Has anyone used using aluminum tape for shielding

[steve66]

I have a large roll of Aluminum Tape the kind the A/C guys use to seal duct work. It has an adhesive backing and its easy to get in any home depot. I put an ohm meter on the front and sticky side of the tape and got a reading of 0 ohms. I never tried to solder it, but since the adhesive is conductive, there may not be a need to.

Has anyone used this in shielding? Most people use copper

Any tips? Pros and Cons?

[62bass]

There was a thread a while back on using aluminium foil for shielding. Maybe check it out.

If it's conductive I can't see why that tape wouldn't work. Anyhow, it's pretty cheap to try it out. You won't be able to solder it but you can figure out a way around that.

[pkr2]

Maintaining tight connections may prove to be a long term problem because an aluminum surface becomes coated with an oxide when it's exposed to the air and it's not completely conductive. Aluminum wire is frowned upon in building wiring for just that reason.

It would be a better idea if there was more to be saved by using the tape. The price of the copper too low to really make any difference.

If your time, and neatness count, I would go ahead and spring for a can of shielding paint. It seems to work just as well as copper and can be done in a fraction of the time.

The smallest quantity that you can buy is enough to do several instruments and it's reasonably priced.

Sorry to be negative. If you use the tape, let us know how it works out. The "no soldering" part makes it tempting to at least try. It may work fine.

[steve66]

Originally Posted by pkr2

Maintaining tight connections may prove to be a long term problem because an aluminum surface becomes coated with an oxide when it's exposed to the air and it's not completely conductive. Aluminum wire is frowned upon in building wiring for just that reason.

It would be a better idea if there was more to be saved by using the tape. The price of the copper too low to really make any difference.

If your time, and neatness count, I would go ahead and spring for a can of shielding paint. It seems to work just as well as copper and can be done in a fraction of the time.

The smallest quantity that you can buy is enough to do several instruments and it's reasonably priced.

Sorry to be negative. If you use the tape, let us know how it works out. The "no soldering" part makes it tempting to at least try. It may work fine.

Thanks for the information. I had a house where it had a Aluminum Electrical Main Shunt. The city replaced it with copper wire going to the electric box,. They said the aluminum wiring was a fire hazard.

I believe copper oxidizes under the same circumstances/ conditions (turns green). I am going to create templates of the control cavity and pickup cavities. This way if I have to shield it again with copper, all I would need to do is trace around the templates and cut out the pieces. Probably save a ton of time

[JimmyM]

I always use aluminum tape to shield. Works great.

[PilbaraBass]

i have trouble finding aluminum and copper tape...so I make my own tape using carpet tape and aluminum foil...

it's a little messier than the other two alternatives, but it definitely works...and it's a WHOLE lot better than just using aluminum foil

...contrary to popular belief...joints are conductive, so you don't have to do anything fancy, just overlay it...

I've used it to shield two basses and half a dozen electronics project boxes.

[PilbaraBass]

Originally Posted by steve66

Thanks for the information. I had a house where it had a Aluminum Electrical Main Shunt. The city replaced it with copper wire going to the electric box,. They said the aluminum wiring was a fire hazard.

I believe copper oxidizes under the same circumstances/ conditions (turns green). I am going to create templates of the control cavity and pickup cavities. This way if I have to shield it again with copper, all I would need to do is trace around the templates and cut out the pieces. Probably save a ton of time

there's a big difference...aluminum oxide is non-conductive and can cause "hot joints" (high resistance connections that CAN get hot enough to cause fires).

Copper oxides, on the other hand, are conductive and don't offer up nearly the same kind of resistance...however, hot joints can still occur on copper joints.

but we're talking shielding here, not high-current conductors.

[steve66]

I just went out and ordered a half pint of conductive paint and 2"x180" Copper Tape from Stew Mac. I will end up paint grounding a few of my basses and use the tape for shielding the pickups.

