Heart broken (damaged neck content)

GeneralElectric · #1 03-16-2010, 03:26 PM

My main P-bass took a big tumble and it came down on the side of my amp and smacked the neck. Now there's a huge piece missing from the side of the neck between frets 5 and 7. I have the big wood splinter and the smaller one as well.

Is this a home repair or do I have to take it in? Ideally I'd like to find a way to refit and glue it and level it all out. However there isn't any finish on the back of the neck really, and I feel it'd stick out like a sore thumb.

Super glue and a refin for the neck?

Pictures soon

jmercer91 · #2 03-16-2010, 03:28 PM

super glue oughta do!

**251** · #3 03-16-2010, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeneralElectric

My main P-bass took a big tumble and it came down on the side of my amp and smacked the neck. Now there's a huge piece missing from the side of the neck between frets 5 and 7. I have the big wood splinter and the smaller one as well.

Is this a home repair or do I have to take it in? Ideally I'd like to find a way to refit and glue it and level it all out. However there isn't any finish on the back of the neck really, and I feel it'd stick out like a sore thumb.

Super glue and a refin for the neck?

Pictures soon

Bummer. Time to put your bass in its bag at gigs? Give the repair a try. I prefer Duco Cement for wood repair. Patiently fit the pieces, disassemble, apply the glue, reassemble with glue applied & wipe off the excess. The next day, smooth everything out with sandpaper grading down to 600 grit.

What's the worst that can happen? It will look like a scarred veteran? You won't be happy with the repair & you will pay someone to fix it? You will buy a new neck & refit the tuners? You will get a new Bass? See the PM, I sent.

A-Step-Towards · #4 03-16-2010, 04:56 PM

Your white one? bummer for sure, i would not refin it i would let the scar show but i think depending on how bad it is you could probably fix it with super glue , see how it holds and if it comes off then take it to a pro.

Pilgrim · #5 03-16-2010, 06:55 PM

If you care about that neck, either take it to a pro OR study carefully about how to repair it.

DO NOT slap super glue on it. That is the wrong glue.

(Respectfully) I suggest you not use Duco Cement on it. Anything titled "cement" is the wrong glue for a wood repair of this type. You need a white-type glue designed for wood.

If you decide to repair it yourself, the appropriate glue will be Tite-Bond or some other glue specifically designed for wood. You should also post pictures of the damage before attempting ANYTHING and get counsel from experienced folks here.

I'm not sure this is one you should try - so post pics before doing anything!

ewimsatt · #6 03-17-2010, 02:34 PM

Pilgrim is exactly correct. This is a job for titebond. If you attempt it and mess it up, don't expect many techs to take it on. The hardest repairs imaginable are fixing glue mistakes from previous repairs. Post some pics and we'll have a much better idea of what is needed.

mongo2 · #7 03-17-2010, 02:58 PM

I've used both Superglue and Titebond to fix various neck repairs including busted off headstocks, cracks, and splinters. I've never had a problem with either glue.

What I liked about one repair I did with superglue (a cracked off side of an acoustic headstock right through all 3 tuner holes) was that I didn't have to refinish the repair area, the glue looked just fine when leveled and polished.

Govier966 · #8 03-17-2010, 02:59 PM

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/crack.htm idk if its this severe but this may help. Good luck!

Pilgrim · #9 03-17-2010, 09:56 PM

Mongo, that's good to hear. I had reservations about the long-term adhesion/durability of super glue on wood repairs, but before sending this response, I did some quick homework online. Couldn't find anything indicating problems with long-term adhesion of super glue on wood. I learned something as a result of your comment!

I agree that super glue is easy to get off finish (with acetone) provided the finish around it isn't affected by the super glue solvent. Titebond wiped off carefully is also clean, and a damp cloth used to wipe off wood glue usually isn't a problem for any kind of instrument finish.

