Godin SD - truss rod nut chewed and frozen

[BillyRay]

I got this bass in a trade for my BA-115. There is a bit too much bow in the neck for my liking, I'd like to get it straighter and raise the saddles for a medium action.

When I went to adjust the truss rod I found out that:
a) The nut is pretty chewed up. It will take an hex key for now, but it is chewed up, as if someone tried to adjust it with the wrong sized tool.

b) It won't turn either way. Well, that's not true, it will turn only clockwise (??) and emit a loud squeaking noise while doing so. I had to exert force in order to have in move. It won't turn the other way. I wasn't able to turn more than 1/8" and had to remove the neck in order to do so (adjustement at the heel).

The neck is fine in appearance and there's no funny noises or rattling when the bass is played, only normal string buzz and noise.

Am I screwed and need to get this to a pro or is there something I can do myself ?

[62bass]

Originally Posted by BillyRay

I got this bass in a trade for my BA-115. There is a bit too much bow in the neck for my liking, I'd like to get it straighter and raise the saddles for a medium action.

When I went to adjust the truss rod I found out that:
a) The nut is pretty chewed up. It will take an hex key for now, but it is chewed up, as if someone tried to adjust it with the wrong sized tool.

b) It won't turn either way. Well, that's not true, it will turn only clockwise (??) and emit a loud squeaking noise while doing so. I had to exert force in order to have in move. It won't turn the other way. I wasn't able to turn more than 1/8" and had to remove the neck in order to do so (adjustement at the heel).

The neck is fine in appearance and there's no funny noises or rattling when the bass is played, only normal string buzz and noise.

Am I screwed and need to get this to a pro or is there something I can do myself ?

I don't know why it won't turn counterclockwise. It's possible it's been cross threaded. At any rate, you have to take the nut off. Better take it to a pro. Once the nut is off, he can assess whether the truss rod is okay and it just needs a new nut or if the rod is shot, requiring a much more expensive fix. Don't try forcing it clockwise any more.

[BillyRay]

Well, since this was a trade bass, I'll probably just slap whatever light gauge cheapies I can find in order to have the neck bow back a bit and just enjoy it as is until I really have a need for another bass: then I'll shell out the cash, either for pro repairs or just for anoter Godin neck (Godin is a canadian company so they are somewhat plentiful around here). My Lakland gets the call every gig nowadays and I already have another backup bass.

[BillyRay]

BTW, for those who are fearful of doing minor adjustements themselves, this instrument was damaged by a supposedly competent technician that did all the setup work for the previous owner.

My take is: take it to a luthier or a guy who only does repair work. Most guys working in large chain stores or doing it on the side are hacks.

[Oren Hudson]

You might try one other easy possible fix. Get some penetrating oil and spray all over, around, under, wherever, the nut and rod. Let it soak and you may get it to free up and take it from there. I use a mail order product called Kroil. It's a "creeping" penetrant. I first learned about it when I broke a spark plug off in the block of a car that had not had the plugs changed in a very long time. I sprayed the Kroil in and the plugs came right out. LOL

[lowdowndad]

Originally Posted by Oren Hudson

You might try one other easy possible fix. Get some penetrating oil and spray all over, around, under, wherever, the nut and rod. Let it soak and you may get it to free up and take it from there. I use a mail order product called Kroil. It's a "creeping" penetrant. I first learned about it when I broke a spark plug off in the block of a car that had not had the plugs changed in a very long time. I sprayed the Kroil in and the plugs came right out. LOL

DO NOT SPRAY PENETRATING OIL ALL OVER ANYTHING ON A BASS OR GUITAR!!!
It will leave stains all over the area of spray. Use a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil only.
LowDownDad

[Oren Hudson]

LowDownDad - you misread my advice I specifically said spray the truss rod/nut, NOTHING ELSE I've never used any penetrants that stained my guitar when used as I directed, not even the truss rod area. You also need to double check your advice. 3 in 1 oil comes in many types, one of which IS a penetrant.

[BillyRay]

I'll probably just have a luthier build a fretless neck in the future or pick up an old SD and salvage the neck. The chewed nut is probably an indicator that the truss rod is stuck and replacing it is not much of an option (double action and no skunk stripe). Sad since there's a lot of birdseye in the maple.

The pickups are insanely hot (and good sounding) + the body is lightweight and resonant wich makes it a prime candidate for a frankenjob.

But it'll have to wait since my car broke down again. 3 times in a two weeks span so money is tight.

[Chasarms]

Originally Posted by BillyRay

I'll probably just have a luthier build a fretless neck in the future or pick up an old SD and salvage the neck. The chewed nut is probably an indicator that the truss rod is stuck and replacing it is not much of an option (double action and no skunk stripe). Sad since there's a lot of birdseye in the maple.

The pickups are insanely hot (and good sounding) + the body is lightweight and resonant wich makes it a prime candidate for a frankenjob.

But it'll have to wait since my car broke down again. 3 times in a two weeks span so money is tight.

I wouldn't assume the rod has failed. I would remove the nut and put a washer behind it. Often that is all that is needed to get it to turn freely. Replace the nut at the same time.

It is pretty rare that you actually need to lube a trussrod. However, many moons ago when I worked in a shop, we would remove the truss nut and tap a little bit of powdered graphite down around the rod. It works far better than any oil.

[BillyRay]

I might not have to worry at all since I tried the bass out yesterday and apart from highish action (I don't like my action too low either), the fret buzz was gone with some minor saddle adjustement.

I'd describe it as medium-high, but since it's basically a jazz neck with a chunkier profile, it still feels very comfy. If it were flat and thin, I'd imagine my hands would cramp faster.

And with the bridge pup soloed, it's a force to be reckoned with, especially played with a pick: the lakland split pu is a lot nicer (warmer, vintage) though. It is almost too warm and deep...

Anyway, the j sounds so punchy I wondered for a while if I was the one producing that sound

[BillyRay]

I wouldn't assume the rod has failed. I would remove the nut and put a washer behind it. Often that is all that is needed to get it to turn freely. Replace the nut at the same time.

It is pretty rare that you actually need to lube a trussrod. However, many moons ago when I worked in a shop, we would remove the truss nut and tap a little bit of powdered graphite down around the rod. It works far better than any oil.
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The thing is, since it is a double action rod, I can't phantom I would be able to remove the nut without having it be able to turn counterclockwise.

And the washer trick works on double action too ? I thought it was solely for single action rods.