Thanks for all your replys

[PilbaraBass]

Originally Posted by steve66

I just went out and ordered a half pint of conductive paint and 2"x180" Copper Tape from Stew Mac. I will end up paint grounding a few of my basses and use the tape for shielding the pickups.

Thanks for all your replys

are you sure you don't want to do that the other way around

LOL...seriously, though...sounds like a plan...

[steve66]

Originally Posted by PilbaraBass

are you sure you don't want to do that the other way around

LOL...seriously, though...sounds like a plan...

I still may use copper for the wire routes (pickup cavities to Control cavity, bridge). Looks like a PITA to get the paint in there

[PilbaraBass]

Originally Posted by steve66

I still may use copper for the wire routes (pickup cavities to Control cavity, bridge). Looks like a PITA to get the paint in there

just use shielded wire...

[steve66]

Originally Posted by PilbaraBass

just use shielded wire...

I may need to do that. Or do what Lyle did with the copper, Just get it through and peel it like a banana.

[steve66]

I Just received the conductive shielding paint and copper tape in the mail from Stew Mac. What I didn't realize was that the route between the control cavity and the neck pickup is wide open on the MIM. Since the Lindy Fralins PUPs I have on order have not come in yet, I may "add some wood to the open space between the neck pickup and control cavity, unless there is a efficient way to shield it. I see 2 problem areas.

In order to properly shield this bass, I am going to need to put some copper tape on the pickguard to cover where the neck pickup and route are located and extend the tape over the space between the control plate so the copper tape sits between the body and the control plate screw.

Since I am going to use the conductive paint in the neck pickup, control cavities, bridge pick up and bridge route (to eliminate the bridge ground wire) I am going to use a piece of copper tape from the cavity to the the same control plate screw (to eliminate possible ground loop.

I am also going to remove the soldered pot grounds and tie each to the negative output. and finally the negative pickup leads will be start grounded to the cavity.

The question is what have I missed?

[DavidRavenMoon]

Originally Posted by steve66

I Just received the conductive shielding paint and copper tape in the mail from Stew Mac. What I didn't realize was that the route between the control cavity and the neck pickup is wide open on the MIM. Since the Lindy Fralins PUPs I have on order have not come in yet, I may "add some wood to the open space between the neck pickup and control cavity, unless there is a efficient way to shield it.

You don't have to do all that. Just paint the area with conductive paint. I'd run some copper tape down first, and solder a wire to it, then paint over that.

You don't have to seal off every spot. After all, you are going to be using single coils, and they are like a big hum receptor.

Originally Posted by steve66

Since I am going to use the conductive paint in the neck pickup, control cavities, bridge pick up and bridge route (to eliminate the bridge ground wire) I am going to use a piece of copper tape from the cavity to the the same control plate screw (to eliminate possible ground loop.

The shield is all one piece. I wouldn't worry about ground loops. Your amp and effects are in metal boxes, and they don't have ground loops. The amount of signal to ground is very small. I'd keep your pickup commons separate from the grounds as long as you can though.

And way are you removing the bridge ground wire? That's going to make a lot of noise.

Originally Posted by steve66

I am also going to remove the soldered pot grounds and tie each to the negative output. and finally the negative pickup leads will be star grounded to the cavity.

I really wouldn't worry so much. Every bass you buy had the pots grounded. That metal can is part of the shield. I have yet to use star grounding on a bass in the 37 or so years I've been wiring them up.

Just keep your connections clean, and use shielded wire where you can.

Originally Posted by steve66

and use the tape for shielding the pickups.

Oh and don't wrap copper tape around a pickup coil to form a closed loop. You can shield pickups this way, but you either need to leave a gap between the ends, or use some electrical tape to insulate the two ends of the foil tape from each other. The reason is if you form a conductive single loops around a pickup, you will mess the tone of the pickup up. You'll end up with harsh or dull highs.

[steve66]

Originally Posted by DavidRavenMoon

You don't have to do all that. Just paint the area with conductive paint. I'd run some copper tape down first, and solder a wire to it, then paint over that.