I think a really accurate clamping job is the key for a good repair - it's a one-time deal.

mongo2 · #10 03-18-2010, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

Mongo, that's good to hear. I had reservations about the long-term adhesion/durability of super glue on wood repairs, but before sending this response, I did some quick homework online. Couldn't find anything indicating problems with long-term adhesion of super glue on wood. I learned something as a result of your comment!

Cool.

If it helps, my son has been playing that acoustic with the superglued headstock for about 8 years.

GeneralElectric · #11 03-18-2010, 03:32 PM

I'll be posting a picture tonight guys. I'm headed to my friends house after a wake to borrow his camera.

R. Laevinus · #12 03-22-2010, 07:16 PM

...I would also be more inclined towards wood glue, but hey, if superglue works, why not? I've never used it myself though, so I'd be cautious.

As per the clamping - I'd reccomend a strap-type clamp, to be sure to get the right pressure on the right spots at the right angles.

GeneralElectric · #13 03-29-2010, 10:10 PM

This took me awhile to do. The two pieces that came out of the neck are put next to a quarter for reference. They both come from the back of the neck. The missing piece of fretboard is mashed sideways almost into the larger splinter. Sorry I'm a terrible photographer.

RMay · #14 03-30-2010, 01:13 AM

Super glue (CA) is good for tiny cracks that don't need to be aligned during the gluing process. Super glue sets too quickly that I wouldn't recommend for this situation unless you feel that you're a seasoned pro at using this glue. Titebond has a high water content causes swelling. The swelling goes away after the glue dries and the moisture has evaporated. Titebond cleans up easily with warm water. Epoxy is great for joining pieces of wood layed into cracks, but it can be messy and tricky not for the novice. Fresh hide glue is not for the novice, like Titebond, it is thin enough to work easily into the wood, but you must work fast as hot hide glue sets into a gel quickly as it cools. This type of hide glue is mixed fresh from dry granules and requires an electric glue pot. IMO Titebond is the best all-around repair glue for the novice because it allows the the most working time before it sets. It is not as tricky as epoxy.
Clean the wound remove any crud even the tiniest particles will prevent the splinters from closing tightly. Apply the glue using a tool ( toothpick, dental pick, needle, etc.) good enough to move the glue into the tiniest crack.
Tape clamping will be sufficient after the pieces in place. Apply blue masking tape at a right angle to the cracks length by pressing with your thumb a few inches on both sides of the crack without actually pressing the tape to the crack. Use as many pieces across the cracks as necessary with good pressure. Let the glue dry for as least 12 hrs.
When the glue has dried, gently peel the tape off at an angle. Be careful removing the tape since it is possible to remove tiny pieces of the finish on the older instruments. Use an x-acto knife or your fingernail to pick off any dry glue beads. Buff the area with a soft cloth and follow with a good polish. Good luck and try to have fun doing this repair. IMO best practice with a scrap of wood so when you are ready for the real job you perform with confidence.
Edit: Afterward you can use maple wood dust to mix with CA glue to fill any remaining holes.

GeneralElectric · #15 05-05-2010, 07:15 AM

Well I bought some titebond and some masking tape. I poured the whole thing over with wood glue and then fitted everything. After wiping away the excess with a damp paper towel, I used the masking tape to hold everything in place. I did notice a slight bit of swelling, or maybe the interior splinters weren't perfectly lined up, but after a light sanding, the repair is flawless and smooth to the touch. I do have a small crack in the front on the fretboard where the wood got pushed. Going to see what I can do to fill it!

Pilgrim · #16 05-05-2010, 12:01 PM

If the wood got pushed in, try moisture and heat (like a damp cloth heated by the tip of an iron) - as long as the wood fibers are still there but compressed, you can get them to expand to some degree. I'd try moisture and heat two or three times before filling...you might be surprised how well the gap re-fills itself.

Bevo1995 · #17 05-05-2010, 02:36 PM

Got pics of the repair? I'd love to see how it turned out.