap button. If you use too much glue it will come back out of the hole when it cures.

[Foamy]

Originally Posted by Earthquake

Gorilla glue works great for holding a screw into wood. It expands a lot so use just a drop. Also make sure to wet the inside of the hole with water with a q-tip because it is required for gorilla glue. The expansion of the glue makes for a tight fit because it fills in around the threads on the strap button. If you use too much glue it will come back out of the hole when it cures.

I would not recommend this.
Not that it is not true......

Gorilla glue can expand onto the bass' finish. It WILL also stain your skin and ruin any clothing - at least Elmer's and Titebond will peel off.
It's just something that, until you have seen how much this stuff expands, you won't believe it and you may end up ruining the finish on your bass.

[JustDavid]

Originally Posted by bass player 48

What is the best glue for a strap button in Bass Wood?

One that will permit removal of the screw at a later date should that be desired.

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by JustDavid

One that will permit removal of the screw at a later date should that be desired.

Absolutely!

Here's a variation of the ol' toothpick / glue trick. Works great and allows the screw to be removed at a later time if so desired:

1) Mix a small quantity of JB Weld. Generously coat a round toothpick with the mixture.

2) Tape off the immediate area around the screw hole. Insert the toothpick slowly. Trim off any excess.

3) A small amt. of JB Weld will ooze from the site. Wipe off immediately.

4) Allow the patch to cure for a day or so.

5) Using a Dremel tool and micro-bit, drill a narrow pilot hole. Here's the neat part: the drill bit will follow the path of the softer "sacrificial" toothpick so the hole will be pretty much dead-center.

6) Re-install the strap button and screw. The screw will tap the patch with minimum effort.

Riis

[Bassman203]

I love the toothpick method. I've used it for lot's of things.

[mongo2]

Years ago, I once had to do an emergency strap button repair at a gig.

I went across the street to a Chinese resturant, grabbed a pack of chopsticks, jammed one in the hole, snapped it off and screwed the button back on. It's still holding and I still have the other chopstick in my gigbag.

[castleshade13]

i use artist glue for those little war miniatures

i used that super glue on my strap button that fell out 3 years ago and its still rock solid!

Also makes it water tight

[Pilgrim]

Zooberwerx' method is just about ideal and should avoid re-loosening. I'm not the biggest fan of JB weld in that spot, but given his application method it can be drilled out later if necessary.

If you go the glue/toothpick route, I recommend NOT using super glue or gorilla glue. They are much harder to work with if you ever need to go back in there - and when working with wood, it is often desirable to leave yourself options later.

My vote in that case is toothpick and Titebond, since Titebond can be loosened/removed with application of heat.