You don't have to seal off every spot. After all, you are going to be using single coils, and they are like a big hum receptor.



The shield is all one piece. I wouldn't worry about ground loops. Your amp and effects are in metal boxes, and they don't have ground loops. The amount of signal to ground is very small. I'd keep your pickup commons separate from the grounds as long as you can though.

And way are you removing the bridge ground wire? That's going to make a lot of noise.



I really wouldn't worry so much. Every bass you buy had the pots grounded. That metal can is part of the shield. I have yet to use star grounding on a bass in the 37 or so years I've been wiring them up.

Just keep your connections clean, and use shielded wire where you can.



Oh and don't wrap copper tape around a pickup coil to form a closed loop. You can shield pickups this way, but you either need to leave a gap between the ends, or use some electrical tape to insulate the two ends of the foil tape from each other. The reason is if you form a conductive single loops around a pickup, you will mess the tone of the pickup up. You'll end up with harsh or dull highs.

DavidRavenMoon thanks for your reply.

So all I need to do is paint all the cavitys (neck pup, bridge pup, bridge pup route and bridge route)? Then test with an ohm meter.
So there is no need to copper tape the back of the pickguard?
I will keep the bridge wire intact as you recommended.
You wouldnt ground the individual pots to the output lug or star ground the negative pickup wires and bridge ground wire to the cavity?

If this is the case, then it will be very easy

Thanks again

[DavidRavenMoon]

The copper tape behind the pickguard is a good idea. You don't need to add a wood block though.

You can do star grounding if you like. I've never found a need for it, but it is good practice. I don't have two million ground connections, and I do try to solder all my grounds to the same pot case, but that's not always possible. Many onboard preamps, like the EMG and Basslines stuff have multiple grounds to pot cases. These work perfectly fine this way, and changing the grounds wont improve anything. EMG also uses a large diameter buss wire to connect all the pots on their prewired Strat pickguards. I think EMG knows how to wire stuff!

As I said, star grounding is good electronic practice, and in some situations needed. But web sites like Guitarnutz have turned it into an urban legend! I wouldn't follow anything on that site. That includes wrapping a wire around your finger (!?!?) , and wrapping your pickups in foil.

You can ground the back of the pots, and cut the copper tape away from where they contact the pickguard if you like. Alternately, you can let them touch the foil for grounding, and remove the wires. The problem with the latter is if your pots come a bit loose, you wont have a good ground contact.

Just be neat and tidy, don't use wire any longer than you need, have good solder joints, and the bass should sound great.

That's my opinion anyway.

Oh, and have fun doing it.

[steve66]

Originally Posted by DavidRavenMoon

The copper tape behind the pickguard is a good idea. You don't need to add a wood block though.

You can do star grounding if you like. I've never found a need for it, but it is good practice. I don't have two million ground connections, and I do try to solder all my grounds to the same pot case, but that's not always possible. Many onboard preamps, like the EMG and Basslines stuff have multiple grounds to pot cases. These work perfectly fine this way, and changing the grounds wont improve anything. EMG also uses a large diameter buss wire to connect all the pots on their prewired Strat pickguards. I think EMG knows how to wire stuff!

As I said, star grounding is good electronic practice, and in some situations needed. But web sites like Guitarnutz have turned it into an urban legend! I wouldn't follow anything on that site. That includes wrapping a wire around your finger (!?!?) , and wrapping your pickups in foil.

You can ground the back of the pots, and cut the copper tape away from where they contact the pickguard if you like. Alternately, you can let them touch the foil for grounding, and remove the wires. The problem with the latter is if your pots come a bit loose, you wont have a good ground contact.

Just be neat and tidy, don't use wire any longer than you need, have good solder joints, and the bass should sound great.

That's my opinion anyway.

Oh, and have fun doing it.

Dave, Thanks for all your input. I am just waiting on the pickups to arrive to get started on the shielding