Heel Truss Rod Adjustment, NO ROUTE...HELP

Lorenzini · #1 06-30-2007, 11:02 AM

Got a jazz bass with the neck heel truss rod adjustment...
...problem is, there's no route!

So I have to unscrew the neck, which takes all the tension off of the neck, and then adjust the truss rod. By the time I put the neck back on and tune up, the neck hasn't held its position and I have to wait another day before I can do a half-turn!

In other words, I make an adjustment, but by the time I put the neck back on and tune the strings to pitch, the truss rod adjustment is worthless.

I'm certain that if there was a route, I could adjust the neck with the strings on and it would hold... Do I need to "assist" bending the neck straight while doing the truss adjustment?

Any help would be appreciated. This is really annoying.

BassAvenger1 · #2 06-30-2007, 11:17 AM

i have a greg bennet jazz bass and there was a slot for an alan wrench up by the nut. if you have to take the neck off of your entire bass....thats a tricky situation. it might just be better to take it to a music shop and find someone with a lot of experience at this kind of thing.

202dy · #3 06-30-2007, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lorenzini

Got a jazz bass with the neck heel truss rod adjustment...
...problem is, there's no route!

So I have to unscrew the neck, which takes all the tension off of the neck, and then adjust the truss rod. By the time I put the neck back on and tune up, the neck hasn't held its position and I have to wait another day before I can do a half-turn!

In other words, I make an adjustment, but by the time I put the neck back on and tune the strings to pitch, the truss rod adjustment is worthless.

I'm certain that if there was a route, I could adjust the neck with the strings on and it would hold... Do I need to "assist" bending the neck straight while doing the truss adjustment?

Any help would be appreciated. This is really annoying.

This is the original Leo Fender design. Obviously you have found one of the flaws.

Slack tune the strings. They should not be loose, just enough to move the neck. Loosen the bolts a bit. Tilt the neck so as to gain purchase on the adjustment nut. Adjust. Reverse the process.

Until the neck relief is correct the the protocol is:

Lather. Rinse. Repeat.

It is a myth that the neck need settle for a day or two. It is true that it may (or may not) move after the adjustments are made. If it moves, readjust it. Learning to deal with change is a sign of maturity.

It is also a myth that the rod can only be turned (fill in the blank: 1/8, 1/4, 1/2) turn per day. Nothing bad will happen if the rod is adjusted more than one half turn per day. If the rod is not moving the neck, turn the rod some more.

If the rod is not holding adjustments, that is another issue.

The neck, under normal circumstances, should not require "help" to adjust the relief.

You are correct that if there were a rout to permit access to the adjustment nut that the process would be easier. However, it has absolutely no effect on the truss rod holding the neck to proper relief.

If it is an inexpensive bass you may consider installing the rout. If you do not have the tooling or experience a pro would be happy to perform the service for you. Otherwise congratulations on owning a J of original design .

brandonwong · #4 06-30-2007, 12:21 PM

That is why i always prefer the bullet nut fender necks necks.
Adjustments is a breeze, plus the microtilt concept is a real saver.
Many said the 3 bolt design is the least stable but i haven't found any problems yet.

Preference aside.. all the best to get the neck setup to your liking

Zooberwerx · #5 06-30-2007, 02:21 PM

I'll assume there's no cutout in the pickguard (if any) where it butts up against the neck heel? I've seen a couple of jazz copies with solid pickguards which, when removed, had recesses underneath.

No reason you couldn't take a Dremel tool with a coarse sanding drum and make one of your own. It wouldn't have to be perfect as it would be hidden by the pickguard. Removing the neck is a PIA. I like to adjust a truss rod with strings up to tension.

Riis

GlennW · #6 06-30-2007, 02:53 PM

That's one thing I hated about Fender Strats - love my Peavey Predators.

Megalomania · #7 06-30-2007, 07:58 PM

If you aren't too attatched to the look of the bass or the body, consider taking a round file and filing down the area in front of the adjuster on the body. It will allow you to gain access to the truss rod adjuster with minimal hassle.

Lorenzini · #8 07-01-2007, 12:04 AM

Thanks for the super tips!
Wow cleared up a lot of false data I had on the subject of truss rod adjustment.
Well, I did what you said and am getting closer and closer to the final product!

PilbaraBass · #9 07-01-2007, 12:42 AM

I have one like this...but I put it together myself...so I can do what I wish...

what I plan on doing with it, once I regain posession of it (it's in America, STILL...) is to rout a cavity at the body...

I will leave the pickguard in tact...that way I can adjust the TR by removing the pickguard...and then when satisfied, simply return the guard...

Baleen · #10 07-01-2007, 06:38 AM

I used a Dremel to cut a slot, but I think the preferred tool would've been a router. That said the Dremel worked for me. I did it to two P's and a J after having to adjust them all this past spring.
Routing Body For Vintage-Style Fender Heel-Adjust Truss Rod

I eventually stained and overcoated the bare wood in the slots.

Lorenzini · #11 07-01-2007, 09:52 AM

So many good comments. This should be sticky'd.
As a result, my bass is pretty much where it needs to be.

Zooberwerx · #12 07-01-2007, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lorenzini

So many good comments. This should be sticky'd.
As a result, my bass is pretty much where it needs to be.

Hey, we get it right once in a great while!

Good luck with the project and hope it saves you some aggravation.

Riis